Cokekid

48 v12 Vibration Damper.?

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While waiting for some parts to be delivered I started to look for things I could do now.

 

I  was always wondering how the Damper worked so I started to examine it. When I looked at the engines from the #1 seized engine and then looked at the  #2 rebuilt engine I noticed a difference. The first picture is from the  #1engine  and it shows the damper set back into the block.  On the #2 engine the damper is set further out.

59954752_LINDAMPERSEIZED03654.JPG.e1a63797c3dfb4993a6d0ca5c7d0e887.JPG #1 engine

1378263243_LINDAMPERREBUILT03655.JPG.fc122b8e08c2e2e8ef229317d4c7c834.JPG#2 engine

 

I would appreciate if  someone would explain to me how this part works.

 

Gerry

 

 

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Benefits of AACA Membership.

Number 1 engine shows the Harmonic Balancer [ Damper]  in its   correct position. . Number 2 engine the keyway needs to be lined up,  the mating  surfaces  polished then the Damper can be lightly tapped on to crankshaft to its correct position as per number 1 engine. I believe there are two types of damper, one with 4 bolts the other with 6 bolts with slightly different shaped flanges.  How does it work?? very mysteriously! They tell us it soaks up any harmonic?? out of balance weight and sounds, Very clever!! Those two flanges are spring loaded with a clutch plate between them and clamp to a central disc and can relocate and  rotate  at slightly different speed to damper body which runs at crankshaft speed dampering   out any small vibrations. As I say quite clever. Other viewers will have their views. Lets see them. 

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Beltfed

 

The First engine is from a 47 Linc Zephyr and the Second is from a 48 Linc Cont.

 

After  reading  your question I went back out to take a look at both engines and to my surprise I found another problem. I noticed that the front engine covers were different as shown in the two photos.

I never took notice of which cover came off which engine. As you can see, there is a difference around the sides when I install a gasket on them.

 

The gaskets came in a kit that I bought at Hersey last year and all the thin gaskets will only fit one of the covers.

 

I am now totally confused as to why the one cover is slightly wider then the other.

 

Gerry

 

 1569885420_LINTIMINGCOVERS03657.JPG.a4e622d80b3f83bc96f7d4ca8fa57925.JPG 

 

 

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Posted (edited)

Slight casting difference may be.  Different  foundry?   Looks like the wide cover goes on the red block? you  could make a wider gasket to suit or use  narrow gasket on wide  cover  Should seal ok.  

Edited by 38ShortopConv. (see edit history)

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I presently have two post running regarding a Oil Slinger, and this one. Seeing that I have found another problem I will keep all my questions in this post,

 

I decided to replace the Oil Slinger and after seeing the diagram for the assembling Damper. The first thing is to remove the I/2 " nut inside the Damper. I read some were that  if you ever have a motor rebuilt you should always review all the parts that were replace. The reason being you will find out what I just did, there is no nut inside this damper.  

 

#1 ENGINE -Has Bolt

 

1558882092_LINDAMPERNUT103659.JPG.ac37997e2efbf4bb964accb2f2dca777.JPG

 

#2 Engine- Nothing 

 

 

 

669176270_LINDAMPERNONUT2ENGINEN03658.JPG.3a880e373097f10f0a3edcfe1e020196.JPG

 

I am going to try and read up on how to remove the Damper as it must have been pressed on

 

Gerry

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Posted (edited)

That vibration damper should just come off by tugging on it. If it doesn't, use a brass rod and small hammer to tap at the back of the pulley where the oil seal meets the crankshaft. Do not use a steel drift or hammer directly on these parts as you can damage them. The brass is softer than the steel and will not harm the steel.

 

Edit: the pulley looks like it is hung up on the key, so when you get it off check to make sure that the key is the right size and shape. It must also be fully seated in the crankshaft groove. I think that it is a 1/4" by 1 1/4" long with a taper on the front to allow easy assembly.

Edited by 19tom40 (see edit history)

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19tom40

 

Decided to remove Damper  and  reuse the Oil Slinger from #1 Engine. Although removing parts  from #2 Engine was quit easy, as it almost slid off. Taking the parts off engine #2 was lot tougher. I had to  spray the Damper shaft with Blast Off and then placed  two pieces of 2x4 one on each side behind the pulley  and the engine block.

 

I would then tap each piece of wood backwards against the pulley side I also kept tapping the shaft. After about an hour, the Damper came off along with the slinger.

 

Both the slinger & bolt from  #1 Engine will now be used.

 

1732470057_LINBOTHDAMPERSSLINGER03660.JPG.a650891d105ec582730f8ec7688d9ee0.JPG

 

 

Thanks Guys for helping me solve this problem

 

 

 

 

  

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Beltfed

 

The #1 engine came out of a 47 Lin Coup. The #2 engine is from a 48 Lin Cont. I am starting to wonder why there is a difference 

 

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I'm back. Just when I thought everything was going well with this slinger up pops another problem.

 

The slinger slides onto a shaft that is totally different from one engine to the other.  Both engines have a Woodruff Key #352650-S . The problem is #2 engine has another one #352651-S  called  "Vibration Damper Hub Key".  Were the shaft on engine #1 doesn't have one . If I slide the slinger onto the shaft on #2 engine  it ends up to be crooked.

 

 

#1 engine

Animation4.gif.57897c0884a0c121cfb2ad07158d856e.gif

 

1473160473_LINSHAFT2.gif.2a1ea6f6d431f5766417aea8b93fb5a0.gif

 

Gerry

 

 

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Posted (edited)

Both snouts on the crankshaft have 2 grooves for keys. My guess is that the vibration damper key is the incorrect key. Compare it to the key from engine 1. I looks like both pulleys are bent, the one on the right more than the one on the left. If they are bent, look for new ones or you will have belt problems.

 

The slinger slot is supposed to engage the key that holds the crank gear in place and be behind the damper key.

Edited by 19tom40 (see edit history)

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According to my Lincoln chassis parts book the  "woodruff" key should  finish flush at the front edge of crank gear. The slinger sits back flat  against the gear boss  held  back by the damper body and  located by the damper " square"  key.  

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Posted (edited)

Tom &Jerry, after further research  I believe the slinger slot  is located on the " woodruff key" ear/ tag and not the balancer "square key". There is a notch at the end of the balancer body  which has clearance  around  the ear tag and allows the balancer to push   the slinger against the crank gear boss. The  "square key" locates balancer and does not reach the slinger. See page 6 of 171  third  post down,   Mssr. Bwatoe  Harmonic  Balancer exploded view. 

Edited by 38ShortopConv. (see edit history)

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I finally got to install then slinger. Not to sure if this was the right way but here  is how I did it.

 

I Aligned the hole in the slinger onto the Vibration Hub Key and slid it all the way to the end.  I then turn the slinger all the way to the right onto the Woodruff Key.

 

Here  is what it look like now.

 

1397210086_LINOILSLINGERINSTALLED03666.JPG.66c7630bb51add9036ca209519312857.JPG+

I hope I installed it the right way .

 

19tom40

 

I also noticed that both pulleys on each Damper looked bent. Time to make some phone calls.

 

  

 

 

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38ShortopConv.

 

It had me guess if it was going on the right way.

 

Seeing that it's off. Now is the question about getting it back on. Just trying to slid it onto the Damper it only goes onto the shaft  about 1" and then it will not go any further.

 

I am hoping someone has done his before.

 

I don't want to start another post on my next question as the topic here is about the Damper.   Does anyone knows what material the pulley on the Damper is made of. I am sure it is not Cast Iron.

 

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The pulleys are made of steel. The key doesn't look like it is seated in the groove. remove the key and make sure that the slot is clean. Try the damper, it should go all of the way on without requiring more than hand pressure. Replace the key with the taper towards the front of the car. If the damper doesn't slide on, check the key for damage.

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19tom40

You were correct when you said the Vibration Key was originally  installed the wrong way.  I pulled  the Damper back off and turned the key around and the Damper went back on with

without a problem.

 

 

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Me and my buddy were sitting around talking about this Damper. He comment on "Why was there a extra large washer added, when the parts listed only a 1/2" (1/8' x13/16 Lock washer."

 

Gerry

 

374329524_LINDAMPERBOLTS03670.JPG.c319ef03b9404d5b9867642da7807852.JPG

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Posted (edited)

Printers error? The large washer is needed.
The extra wide washer is" convex"  [has  slight hollow ] to clear end of  crankshaft  so the OD of washer  tightens down   on  Damper. The lock washer as we all know   keeps bolt tight unless  it snaps and falls out. Lock washers [spring washers]  have been known to break. Use a new one.  The wide convex washer has to be installed with curve facing out otherwise balancer  will be loose. 

Edited by 38ShortopConv. (see edit history)

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Just want to make sure I am installing the4 slinger the right way.

 

Here is how I am going to install it.

 

Gerry

536691635_LINOILSLINGERRIGHTWAY03683.JPG.d26085967159c1a560aea562ce3cbc7d.JPG

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The reason I was asking is I noticed the slot on the Damper never went all the way into the Special key.  I was concerned that I had installed the Slinger the wrong way. After taking a good look at my photo I realized that if I install it that way I would have covered up the Special Key.

 

The next photo shows were the slot on the Damper goes into the Special Key it doesn't go in all the way.  The back of the slinger is tight against the block.

 

My question now is it correct.? 

 1130808011_LINOILSLINGERRIGHTWAY03684.JPG.119e123aee88509d718f9c0cd6864abb.JPG

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