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1931 UF-10 Rear Axle / Differential Rebuild


Henry Boler

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Hi All,

 

The next stage of the rebuild is underway now, that is the rear axle.

 

I sandblasted the whole unit with the wheels still attached as I couldn't get the wheels off to begin with. Masked everything up that I didn't want to get sand in so all seemed well until I actually did the job. Turns out the right hand side torque tube near the differential on the front side has some nasty corrosion, odd because there is none at all on the left side, would this be exhaust related?

 

Anyway, I blew some holes in the casing with the sand and thus presumably got sand in the differential which means the only option now was to fully disassemble the whole thing for a total clean up. I intend on having the corrosion brazed up which shouldn't be a problem. I'll attach some images just to give you an idea. Note the axle is all black because it now has a rust proof coating on it. It was silver after the sand blasting.

 

Having stripped this thing down completely now, I will start going through each part one by one cleaning and assessing etc. Some issues already standing out for me are what gasket material should be used on the axle end caps and pinion cap and what thickness? Seems that my end caps have thick rubber gaskets on them which mean the bolts were not very tight and I'm not sure how they would have been holding the bearings in place. Also, presumably the axle could have fallen out if those bolts did shake loose...?

 

Any other tips info or any guidance with the rebuild would be much appreciated. I have rebuilt differentials before and I think I'm happy with the setup side of things with the gears etc. Just want to make sure it is all correct.

 

Cheers,

 

Henry

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On 8/12/2020 at 7:10 PM, keiser31 said:

If you were not so darned far away I would send you the extra Chrysler CM6 differential housing. It looks the same as the item you show.

 

Shame. Thanks anyway!

 

As it happens, all is not lost. The holes are quite focussed which means there is good metal around them. Turns out this metal mig welds very nicely and I now have no holes anymore!

 

I do however, need to replace all the bearings as they are shot. Could do with a new gear set if I was really being picky as it looks like the thing has sat a long time with some teeth out of the oil drying out and rusting... I'm guessing I'll have to live with that though. I measured up the four outer axle bearings and it looks like I can still buy the same ones from Timken now, is this the recommended route? I'm yet to pull the other four.

 

Henry

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