Let's get to work

[Plumbinguy]

Check engine light, sometimes on, sometimes not. Been running shell V-Tec fuel since purchased, seems to have helped. Also seems to be more active the higher the ambient temperature. 90 degrees or higher it'll come right on. Below it may not come on at all. The question is what do I need to test the engine computer, and where do I get it?

[Hemi Dude]

35 minutes ago, Plumbinguy said:

Check engine light, sometimes on, sometimes not. Also seems to be more active the higher the ambient temperature. 90 degrees or higher it'll come right on. Below it may not come on at all. The question is what do I need to test the engine computer, and where do I get it?

 

You are familiar with the check engine lamp in the left side of the instrument cluster.

With a pen and paper handy, turn ignition key on, off, on, off, on. Record all the blinks of the 'check engine lamp'.   The code numbers will be between11 and 55, so for example if you get 2 blinks and then 3 blinks with a short pause between them, that would be 23.  

Run & record the test through to 55 which means end of test.

Do it a couple of times to verify your readings. Then let us know what you got.

[Plumbinguy]

First thing in the morning. Cars at my off site garage, but I'll let you know the results asap. And thanks again.

[Plumbinguy]

Hey Hemi Dude, as you instructed, I ran the codes. Only one showed up, #37. Barometric read selenoid circuit. Being serious about careing for the car, I purchased the service manual. It indicated the code, but briefly scanning the following pages, it didn't indicate what to do about it. I'm sure the information in there somewhere. I would want your opinion anyway.

[Plumbinguy]

Through a photo in there for those who appreciate mechanical art work.

[Reaper1]

OK, so I have been seeing this issue come up more and more this these Turbo MOPAR's over the years. There's a few things to check before replacing the part. #1, is the vacuum harness. Make sure it is good and no leaks, cracks, etc. and NO liquid in it! (if there is liquid, you need to find out what it is so you can correct the issue because that is going to make everything hard and can lead to very bad things happening) #2, make sure the other end of the baro solenoid is actually open! It does NOT connect to anything and from the factory they usually had a little filter on the end, but they disintegrate quickly. #3, make sure the electrical connection to the solenoid is good. The connector is just open spades in a plastic holder, so corrosion and such can cause issues. #4, make sure the little "S" tube that goes from the baro solenoid to the MAP is good and sealing. If all that checks out, bench test it just to make sure it isn't working, THEN replace it.

[Plumbinguy]

Thanx Reaper, I will do that, vaccum issue is scary because I've read issue after issue concerning the layout of the hoses. If all is correct now I'll be alright, Just make sure I keep track of what goes where. Thanx again. I'll let you guys know what I find.

[Plumbinguy]

Can I put a gauge on the system and check for leaks without tracing them all?

[Plumbinguy]

I did take note of a diagram somebody posted recently that should help.

[Hemi Dude]

5 minutes ago, Plumbinguy said:

I did take note of a diagram somebody posted recently that should help.

Glad you mentioned that, I was going to refer you to it.

[Plumbinguy]

Thanx Hemi Dude, don't know what I'd do without you guys!

[Hemi Dude]

Just let us know what you find. That MAP sensor code shows up a lot as Reaper wrote. Often it doesn’t mean that there is something wrong. 

You should clear the code, so that the next time you run the test, it won’t be there still. 

If you clear it, do a test that will verify that you have cleared it. 

You should get an 11 and/or 12 and not your current code 37 if it has been cleared.

Follow the instructions in the service manual to clear codes.