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For John348 & Padgett...homemade tool solutions


lump

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I admire both of you guys. I find your posts interesting, and informed. So when I saw you two discussing difficulties in accessing spark plugs on the driver's bank of Chevy Monza V8 cars, I wanted to reply with my own experiences there. But yet I didn't want to hijack that thread. So here is this: 

 

My sister-in-law had a Monza Town Coupe with V8 engine decades ago, and brought it to me for a routine tune-up. I had no trouble until I got to the number 5 spark plug, and simply could not access it. I tried everything I could think of. Finally I had an idea. I took an old rusty Sparta brand 5/8" socket, and took it to my brother-in-law, who is a talented tool & die guy (a model maker for GM, back in the day). I had him to bore out the 3/8" drive hole so that a spark plug porcelain top would slide through it, and then cut a hex on the outside for a boxed-end wrench. The socket worked perfectly! I just slid it over the hex of the spark plug, and accessed the outside end of that 5/8" socket with a 19mm wrench, and backed the plug right out. 

 

I discovered that the used spark plug in the #5 cylinder was a different brand than all the other 7, and was obviously MUCH older (maybe OEM installed?) After changing the plugs that day, that Monza ran decidedly better...leading me to believe that mechanics had probably been skipping that hard-to-access spark plug for years! 

 

LOL. Just thought you guys might enjoy that one. I've included pix of the socket, which I still have. (I have never needed it again, but you never know....) 😜

 

This was my solution to that one problem. What tool modifications have other folks dreamed up to solve problems in auto repairs? 

Socket mod for V8 Monza spk plug 1 (1).JPG

Socket mod for V8 Monza spk plug 1 (2).JPG

Socket mod for V8 Monza spk plug 1 (3).JPG

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I believe the factory procedure involved removing the wheel, raising the engine up a couple inches, and going in thru the wheelwell.

 

Engineer who designed that setup ought to be beat about the head with all the tools involved in the job. No sense or good reason in designing things that turn a half-hour job into a half-day ordeal.

 

'Course they outdid themselves on alternator r&r on W-body cars with 3.4 engines. I wanted a Z34 Lumina till I saw what that job involved.

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Never removed a wheel, just could reach under, remove the two bolts , and use a small bottle jack to raise that side a bit.

If a tool like that had been around in the last century I would have bought one.

Heard at one time the H-body was never supposed to have a V-8 & steering was fine for a V-6 but...

Fiero 2.8 alternator also easy to remove rear wheel and part of the suspension...

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18 hours ago, lump said:

I took an old rusty Sparta brand 5/8" socket, and took it to my brother-in-law, who is a talented tool & die guy (a model maker for GM, back in the day). I had him to bore out the 3/8" drive hole so that a spark plug porcelain top would slide through it, and then cut a hex on the outside for a boxed-end wrench. The socket worked perfectly! I just slid it over the hex of the spark plug, and accessed the outside end of that 5/8" socket with a 19mm wrench, and backed the plug right out. 

 

😜

 

 

That was an EXTREMELY good idea. As someone who often does things the hard way, I really appreciate clever tools and that is one of the best I've ever seen.

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I put a Ford 289 in an Austin Healy 3000. The last plug on each side was almost impossible to get a wrench on. We cut the sheet metal in about a 4 inch square on each side and fastened it with 4 sheet metal screws. Problem solved. 
 

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On 8/18/2020 at 11:06 PM, lump said:

I admire both of you guys. I find your posts interesting, and informed. So when I saw you two discussing difficulties in accessing spark plugs on the driver's bank of Chevy Monza V8 cars, I wanted to reply with my own experiences there. But yet I didn't want to hijack that thread. So here is this: 

 

My sister-in-law had a Monza Town Coupe with V8 engine decades ago, and brought it to me for a routine tune-up. I had no trouble until I got to the number 5 spark plug, and simply could not access it. I tried everything I could think of. Finally I had an idea. I took an old rusty Sparta brand 5/8" socket, and took it to my brother-in-law, who is a talented tool & die guy (a model maker for GM, back in the day). I had him to bore out the 3/8" drive hole so that a spark plug porcelain top would slide through it, and then cut a hex on the outside for a boxed-end wrench. The socket worked perfectly! I just slid it over the hex of the spark plug, and accessed the outside end of that 5/8" socket with a 19mm wrench, and backed the plug right out. 

 

I discovered that the used spark plug in the #5 cylinder was a different brand than all the other 7, and was obviously MUCH older (maybe OEM installed?) After changing the plugs that day, that Monza ran decidedly better...leading me to believe that mechanics had probably been skipping that hard-to-access spark plug for years! 

 

LOL. Just thought you guys might enjoy that one. I've included pix of the socket, which I still have. (I have never needed it again, but you never know....) 😜

 

This was my solution to that one problem. What tool modifications have other folks dreamed up to solve problems in auto repairs? 

Socket mod for V8 Monza spk plug 1 (1).JPG

Socket mod for V8 Monza spk plug 1 (2).JPG

Socket mod for V8 Monza spk plug 1 (3).JPG

 

That was a great thinking. I myself had a tough time just getting the my hand between things to pull the sparkplug boot off the plug. The heat shields around the manifold were like razors. I thought it was #3 cylinder but either way it was a PITA job and the beginning of non serviceable parts on car leading to their obsolescence

 

On 8/18/2020 at 11:45 PM, padgett said:

Never removed a wheel, just could reach under, remove the two bolts 

 

I am confused by your response, removing a wheel and tire would be of no help, they were uni-body and the inner wheel house is part of the body assembly giving no access to the engine bay.

 

On 8/18/2020 at 11:45 PM, padgett said:

Heard at one time the H-body was never supposed to have a V-8 & steering was fine for a V-6 but...

 

Very true, General motors paid NSU $50 million dollars to license the Wankel Rotary Engine. This was under the direction of Ed Cole. Trying to salvage the H Body reputation with the Wankel. With gas crisis in full bore and the Wankel not performing as anticipated the plan was suspended, and the Chevy V-8 was used. The first Monza's in 1975 have a much higher drive line tunnel to accommodate the higher rotary engine center line, that was revamped in the 76 production and lowered. Here is a photo of the proposed rotary emblem that was going to be used.  The V-8 Monza is pretty much a point and shoot car very nose heavy, I am far from a racer, but it is noticeable especially compared to other H body cars. I had a Cosworth Vega,  Buick Skyhawk (V-6) and the Monza Mirage at the same time. The first V-8 Monza's had a 262 cu V-8, why that I have no idea considering that they went to the 305 which was being used across the brand. The 350 was a California only engine recommended for high altitude.

 Thanks Lump for posting the tool.

 

$(KGrHqYOKpsE0VI84yu4BNZ!7Sehf!___12.jpg

Edited by John348 (see edit history)
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A long time ago, in a galaxy far far away - - - - -. We had a 1972 Chrysler station wagon with the huge V8. Definitely a love/hate vehicle, big, comfortable, powerful. Worst handling car I ever owned, and several horrible servicing issues. Soon after getting it (used), I serviced it. One of the rear spark plugs was behind the steering gear. Six of them, I could change all in half an hour. One of them, took a half hour for just the one. The one behind the steering gear? Three hours! Like a previous post, I don't think that one had ever been changed. I suffered through it, and figured "NEVER AGAIN and went on about my business. About a year later, on the longest trip we ever took it on, on what turned out to be the hottest day of the year (108 for nearly two hundred miles!), the thermostat FAILED! Silly bad design, the thermostat failed closed, but bypassed enough coolant to cool the front half of the motor (only). Guess where the idiot light sensor was located. With the cool part at the front of the motor. The rear cylinders got hot enough to collapse the rings. Oil fouled the plugs. 

I made a very similar short socket that I could barely slip in and put an end wrench on to loosen the plug. I probably changed/cleaned that plug a dozen times before I sold the car for cheap. The fellow that bought it wrecked it a couple weeks later. It WAS a beautiful car.

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