JSL

ABS, common burned fuse box and high cost of accumulator.

Recommended Posts

Dear New Friends,

 

Has any one tried to increase the diameter of the wire for the abs pump to allow for the constant draw from the pump to keep the vacuum up to spec ?

 

In order to avoid the common melted fuse box situation.

 

Since it appears to me that the T/C breaks as needed, with a weak accumulator,

and the real issue seams to be a wiring that did not account for a constant draw from the pump in order to do so.

 

I am asking since i think the price for a new accumulator is ridiculous compared to a few $$$ for some wire.

 

Let me know you thought, of course i discovered that half the fuse was melted a way and some of the fuse box

on my new T/C

 

 

About my self i am a new driver 50 miles on Black V 6 at 101566 miles on the Eastern Shore.

 

 

 

 

IMAG2978[1].jpg

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


Benefits of AACA Membership.

The other thing to consider here isn't just the wire gauge. It's the motor itself. It's not designed for constant running and will most likely overheat, especially if it is under constant load trying to keep the accumulator full. 30 amps continuous pull on a 12V system is pretty significant.

 

Before I would go through the trouble of upgrading the wire size, I'd rip the Teves out and do a vacuum brake conversion. Much easier, solves the problem forever.

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
13 hours ago, JSL said:

Dear New Friends,

 

Has any one tried to increase the diameter of the wire for the abs pump to allow for the constant draw from the pump to keep the vacuum up to spec ?

 

In order to avoid the common melted fuse box situation.

 

Since it appears to me that the T/C breaks as needed, with a weak accumulator,

and the real issue seams to be a wiring that did not account for a constant draw from the pump in order to do so.

 

I am asking since i think the price for a new accumulator is ridiculous compared to a few $$$ for some wire.

 

Let me know you thought, of course i discovered that half the fuse was melted a way and some of the fuse box

on my new T/C

 

 

About my self i am a new driver 50 miles on Black V 6 at 101566 miles on the Eastern Shore.

 

 

 

 

 

Try this link  https://www.allpar.com/fix/brakes/tc-brake-booster-replacement.html

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You may find this interesting, I clicked on the link I have put up, the one on converting to conventional brake system, I got the photo of the master cylinder which reminded me that I needed to order one. The one I installed some 20 years ago has developed the common problem they experience. So I went to RockAuto and ordered a new one. 
if you contemplate a conversion, you should do likewise soon, they are becoming extinct too. You need one for 4 wheel disc brakes! 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I could not locate a *new* booster a couple of years ago. I had to settle for a reman.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

That is better than the old USED one I installed, which still works perfectly. The new Master Cylinder I installed, not so much. A replacement should be here on Thursday.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I would be reluctant to buy the one as you can read on the unit that it is 1000 PSI.  I would bet that if you could read the marking on the other you would see that it also is 1000 PSI.. I you look at your factory accumulator you will see it read 2000 PSI.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
59 minutes ago, JSL said:

OK I guess I order one, DON'T

Which one should I go for? NEITHER

 

And BTW if the fuse melts is it for sure the accumulator? 

 

 

 

IF THE FUSE AND FUSEHOLDER BURNS/MELTS, it means that the pump is running much too frequently, like every time you step on the brake pedal AND that the pump may even be going BAD. What you absolutely need is a NEW Accumulator. The correct one for this car. OR you can convert the system. Sooner or later, almost everyone who wishes to continue driving these cars will have to convert. It is the ultimate "Fix".

5D9E1779-DEC2-43FD-A736-85B1F3CBC01D.thumb.jpeg.8448e4ca6bb89bbfbd95b4a99ffa2bb4.jpeg

 

 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I used the one in the first link. It's a Wabco accumulator. Worked perfectly and my pump no longer runs as frequently as it did. Before replacing the pump would run for 30 seconds every time I started the car, even after short trips, now it will really only run for 30 seconds after it's been sitting for a week or two. My 91 only had 46,000 actual miles but it was the original accumulator which only is only really designed to last 10 years. The pump running too much can be the accumulator as mentioned above, or possibly a pressure switch. Parts are still available for the Teves system, but hard to find and usually very pricey. Hemi's solution is a proven way to completely eliminate this ABS system for less than a 1/4 of what it would cost to have your Teves unit rebuilt. Another advantage of converting to a non-abs system is you can convert the rear brake calipers which seem to be unobtainable to more common rear disc brakes shared with many Chrysler products from this era (Lebaron, Daytona, Spirit...etc) which uses a separate parking brake mechanism, inside the brake rotor. 

Edited by Matthew Cody (see edit history)
  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks all together - great help,

But falls alarm from me...  What actually happens and I can't even believe still works to break the car.

After looking again wondering why I loose brake fluit I discovered that the link between the master and pump/motor assembly.

Is just sitting on each other spraieng a light mist of break fluid 😱

No wonder the pump keeps working.

Looking at the supposed connection it feels like there is a part missing !?

 

Could someone post a picture how the link suppose to look,  this really puzzles me. 

 

No question my t/c is grounded for now.

 

Any fix for this?  

 

I can separate the two with my finger,  don't think anything is holding them together nor do the parts seam to match.

 

 

IMAG3141.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now