Jump to content

1950 Buick Super Heater Valve Replacement


Recommended Posts

  • JohnD1956 locked and unlocked this topic
12 hours ago, jdbarlow2000 said:

The heater valve was leaking, so I ordered a replacement. The one I took off is missing the part that I have circled in red. any idea when that part attached to?

Heater Valve.jpg

Is the wire attached to that part or just wound around it?  Is it just a doo-dad that comes with part as something to wind it up on for packaging?

Link to post
Share on other sites

Two slightly different heater valves were used.   The one pictured has the sensing tube wrapped around the bar that is shown. Don't try to remove it or cut it.  It is a SEALED tube charged with a gas.   Cut it and its junk. Its like a mechanical temperature gauge with a capillary tube.

   The style you received will work fine in its place.  The sensing coil on it is contained in the valve assembly.     

  • Like 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

Agreed, but his question stands. He didn't have a bracket before. Logic says it mounts somewhere close to the heater core, or at least in the air stream, but where did Buick put that bracket and how does it attach?

Edited by Bloo (see edit history)
  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Link to post
Share on other sites
3 hours ago, critterpainter said:

Two slightly different heater valves were used.   The one pictured has the sensing tube wrapped around the bar that is shown. Don't try to remove it or cut it.  It is a SEALED tube charged with a gas.   Cut it and its junk. Its like a mechanical temperature gauge with a capillary tube.

   The style you received will work fine in its place.  The sensing coil on it is contained in the valve assembly.     

 

I thought it was the tube as well that is positioned close to the core.  However, looking at the end of the tube(wire) at the bracket it looks like exposed wires.  It just may be the picture.  Maybe it is solder.  I can't  really tell.  At any rate, if it is the capillary tube it should be positioned next to the core.  

Edited by avgwarhawk (see edit history)
  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites
36 minutes ago, jdbarlow2000 said:

Thanks avgwarhawk, I got it installed yesterday and bolted that part under the dash close to the defrost duct. 

If you are referring to the temp sensing tube, it should actually go into the air duct.  Isn't that how your original was?

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 8 months later...

If you have a Ranco heater valve like the one shown there's likely a little round rubber internal seal that is leaking. The valve has to be disassembled and a new seal installed. It can be done but it's a delicate procedure. There used to be companies that advertised in Hemmings Motor News that repaired these but I don't know if they still do it. 

Link to post
Share on other sites
2 hours ago, Mr. Reed said:

My heater control valve is leaking as well. I have seen an oval shaped sponge type seal with two holes in it. Is that the problem on these. Is that what goes bad? Thanks

Check here

  • Like 2
  • Thanks 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

If you use the car in a manner that doesn't require the heater to be operational I have found the you can use a 5/8" ID copper sweat pipe cap the block the valve off. The heater hose will side right over and one one knows. It will keep the carpet nice and dry. And if it has an under seat heater the passenger is a lot happier.

Link to post
Share on other sites
12 hours ago, Mr. Reed said:

I would like to make the heater functional. Even if it's not used much. I like everything to work.

The kit as shown in Willies rebuild instructions is still available at NAPA.  I sent mine to Fusick for a rebuild.   

Link to post
Share on other sites

Someone has a light gray Cadillac Series 62 hardtop with a dark blue top who probably does even know. That's how good the antifreeze stains came out of the carpet.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Dan's answer reminds me of a friend who went to a late model Rolls-Royce brake seminar at the club headquarters in Mechanicsburg, PA. I asked him how the seminar went. He said "Not too good...... I still think I can do it myself".

  • Like 1
  • Haha 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks guys. Once this is done I will have a non leaking heater valve haha. I drove the car for a couple months with fresh antifreeze and a new radiator. Time for a flush. There was some rusty water coming out. That transmission cooler didn't look too hot when I replaced the hoses. Can you take that off and clean it or is that a big hassle?

Link to post
Share on other sites

Major hassle to remove and replace trans cooler with the tranny in-place on a '49,  It's meant to be serviced with the transmission removed.  I'm not sure of other years but it's super tight space on a '49.  It took me two hours of frustration to replace one with transmission installed.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hopefully a good flush should clear the passages then. The car sat for about 60 years with not much work done with it. The man who I purchased the car from rebuilt the carb and new fuel filter,battery,spark plugs and started it but that's it. It was originally from west virginia and the original owners family sent it to the junkyard. But it was saved yeah

Link to post
Share on other sites
18 hours ago, Dan O said:

Joe Hudacek repaired mine for $85.  It looks like new.  His email is hudacekjj@chartermi.net.  Website: http://heatervalves.net/

 

It's a lot easier than figuring out this spring loaded puzzle!

Just purchased a new valve from him. Super nice guy and easy to deal with. Shipped out today even

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...