Dwight Olejnik Posted July 5, 2020 Posted July 5, 2020 Hi all, I am looking for sources for a new- used- rebuilt or rebuild my s.b.e.c. thanks for any help. Dwight
Hemi Dude Posted July 6, 2020 Posted July 6, 2020 10 hours ago, Dwight Olejnik said: Hi all, I am looking for sources for a new- used- rebuilt or rebuild my s.b.e.c. thanks for any help. Dwight Hello back to you Dwight. I think it might be a good idea for you to give US a reason for your desire for a SBEC for this 1990 3.0L So, kindly give us some indication of the problem you have encountered with this TC. Most of us are troubleshooters and not parts sales sellers, though there have been several recent TCs parted out that you could have sought this SBEC from. You seem to be a tiny bit too knowledgeable about the type of engine controller you are seeking which makes me curious as to your motives for contacting us. So, give us a reason...
Dwight Olejnik Posted July 6, 2020 Author Posted July 6, 2020 Well where do i start .I own a red 90 tc with the 3.0 engine slowly an more frequency the car has started acting as if it is running out of gas , loss of power,stalling out. Upon letting the car cool of it will start back up an run fine. Distributer has been replaced also coil, fuel pump was replaced by previous owner whom I know quite well. Now i have located one source to rebuild my sbec
Dwight Olejnik Posted July 6, 2020 Author Posted July 6, 2020 Seens im long winded. Now i have experienced these same symptoms in ford ignition systems an chevy distributor ignition module now if you got a better idea im open to Subgestion.
Reaper1 Posted July 6, 2020 Posted July 6, 2020 Since these cars don't usually get driven often, my fist inclination is to go straight for the fuel system. I know you said you had the pump replaced, but what about all of the rubber hoses and the filter? Have the injectors ever been cleaned? In all honesty is sounds like a failed fuel pressure regulator. 1
Dwight Olejnik Posted July 6, 2020 Author Posted July 6, 2020 thanks for the reply reaper1 I did pull an test injections last year also fuel preassure is as it should be honesty this is not a new problem for me.but some thing ive been trying to solve for like 3 yrs now. Im no professional mechanic but have been tinkering all my life . start with the Obvious tell you get to whats left. Still looking but everything is pointing to computer really looking for rebuild options as used ones i have found are 300 to 500 no guarantees. I am still open to suggestions as my goal is to drive this sweet little car. Thank again
Reaper1 Posted July 6, 2020 Posted July 6, 2020 Hmm...mucking with that kind of issue for 3 years would be tiresome! I know it would be long winded, but maybe go through the circumstances in which the car acts up? As for the SBEC, any 1989 or 1990 Chrysler car that came with the 3.0 and A604 should be plug-n-play. Recently on the TM forums there's been more talk and focus on the actual pin connections and such of our electrical systems. It appears that these are notorious for losing their grip to make contact and can cause issues due to vibrations, etc. So what I am saying here is, check the connectors too. It is rare for our control modules to go bad. Not that they can't. 1
Hemi Dude Posted July 7, 2020 Posted July 7, 2020 12 hours ago, Dwight Olejnik said: Seens im long winded. Now i have experienced these same symptoms in ford ignition systems an chevy distributor ignition module now if you got a better idea im open to Subgestion. Thanks for your description of the problem. I have a 3.0L Voyager with a lot of miles on it. It could be considered bad luck, but then I don’t believe in ‘luck’ bad or good, This van has gone through more fuel pumps than I can count. I have made several cross country trips, even some towing a car on a dolly. Each trip has produced a fuel pump failure which were repaired at various Chrysler dealers around the USA. Each time they put in a Chrysler part numbered pump and I continued on. The following year, another failure during a long trip. What I have discovered is the pump gets so extremely hot from radiation off the highway black-top. This makes the rollers in the pump begin to seize. I have found that waiting until dark when the road cools will allow me to get under way again. I carry a spare fuel pump as they are not so easy to find along the road. My suggestion would be another pump, preferably a Bosch. 1
Dwight Olejnik Posted July 8, 2020 Author Posted July 8, 2020 i did fall to mention trans will but not often, stay in 2nd gear . stopping an restarting engine corrects that problem . no backup lights the wire that is mentioned in news letter has all ready be cut.
Reaper1 Posted July 8, 2020 Posted July 8, 2020 1 hour ago, Dwight Olejnik said: i did fall to mention trans will but not often, stay in 2nd gear . stopping an restarting engine corrects that problem . no backup lights the wire that is mentioned in news letter has all ready be cut. This could be caused by a number of things. The early connectors had issues and there was a TSB to replace the pig-tails. I can't remember if that coincided with new sensors. Hemi actually might know off the top of his head on that. If it were mine: trans fluid and filter (ATF +4 ONLY!), take the sensors out and clean them off, new solenoid pack because the new ones are WAY better than even a decent old one, a good aftermarket transmission cooler and see how she does.
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