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Decided to sell my 1964 Riviera project.  I bought the car with the intention of teaching myself how to do body and paint work.  I've come to realize there are probably better cars to do that with that have a better aftermarket industry ie: GM f-body cars for example.

 

So, here is complete, all original 1964 Riviera in Desert Beige with Fawn cloth & vinyl seats.  I bought the car in non-running condition.  I pulled the interior and the motor and that is where the project is currently at.  I've bagged and labeled parts and took numerous pictures (jump drive of pictures to be included).  I pulled the rear drums off the car.  Car will need a new windshield (I don't know what hit it).  The car will need some floor pans replaced and some trunk pan sections replaced.

 

The 425 motor is somewhat stuck.  The dizzy and cam are loose and wiggle.  My guess is the rings are lightly stuck to the cylinder walls.  The homemade engine dolly is included in the sale.

 

According to the stamping on the rear diff, it contains a posi-unit.  (it's the one thing I forgot to take a picture of)

 

Mast for the power antenna is missing (was not on the car when I bought it)

 

Other factory and dealer options on the car include:

EZ glass all around

Power windows

4 way power drivers seat

Remote mirror

Seat belts

Buick compass

Dual bugle horns

Trailer hitch

 

Also included in the sale are the original owners manual and warranty booklet with the Buick Guard-A-Plate.

 

Also included are some original used floor and trunk pans from California.  

I have the means (bobcat) to push the car onto your trailer.  (the car/wheel dollies are not included in the sale)

 

Clear Wisconsin title in my name, in my hand.

 

$4500 or best offer.  Car is located ~15 miles south of Madison wi.

 

Please let me know if you have any questions.

 

Thanks,

David

 

car.thumb.jpg.783248afbbd0a7bffe9880f3d2f25f85.jpgcar1.jpg.6e2ee37b0309ee7cf3a47741ba2e7f25.jpgenginebay.thumb.jpg.73158559bc01e25000b3ac5f603f8d27.jpgparts1.thumb.jpg.b9c86a25fdf1b98a49c5fc47fb4946ee.jpg

1906205869_enginestamp.thumb.jpg.03a2fb40dda5c64d7d79f34712ab0297.jpg324148373_idtag.thumb.jpg.fc7110970421c8788a86ddb87a61e368.jpgbook1.thumb.jpg.15006a97bd8aafdf23561e0d13327e80.jpgbook2.thumb.jpg.4585fa26d45aca754eacc3e8ce76bc35.jpgCalifloorpans.thumb.jpg.3fbf7adbdef96a05eec48125ade58805.jpgengine.thumb.jpg.6cb29b0d66b2a62b1c1048efa3fc55f4.jpg1749319671_timingchain.thumb.jpg.01a7e32169e76a5c12c129ddc3bba14e.jpginterior.jpg.cfce880daa33693a0ac9207e0d2f6102.jpgtrans.thumb.jpg.1a148f7667da415272f6fea4e66dc397.jpgtransid.thumb.jpg.c6d329459ec2e5cca91baf67ea207171.jpg188702715_trimtag.thumb.jpg.39d8b68223b0c616b583b8406b1a7551.jpgexhaustdriveshaft.thumb.jpg.d1283986a3872c9e839b04af550ec47b.jpgfloor.thumb.jpg.7accb674919526b647f58e30986a65a5.jpgdualhorns.thumb.jpg.98097becb646eb99e67990eeb8369674.jpg557454259_frontseats.thumb.jpg.45a552a46ae1b86a0bfe334857622eba.jpg619575407_blockstamp.thumb.jpg.5aa47a16d68825f31e73ec005812573e.jpg

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OK, so what does anyone think is a realistic asking price for the car?

 

If anyone wants a specific picture of anything, just ask.

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HI David, Everybody has their own set of eyes. My eyes:

I see a set of four note horns worth maybe 3-500 if they are working and the harness is intact

Other than that  you are selling a project that needs:

 

Engine gone thru 2500

Transmission gone thru  1000

Extensive sheet metal work 1000

Paint    3000

Interior  2500

Exhaust 800

Brakes/lines  600

Add another 2000-3000 tires, sandblasting, recore radiator and a shitload of surprises and other stuff needed for peace of mind

 

Still have brightwork to consider...

 

This a very minimal conservative estimate doing the bulk of labor myself

 

That's 13500 plus your 4500 plus shipping ( to me) 1000...

 

18500 and much effort.

 

I can buy a nice car with no rust issues and be driving it in two weeks for less $$$ than that ( and it will have a few surprises, too)

 

Your car is worth the sum of it's parts, which mostly need to be replaced or repaired and rechromed.

 

You need someone that's been dreaming of the excitement of rebuilding a car. They're out there.

 

Your car 2020 Collector car Price Guide:

 

#6 (may or may not be running, but is weathered wrecked and or stripped to being used primarily for parts)= 1560

 

Sincerely, Steve

 

PS I am envious of your workshop

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RivCat,

 

Sorry to say I would have to agree with Gungeey,  It maybe better to part out, but that takes time and more work on your part to disassemble things.  But again this is only an opinion, and everyone has one.(sometimes too many)😁

 

Art

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David, A running car is key. A scaled down restoration could be tackled in smaller portions while keeping it drivable. I'm seeing more 'patina cars' out there. I imagine this is not new advise to you but I am re-learning from past projects myself. For me, this hobby is low priority and is the reason it's taking so long. 
 

This '64 Riviera is too nice to part out, the hobby needs more survivors! But Steve is correct, value being the sum of it's parts.

In 2016, I was alarmed how many 1st Gen Rivieras were being parted-out here in western Canada. Probably no longer in existence now.

 

 

John B.

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I think it just depends if you want invest $20 -25 K or more  over 2-3 years and have a $20 K car or buy one now that’s ready to go for the same price and do minor tweaking while you drive and enjoy . If you happen to be one of those talented  guys that can do it all and need a project, then go for it. Personally, I would part it out ( after doing a couple of frame offs and spending twice as much as projected) . Good luck with a  tough decision that most of us have faced in the past. 

KReed

ROA 14549

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I agree also, either you finish it yourself or it is a parts car.  No one will buy it to have to figure how to put it back together and spend the money to do it.  The horns and the GS wheel are worth some money!

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Photos show lots of rust. But there has to be more rust you can't see until you start attacking & chopping sheet metal.

Unless it has some sort of sentimental history, I also agree that its a parts car.

Has anyone done a full resto and not spent way more than your original budget? 

Tom K

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If you part the car out you will be lucky to gross in the range of $3,000. That would take a period of 2 years to move it all. If you go with Ebay for the shipable stuff it will cost 30% when you figure in fees and shipping supplies. And there will be the work involved with disassembly and packaging. In the end you will have $2,000 in your hand.  Skip the extra work. You can get the $2,000 quicker.

 

On 8/27/2020 at 5:16 PM, RivCat said:

I bought the car with the intention of teaching myself how to do body and paint work. 

 You didn't learn body work but you did learn something that will be of value in the future. Because of what you learned I bet that F-body will be a lot nicer car.

Bernie

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8 hours ago, TKRIV said:

Photos show lots of rust. But there has to be more rust you can't see until you start attacking & chopping sheet metal.

Unless it has some sort of sentimental history, I also agree that its a parts car.

Has anyone done a full resto and not spent way more than your original budget? 

Tom K

You go in without a budget. That way you never go over.  You don't keep track of expenses either. That way when it's time to sell it you're not thinking about losing money.

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21 hours ago, telriv said:

Too bad it's ALL apart. IF it were in one so called piece & ran, even poorly, it would probably be worth the $4500.00,

totally agree, a running together car is worth loads more than the same car taken apart.  At this point you would be better to continue the work, or bail at a next to nothing price. (except for the wheel and the horn set!!!

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In the day when it was new, cars without a/c were pretty common. But now it seems that a/c is pretty common and pretty much desirable on any car.  Without a/c your car will be that much harder to find a buyer for it. 

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On 9/1/2020 at 11:58 AM, RivNut said:

You go in without a budget. That way you never go over.  You don't keep track of expenses either. That way when it's time to sell it you're not thinking about losing money.

And don't leave your receipts where your wife can find them. 

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On 8/30/2020 at 6:51 PM, RivCat said:

Thanks everyone for all the input.  Guess I might have to look harder at the idea of possibly parting it out.    

David,

Just a few words of wisdom when it comes to parting a car.  It should be done with the majority of your goal to do as a hobby and to help other Riv enthusiasts get their cars on the road and maybe make a little extra cash. Removing parts, taking photo's providing accurate descriptions, posting advertising, packing and calculating shipping then shipping can be a challenge if you have other commitments in life. You'll sell a hand full of higher demand parts fairly quick but the largest portion could take years to sell all the while the carcass is sitting around taking up space. Once the in-demand parts are gone it becomes much more difficult to sell the whole car should you decide to part way through the process. So give it some thought. If you sell whole now for a price less than the parts are worth, you might still end up ahead. Just depends what your goal is and how much spare time you have to dedicate to parting it.

Those 4 notes, wood wheel and horn bar would be the first to sell!

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5 hours ago, JZRIV said:

David,

Just a few words of wisdom when it comes to parting a car.  It should be done with the majority of your goal to do as a hobby and to help other Riv enthusiasts get their cars on the road and maybe make a little extra cash. Removing parts, taking photo's providing accurate descriptions, posting advertising, packing and calculating shipping then shipping can be a challenge if you have other commitments in life. You'll sell a hand full of higher demand parts fairly quick but the largest portion could take years to sell all the while the carcass is sitting around taking up space. Once the in-demand parts are gone it becomes much more difficult to sell the whole car should you decide to part way through the process. So give it some thought. If you sell whole now for a price less than the parts are worth, you might still end up ahead. Just depends what your goal is and how much spare time you have to dedicate to parting it.

Those 4 notes, wood wheel and horn bar would be the first to sell!

 

If I were to part out the trumpet horns, does including the wire harness and the battery junction block that the horns plug into add any value?

I tested both horns and they both blow.

 

I would assume the two standard horns up by the grill are of no value?  Thinking about hooking them up under the hood of my snowmobile, could provide some some fun on the trail ;)

 

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Just now, RivCat said:

 

If I were to part out the trumpet horns, does including the wire harness and the battery junction block that the horns plug into add any value?

I tested both horns and they both blow.

 

I would assume the two standard horns up by the grill are of no value?  Thinking about hooking them up under the hood of my snowmobile, could provide some some fun on the trail ;)

 

forgot pictures

hornoverview.thumb.jpg.fe81a6ea024a6c6a45d800f13691a3c4.jpghorns1.thumb.jpg.9bfadc866c05390cc1364d99fe94350b.jpghornwirejunction.thumb.jpg.505859811756512127e7a1f8cbb9a27a.jpg

 

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Generally speaking, obviously the entire setup is more valuable.

 

If i were buying to add this option to my car, i would want to buy the trumpets with the wiring. If i was just looking for replacment trumpets, the wiring would not be of much value to me.

 

I think most folks in the market for this item would be looking to add this to their car, so likely they would be interested in both the trumpets and wiring harness. I dont think there would be much interest in the two standard horns.

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Depending on the year, there were different notes for each horn.  Do a detailed search of the ROA website and you can find an article on how to repair horns and the pitch of each horn for each year. 🙂 

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