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Lift Points for Buick 320 Engine? Advice Needed


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I am in the process of removing the old 320 engine from my '49 76S and replacing it with a rebuilt '50.  I have read some posts on lift points but still need some advice on what the proper lift points might be for this behemoth.

 

I suppose fore and aft head bolts could be removed and those could be used however there are two smaller un-used bolt holes in the head - are those suitable? They look small.

 

The engine has manifolds on it so it is off-balance - does anyone have an idea (or photo!) on how to design a lift-bracket so the engine would not roll off to one side?  Engine is in a shop now that can fabricate something and has proper lifts but if anyone has been here before I would greatly appreciate your advice!

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Be careful with the cast mount that supports the oil filter.    Many break there.    Making a support by bracing from below will help.    Anything that relieves the vertical load on that  casting.   

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On my '41 Century, I removed the valve cover and bolted the lift chains to the head using slightly longer grade 8 head bolts, two near the front, two near the rear.

 

To mount the engine on a stand more recently, I simply used a pair of bolts in the manifold bolt holes to lift it. I don't know that I'd use that technique to lift it out of an engine bay since it was pretty hard to control, but it was adequate to lift it high enough to put it on an engine stand.

 

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If you have a 'Harbor Freight'  close by,   buy on of those tilting devices so you can lift and tilt as necessary.    That with an engine hoist (again - around $150 for a 2000#  version to handle the over hang issue,  your home free.    Mine folds up into a ~ 18" x 24" space.    You might find a used one for less or borrow one.     The tilt device just goes into a corner for the occasional use.     That worked for me with my '248' swap.   

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I am a little late to this post, but when we put the 320 AND transmission in the 37 roadmaster our engine man made a lift "tube" out of 1 1/2 square tubing. He drilled it to fit over the valve cover studs. He also drilled it in several places for a lifting eye-bolt to be put in. We just chose the best place for the eye-bolt to balance the assembly where we wanted it. In our case it was way to the rear because of the transmission. I was VERY skeptical about the valve cover stud locations as they seem to small to lift over a half ton of iron. My guy has over 40 years experience so I went with his idea.  All went very well. No slips, tips or damage to either the car or engine and trans. We did use new, longer bolts in the valve cover stud mounting holes. The assembly was a bit tipped towards the driver side because of the intakes and carb, but it was not really a problem in the big picture. If I were to do it again I would think twice about doing the engine and transmission as an assembled group.

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37_RC - that does seem like a lot of load for those valve cover bolt holes.  Thanks for the info!

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