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Ron’s 1928 DB Senior Phaeton


Mattml430
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  • 1 month later...
  • 1 month later...
Posted (edited)

Ron’s been busy making parts again. 👍👌

 

New crank hole cover for Terry 
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Making wind screen post rubber gasket for a D B 2249 Senior Phaeton,( Tourer in Ozz)
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Edges chamfered 

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Bottom of block ground to shape of the cowl ACC98D0C-5C9E-4CCC-9935-1B1C6931DCE4.jpeg.8a8e9b2be6d927c5a0293426ba9fc323.jpeg
All of this was done on this gizzmoE5D50296-948B-4AAF-A506-17D7D89E7C15.jpeg.5ef6b95d68cd7d203da6d5824d59fee2.jpeg

All finished Now to Post them off the Anthony akka gundog 
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I experimented with recessing the second one by using the milling machine Worked great much more control over the Dremil 
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Hole cut with hole saw marked and recessed with a Dremil 
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Edited by Mattml430 (see edit history)
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8 hours ago, gundog99 said:

Fantastic. If you have the time would you make me a crank hole cover?

Will not be able to for a while as I have heaps on my plate to do Terry's cover and your posts have been on the back burner for ages and I had to get them out of the way so that I can concentrate on the Senior windscreen frame I find it a distraction when I have made a commitment to do something for someone and 3 months later it's still not done Don't fret mate some times a miracle can happen 

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  • 3 weeks later...

Ron’s been busy in his shed all weekend. 
The start of the side plate Have to wait for a sheet metal punch to arrive from Flea Bay so I can put holes in it Going to start on the outside part tomorrow 6233D796-06DB-4D4A-AB81-83EFCDFA8CAD.jpeg.9573ec372b11fac98c0c748d6ef87e77.jpeg

This is the former that I made I decided against using the Genny Being brass I was worried about stretching and ending up with a wonky panel 3805DA04-A596-4BBE-B73A-D7C02502317C.jpeg.f4cf8c1a7cf2bf70565a62f62ab5a824.jpegDBC7ED04-82DC-4586-AA01-1BC2646748CE.jpeg.9c07fbff6efcb656e95381f9167fa7e2.jpegF2137ACF-01DA-424E-B05B-0715FFC9DF44.jpeg.a75b66f6216c6e47774ef109ca1bc3cd.jpegC43A58FA-F86B-465A-9CE6-D9DD10E62653.jpeg.68924bc7455afddddb0032ac6bcc2881.jpeg

Still got the other end to solder up. 

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I was thinking of making the flat intersection in brass  or copper and separating it from the original steel outer section  with a thin gasket. Is this a workable option? 

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I don't think so Anthony I am going to thoroughly clean both surfaces Tin them with solder then sweat the two together I am hoping that the sweat seals the joint as my concern is that it may leak around the screw holes One suggestion that was made to me was to just put a flat plate on the engine but as you can see it is designed to take cold water from the water pump to the rear cylinders  

I should have it ready to solder up by the end of the day but I won't be able to complete the job until the hole punch arrives later next week  We will keep you posted on how it goes 

 

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The outside section is now ready for tinning with solder 0091A3AC-381B-42A0-9405-C4EA2CE0356C.jpeg.e7415d57f9d4cf038f353af8e65ea08d.jpeg
Made up these bits to support the oil filter The original has pressings in the plate I wasn't prepared to take the risk of stuffing up my work so I have made these Theyou will be soldered on when I D84863E4-C954-4C1C-BB63-39D8E8CF9765.jpeg.78d82eed3fa82acc8273ecc9b8dcfad7.jpeg

The base all drilled Waiting for the punch to arrive B0B5F29C-A911-499B-AF68-A82DBA422664.jpeg.9898bc603fae6d4297db72f1c78ed0a9.jpeg

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Bit more from Ron’s shed today. 
 

Soldered on the oil filter gizmos and tinned the two surfaces that are to be soldered together Just wait on the punch now and it will be all go

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I am also concerned about leaks around the screw holes and a possible corrosion issue mixing Brass with steel. I can see how you made the intersection but how was the outer section made? A flat plate indeed ! it never ceases  to amaze me how many people fail to consider why a part was designed a certain way in the first place.

 

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I forgot if this is a six . Meyers has brass replacement for a DA6.

It was hard to see your fabrication. Be sure to offset face of jacket about 1/4”  from side of engine to assure water flow around the cylinders.

I placed thin copper washers. They were used originally.

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8 hours ago, gundog99 said:

I am also concerned about leaks around the screw holes and a possible corrosion issue mixing Brass with steel. I can see how you made the intersection but how was the outer section made? A flat plate indeed ! it never ceases  to amaze me how many people fail to consider why a part was designed a certain way in the first place.

 

I folded a piece of copper then cut it out for the ends ,bent them down into shape then silver soldered  them together 

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5 hours ago, stakeside said:

I forgot if this is a six . Meyers has brass replacement for a DA6.

It was hard to see your fabrication. Be sure to offset face of jacket about 1/4”  from side of engine to assure water flow around the cylinders.

I placed thin copper washers. They were used originally.

The DA 6 side plates are completely different to the Seniors If I could buy one I would have  This one being in Brass and Copper will out last me and the car 

 

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Ron’s been busy in his shed building the rollers for fabricating his windshield frame. 
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Six hours and all I end up with is a set of antlers 

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Getting more components made2FC8276E-D840-4007-AAA0-91FF92E6917F.jpeg.cfad297f64bb5b5b41925cefb38df7f3.jpeg

image.jpeg

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This is what happens in 24hrs when you stay up all night. 
Rons been busy until 11:30 last night. 
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looking fantastic Ron. 

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2 hours ago, nearchoclatetown said:

Matt, didn't the blueprint call for a fatman wheel? Just sayin'. 

Hahah you’ll need to check with Ron on that one Doug I’m just the picture posting messenger. 

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I made no progress on the roller today as I had a 150 mile round trip to pick up a SUV for my nephew and the I picked up a 135 Massey Fergy tractor equipt with a post hole auger  I have 7  6inch polls to stand up with about 12 feet out of the ground It is not an urgent job and I want to see some more rain to make the sand wetter so I wont have cave ins  Hopefully I will complete the roller tomorrow and give it a trial run with some half inch steel conduit Keep your eyes on here for some pictures  Doug I will get the skinny bloke to operate the steering wheel 

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Well I have got the rollers finished and just had to have a trial run before dinner I have put a slight curve in a sample piece of screen frame Apart from it wanting to kick to one side a bit I am very happy with the result Matt warned me that his tried the do the same when he made his frame 

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Can't wait to see the finished parts, Matt. Ron, when I was a kid I drilled lots of post holes with a Ford 8N. I got $.25 a hole. Lost my shirt drilling for a neighbor in a barn for new stalls. The ground was trampled so tight from lots of cattle hooves in drilled like concrete. Still have the tractor and post hole digger but neither have run for years.

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First up using the roller I found it to be too loose in the main shaft The size oh the bearings is 25mm and the shaft was 24 mm Had to machine up a couple of sleeves and also made the lower roller deeper The next trial run was much better 49B40167-2F83-4002-BDE6-82BFEF0726D0.jpeg.83b04a4da624d594d8c8cff08c4c48cf.jpeg23BFC01B-6D5C-41F3-8415-EA290355468C.jpeg.73b46e929cfd5d47817c5780f5680161.jpeg

 

The roller is doing the work that it was made for I have another hick up to sort out I am going to have to sort out the problem of the groove from closing

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After sorting out the problem with the T rubber slot from closing in while rolling the frame everything went well So relieved that it is what I set out to achieve 8779C8A3-BEEF-4FBE-BD3F-E4C109B16DD4.jpeg.095de7641bc702a75a64a6d198ae82d6.jpeg2499F10E-76E6-4717-A3CF-D23E81C8E587.jpeg.ad018d7d5d3e180f9139812e935d4195.jpeg

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The side plate is fitted temporary as it has yet to be painted Any one who has played with Holden Greys should be familiar with the remote oil gauge also put new packing in the water pump FC39B20F-C482-4AC6-A1B5-ADDB8752EBEA.jpeg.176d9d024e146f717dc13ee810a5ac0b.jpeg

I was surprised at the amount of scale that I found The cleaner that I used freed up the gunk and left it at the base of the chamber 

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image.jpeg

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What product did you use for the rust, Matt? Everyone here says Evaporust, but I have never tried it. I used white vinegar in one of my tractors. Filled the whole system and mowed grass for about 2 weeks before flushing. Really got the crud out and ran much cooler after.

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Doug that is what I used It cleaned well but there was a lot of flaking crap in the base of the water chamber Scraped most of it out then more scratching then water blasted it and after lunch when it had dried out I blew it out with air 

 

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I used Fernox Cleaner F3 used in central heating systems in the UK, then Thermocure; I think it is much the same as Evapo Rust rust, remover possibly a refined molasses liquid. I have a major problem flushing the system out, very hard mains water. I am still flushing out rust as brown water and flacks of iron by running the car filled with distilled water which I drain when hot and refill at regular intervals. Ron has confirmed my suspicion that  a lot of gunk still remains in the base of the water chamber.

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10 hours ago, gundog99 said:

I used Fernox Cleaner F3 used in central heating systems in the UK, then Thermocure; I think it is much the same as Evapo Rust rust, remover possibly a refined molasses liquid. I have a major problem flushing the system out, very hard mains water. I am still flushing out rust as brown water and flacks of iron by running the car filled with distilled water which I drain when hot and refill at regular intervals. Ron has confirmed my suspicion that  a lot of gunk still remains in the base of the water chamber.

Anthony It is not such a big job to remove the side plate to check your block for gunk I would also check to make sure that the impellor on the water pump is not spinning on the shaft  Are you reverse flushing the radiator when you flush it or are you just removing the lower hose and letting the water run out  I sincerely hope that you can find a solution to your overheating problem

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I took the water pump off to check the bronze impeller and everything is as it should be. I asked Matt how much extra advance he had added, I therefore  increase my setup by adding 4 deg; this  appears  to have cured the  overheating problem, however  the engine sounds a bit harsher but seems to be a bit more  powerful . May has been very cold, I will only know for certain when running the car in hot (for the UK) weather, if I have finally sorted out the problem.

I did reverse flush the cooling system a few times before fitting a new thermostat, but am now removing the lower hose before refilling with fresh water

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I have always added a "sock" to the top radiator hose when rebuilding an engine or cooling system to catch any of the bits of rust and gunk that seem to remain regardless of how well I think I have cleaned everything. I would hate to have anything clog up a nice clean radiator. There are a number of filters available as well, but I prefer the "sock" type that are made for the job because they are almost unnoticable in an old cooling system. The filter type look too modern for me (like phillip head screws!! )

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