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1928 Buick questions - Bambino


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I'm a new member and new to this Forums.

I bought a 1928 Buick the wheel base is 116 so is it a Standard or Model 116 when ordering parts?

I also have water in Engine any help would be great.

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Welcome to the f rum.  I can't be of much help as I have so far skipped the 20's.  I have  a 1917 and then my 1932.  I am sure if you are specific and post photos,  That many people will offer their expertise.

 

Bob Engle

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Welcome to the Pre War Buick  forum.  Below this box it says "choose files".  You can get to your files and it will link photos into your posting. 

Most likely the problem is a head gasket failure if you have water in the oil.   Is it just a little condensation or milky?  Do a cylinder leak down test if you want to know where it is coming from.  You can buy a cylinder leak tester rather inexpensively.  Pressure up each cylinder on their Top Dead Center (The 1-6 line on the flywheel) and when the distributor rotor points to that plug firing.  If you see the pressure leaking off and hear air in the radiator, that would be the one.  

 

Plan B would be to pull the cylinder head and have it gone thru.  I personally like to diagnose a problem first though. 

 

The link attached is also a new Buick owners link just so you know a little more about your Buick.   

 

Using the term "Standard" for a "series 116 " is the same thing.  Buick made Masters and Standards.  The  term "Standard" refers to the  shorter wheelbase model around 116 inches.  Masters were "120 or 128" wheelbase.   Very few parts interchange between Masters and Standards.

 Hugh

 

https://forums.aaca.org/topic/340150-1923-23-45-hasnt-run-in-years-needs-who-knows-what/?tab=comments#comment-1996508

 

 

Edited by Hubert_25-25 (see edit history)
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One other comment on attaching photos, It's best to reduce the pixel count on your photos before posting them.  If they are left at hi res, you will be limited on the number of photos you can attach.  They transfer faster also.  

Hubert_25-25 left good advice on your water in the oil pan  problem.

 

Bob Engle

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12 hours ago, Bambino said:

Any advice on the water in oil pan?

The easiest fix is to first check the "freeze plugs" under the rectangular side plates.  They sometimes leak and allow water into the pan via the push rods.

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If you are only posting one photo, it can be hi resolution. Only when you try to post multiple photos on the same thread does it tell you the limit is 9 meg. One photo under 9 meg can be high res.

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Remove and replace rusted freeze plugs. Not a terribly difficult job and you can take the opportunity to clean your water jackets at the same time. Look it up on YouTube.

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2 hours ago, Bambino said:

Mark you called it wright. Both freeze plugs have rusted thru, Do I welded them or is there another way to fix?

Replace them.  Local auto supply stores carry multiple sizes.  

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Core plugs are the plugs for the holes in castings that allow the removal of molds that are inside the larger casting.  Common usage has been calling these freeze plugs for decades but many who have worked in real cold places realizes that the block may be cracked and all the plugs may still be in place.

Welcome to the world of improper usage, regional usage, slang usage of names/words.  A contributing factor is that different manufacturers even divisions of the same company often called the same parts by different names.  Sometimes the same part with the same casting numbers on it can be sold within the same Division of General Motors for $3.75 and $48.00 (u-joint for a Chevrolet or for a Corvette in the '50's).

welch plug.jpg

welch plug 2.jpg

core plug.jpg

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Nice car, is it original or restored?  I bought one exactly like it 2 years ago.  Black over dark green. It had been restored about 35 years ago but not drive much and then stored for about 30 years. It has taken me a while to get the bugs out of it but it is a good running car now.

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It's total original,

The original owners son told the story about his grandfather having the car then his dad.

It's been in storage for over 80 years in a conditioned garage.d bracket 

I really liked the car the day I got to see it.

Didn't know what all it needed however I brought it home.

Now I want to try and keep it as original as possible so I'm asking all kinds of questions.

The roof has to be replaced as it has a huge split down the middle.

Interior: Needs dome light back seat hand rail brackets other than that the seats are awesome I believe they called them more hair covering.

I'm seen some 1928 with natural wood wheel spokes, was that only on the fancier cars?

Thanks for all the help 

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Question Tinindian,

I didn't and hope not to have to pull the engine totally however I could only get to the 4 freeze plugs on the sides. after removing them I can see " lots " of rust particles, ( Small a large ones ) so can I vacuum them out or brake down and do a total engine over haul at this point.  I did get it started and running before I find water in oil pan. Your thoughts would be greatly appreciated.

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You have a nice car to work with. 

There are 6 core plugs in the cylinder area.  2 each side, one front and one back.  There is also 1 on the back side of the head.  Brass core plugs are better if you can find them, but steel are adequate.  Changing the front and back ones will be difficult.  Perhaps best to monitor these difficult ones and replace if going thru the engine.  Consider a Gano filter to protect the radiator from rust particles.  Clean out and flush the engine block.    

A Standard model would have body colored wheels with pinstriping on the wheels that matched the pinstriping on the car.  Yes, the more expensive Buicks had natural finish on the wheels.   Hugh

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Mohair fabric   https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mohair

 

I would do the ones that you can get to.  Leave the others for now.  I am not familiar with the one on the rear of your engine.  On some engines you can replace the rear one by removing the floor and toe boards.

You should also see if you can loosen the crud around the cylinders in the water jacket.  Sometimes an old screwdriver or a bent coat hanger helps

It is messy but if you can roll the car outside you could power wash the water jacket.  It would be thorough but messy.

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When I first got my 29-27 Buick, I found that someone  drilled a U pattern of small holes in the firewall under the dash to create a flap to replace the rear freeze plug.

You might try that instead of pulling the head or the whole engine as others have suggested.  I too recommend power washing the cooling jacket through the freeze holes.  Larry Schramm wrote a good article on this process.  I am sure he will chime in here too.

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I don't have a 1928 but here are a few pictures of my 1922 engine and freeze plug work.  I pressure washed the cylinder block and water jacket after removing all of the plugs and had it boiled out at the machinist. Then I installed new plugs before I painted the block in the Buick green.

cylinder block cleaning after machinist2.jpg

Freeze plugs installed2.jpg

cylinder block painted 3.jpg

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  • 4 weeks later...

Buy brass core plugs .   Check these guys out.  They have the right sizes.  I put a little Permatex c#2 on them before I put them in.  You can tap them in using a socket.

 

To get them out I tap on one side of the plug  with a punch or screw driver to get it to start to turn in the hole.  Then pull it out with channel locks.  Check the plug at the back of the head.  Buy enough to do all the core plugs.  You will need them. Buy am extra one or two in case you discover that you missed one or mess one up.  It is cheaper than postage

 

https://freezeplugfactory.com/about/   1 7/32 inch dis for Master.  I can not find the Standard size right now.  e-mail me if you need it.  fred,rawling@live.com

 

 

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