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drhach

1965 GS transmission

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Hello, I just acquired a 1965 BS code transmission. Supposedly this was used on the GS 425 with dual quads.  I'm wondering if anyone can tell me if this differs in any meaningful way from any other 1965 transmission? What is unique that it is specifically coded to that car? 

 

Regards,

Dan 

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Benefits of AACA Membership.

The valve body is programmed to give firmer shifts at higher engine rpm's when you really put your right foot into it. Nothing more than you can't do with an aftermarket shift kit.

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Yes, that's what I understood from his post. Now to get it rebuilt and installed. 

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What year car is this trans. going into???

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Posted (edited)

Won't work. The 62 crankshaft has a flange designed to bolt to a Dynaflow flexplate. The 65 crankshaft has a flange designed to bolt to an ST400 flexplate.

 

Dynaflow

 

image.png.22d4858bc11cc1b30c76f4feeed9baf2.png

 

ST400

 

image.png.d2163f1e979a461d33ba3643c7af5360.png

 

Edited by RivNut (see edit history)

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Ed assumes you are using an original 62 Nailhead. So now we have to ask, what are you using for a motor. May work, may not.

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Posted (edited)

I know this is the Riviera forum, so I appreciate the willingness to diverge a little. 

 

Yes it is a 1962 engine in a 1962 car. My understanding is that if I use a bushing on the crank, the later (64-66) flexplate and transmission will mount up. That is not the case? Centerville Auto Repair has one they claim will facilitate this. 

 

http://centervilleautorepair.com/transadaptors

 

 


Regards,

Dan 

 

 

Edited by drhach (see edit history)

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The part ADTR-1 says it is for the application you want to do.  I think that there is a piece of the 63 crank that is a hub that is pressed into the back of the crank.  That needs to be removed and the ADTR-1 part pressed in in its place. The ADTR-1 makes the diameter of the hub smaller to fit the 65 flex pate. 

 

I would think that a qualified machine shop would be able to enlarge the hole in the 65 flex plate to the size of the existing hub and you could bolt it on.  Register on the V8Buick forum and post this question.  Those guys aren't into whole cars as much as they are engines and transmissions.  You are aware that your 63 starter will not work with a 65 flexplate. You'll need a starter with a shorter nose.  One thing that I'm not sure of is "when did Buick switch from a torque tube to an open dive line." You'll want to confirm that before anything. 

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Thanks Rivnut. I'm registered on every Buick forum I can find :). I figured since it was from a GS Riv, I'd ask about the specifics of the transmission here. No torque tube in 1962 (I think 1960 was actually the last year for torque tubes). I got the guy to throw in the correct starter when I bought the trans. I've tried to do as much homework as I can. 

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So, I'm confused. I purchased Russ Martin's Hub Adapter and the Flexplate (pictured) a while back. I now see there are 2 versions of this flexplate. Do I need both, the hub adapter and Flexplate for my 1963 Dynaflow swap to 1965 ST400? Or, just Russ's flexplate with the large hole?

 

John B.

image.png.16fc20bd11e5632e130823e5352ecf9a.png

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I think the part number BU10006 is what I was referring to as something a "qualified machine shop" could do to an OE 64-66 flexplate - enlarge the center hole to fit over the larger crank flange of the 59-63 401s (Dynaflow) crank.  The starter ring on a Dynaflow is welded to the torque converter.

 

You only need one or the other - the hub which you have or the custom flexplate.  The flexplate eliminates the machine work of doing an r&r on the hub.  Maybe more expensive but a lot easier.

 

Have you thought about how you're going to hook up the kick down/ variable pitch?  The Dynaflow kick down is activated via mechanical rod; the ST400 has two electrical wires that run to it - one for the kick down and one for the switch (variable) pitch.  On the 63 - 66 Rivieras, with which I'm familiar, each of the years has a different carburetor with unique linkage that connects to the transmission (63) or the kick down switch (64 - 66.)  The transmissions are different lengths which will require shortening your drive shaft and relocating the transmission crossmember. You'll need different shift linkage which may necessitate a different steering column and neutral safety switch.

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Ugh, so I got a quote of $900 for a rebuild plus "whatever the torque convertor guy may charge". So, I thought I would tackle the rebuild part myself. I ordered a rebuild kit from this place in Oregon. 8 days later, no change in the status of my order. They don't answer their phones or emails. Finally I sent a note threatening to have my bank draw back the money. The guy responds telling me some parts are on national back order and he didn't realize it. The saga continues. 

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On 7/28/2020 at 5:40 PM, psychostang said:

I believe that Tom said that it just allows the trans to shift at a higher rpm.

The information that I posted earlier was from a post by Tom T.  I'm not much of a mechanic but I have a great mind for remembering what I read.  

 

Here's his post copied and posted in which he says "higer rpm AND FIRMER"  Just repeating what I'd read.  I don't claim to be an expert on anything but what someone has said before me. The last four words that he posted.  😎   Here's the link to the entire thread.  

 

 

telriv

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As you know '64's are by themselves. "65 & '66 the governor is set to shift at a slightly higher shift point & the separator plate the two holes that pass the fluid to the clutches to fill faster are slightly larger by about .020" for a firmer shift.

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