Laughing Coyote Posted June 13, 2020 Share Posted June 13, 2020 Be careful out there. The new replacements are just as bad. https://www.msn.com/en-us/autos/news/harbor-freight-recall-replacement-jack-stands-may-be-unsafe-too-report-says/ar-BB15p6S8?li=BBnb4R5 3 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
capngrog Posted June 13, 2020 Share Posted June 13, 2020 I think the technical term for a weld of that quality is: "chewing gum weld". I'm sure there are other terms, but you get the drift. Cheers, Grog 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zepher Posted June 13, 2020 Share Posted June 13, 2020 This article doesn't make me feel warm and fuzzy, either. https://www.thedrive.com/news/33679/scary-photos-of-recalled-harbor-freight-jackstands-show-just-how-dangerous-they-are 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MochetVelo Posted June 13, 2020 Share Posted June 13, 2020 That test might be worth trying. I always thought the pin-type jack stands were the most secure. There are also "double pin lock" stands that have an additional support pin to hold onto the ratchet bar. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
28 Chrysler Posted June 14, 2020 Share Posted June 14, 2020 I use foot long wood 4X4s on cars I don't fit under (stacked laying down not on end) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
60FlatTop Posted June 14, 2020 Share Posted June 14, 2020 On the rare occasions that I might use four jack stands I would drag my floor jack to the area I was working and support the closest axle or frame area with light pressure from the jack if I needed full access I would have a stack of wheels with mounted tires under each end. Do these recalls mean people are working under their cars with only jack stands supporting them? That old garage picture was taken within 30 years of when I started working in my grandfather's shop. If he or my dad had come in and seen the chain fall lying on the floor instead of a secondary support I would have been sent out back to dip water out of tire casings with a tuna fish can. I have an area of my garage where woodchucks burrowed under over the years. I am extra cautious just in case they made a void under the concrete. When I put the new lift in I will cut the floor out, verify, and replace with a denser mix. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
padgett Posted June 14, 2020 Share Posted June 14, 2020 Any more I prefer to use my lift with positive stops. Have A Bunch of HF jackstands but mostly from the early daze. Like much better than the blue round stamped steel tube and pin stands I used to have. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DB26 Posted June 15, 2020 Share Posted June 15, 2020 (edited) 5 hours ago, padgett said: Any more I prefer to use my lift with positive stops. Have A Bunch of HF jackstands but mostly from the early daze. Like much better than the blue round stamped steel tube and pin stands I used to have. What model is the lift in the photo? I’ve been wanting one. Edited June 15, 2020 by DB26 (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank DuVal Posted June 15, 2020 Share Posted June 15, 2020 The Corvair forums have people that like the EZ Car Lift: https://ezcarlift.com/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kgreen Posted June 15, 2020 Share Posted June 15, 2020 14 hours ago, padgett said: Any more I prefer to use my lift with positive stops. Have A Bunch of HF jackstands but mostly from the early daze. Like much better than the blue round stamped steel tube and pin stands I used to have. Looks nice for some tasks but I can't see doing any work on a Buick Torque ball with this lift. I currently using a set of HF 12-ton jack stands with no extension to hold the rear of the car and stacked wood blocks fastened together under the front tires. At the very least, I'm giving extra consideration to work under a lifted car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
padgett Posted June 15, 2020 Share Posted June 15, 2020 (edited) Don't think available now, I needed a 7k lift for my 6300 lb RV. Today I'd probably buy an Atlas Kwik Bay lift. (now 7k ,was only 6k) What I do usually involves removing wheels and tires but has a 33" open center to drop a Fiero gas tank. This is dual piston but has a tube interconnect so both sides are locked together. It also has bottom trays (nothing rolls on the concrete) and mechanical safety locks. Also handles anything from a 93" wb Fiero to a 148" wb Vixen (ramp tips can lock up). And it is portable (not usually over a door lip). You have a much greater selection in the 7k class than I did then. Bottom line, different units are better for different needs but after long study this one fit mine the best and still does. Edited June 15, 2020 by padgett (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JamesR Posted June 15, 2020 Share Posted June 15, 2020 19 hours ago, padgett said: Any more I prefer to use my lift with positive stops. Padgett, I'm interested in a lift like this. Questions: -Do they still make this? If so, brand? - What is the price range? - I presume it would handle a '65 T-Bird with unibody? Car weight is 4500. Any other info appreciated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
padgett Posted June 15, 2020 Share Posted June 15, 2020 See previous post (why no numbers ?) Today I'd probably buy an Atlas Kwik Bay lift. Tad under $3k. Are some under $2k but seem pretty cheap or have horizontal bars. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CarlLaFong Posted June 15, 2020 Share Posted June 15, 2020 On 6/12/2020 at 10:10 PM, capngrog said: I think the technical term for a weld of that quality is: "chewing gum weld". I'm sure there are other terms, but you get the drift. Cheers, Grog Bird excrement weld Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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