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So I went down to the local O'Reilly's Auto to look for a product to dye some of the faded spots in my 66 Riviera carpet. All I could find was a spray that is used on car fabrics, but not really anything for dying carpet (black).

 

What is a legit product with a good result. Does anyone have good experiences?

 

Thank you for any insights. I am sure there is a thread somewhere on this.

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RIT dye works if you mix it in hot water and spray it on.  Make sure the carpet is really clean.  Wet the carpet before dyeing.  Only dye the faded areas other wise you will dye the good parts even darker.  It's pretty simple to combine dyes to come up with the exact color you need.  After you think the carpet is dry, go over it with a wet rag to remove any excess dye that did not penetrate the fibers.  I've never had very good luck using solvent based products on fibers (vinyls are okay.)

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On 5/23/2020 at 2:43 PM, Chimera said:

So I went down to the local O'Reilly's Auto to look for a product to dye some of the faded spots in my 66 Riviera carpet. All I could find was a spray that is used on car fabrics, but not really anything for dying carpet (black).

 

What is a legit product with a good result. Does anyone have good experiences?

 

Thank you for any insights. I am sure there is a thread somewhere on this.

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IMG_4647.JPG

The fabric dye that O'reilly's sells is great for carpet......I used it on the faded black carpet in my GTO and it looks better now than when the carpet in the car was brand new.

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My experience with aerosol dyes tells me that the carpet will look good but it will not be a pliable as it was originally.  Don't get in the car barefooted and expect to wiggle your toes in it.

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10 minutes ago, RivNut said:

My experience with aerosol dyes tells me that the carpet will look good but it will not be a pliable as it was originally.  Don't get in the car barefooted and expect to wiggle your toes in it.

Nope......the carpet is soft and pliable and looks fantastic with the O'reilly's fabric dye.

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51 minutes ago, Seafoam65 said:

Nope......the carpet is soft and pliable and looks fantastic with the O'reilly's fabric dye.

What was the brand name of the dye that O'Reilly's that you used?

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The brand is SEM and the part no. for black is 15013. My O'reilly's doesn't keep it on the shelf but can get it from the warehouse in a couple of hours. On my GTO the carpet was like new other than the color had faded to purple due to sun exposure at car shows

with the top down on the car. Generally I never put the top up on my GTO, I just have a car cover over it when not driving it. Sometimes

I have gone several years without putting it up. I can honestly say that the carpet in the GTO looks better than it did when I first installed it back in the 90's......the black color of the carpet was never that deep and vibrant even when it was new. An added bonus was that the color of the carpet strips on the bottom of the front door panels never matched the main carpet exactly......now it does

match and it really looks great.

Edited by Seafoam65 (see edit history)
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totally agree with Ed, rit dye is the one to use, The spray bomb dyes do just like ed says, make the carpet stiff. DO NOT USE THEM. RIT sprayed on from a bottle, and mixed with hot water works great.

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My carpet is not stiff or "crunchy" with the dupli-color.

 

Regular RIT is your dads tie-dye. Regular RIT only soaks in to natural fibers.

If you are going to use RIT get the one for man-made products. This stuff you usually have to order 'cause it ain't on most shelves.

 

 

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Edited by PWB (see edit history)
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After all the above comments I went out to my GTO and ran my fingers through the carpet fibers. Then I ran my fingers through the carpet

fibers on the perfect unmolested original carpet in my 65 Riviera. There was ABSOLUTELY NO CRUNCHING OR STIFFNESS  in the GTO's spray died carpets and  ABSOLUTELY NO DIFFERENCE in the texture, stiffness or softness of the two carpets. CASE CLOSED......we are done now. Having been in the car repair business for 47 years, I have found that the main difference between the guy who works on his cars on weekends and the guy who works on cars 7 days a week is that the part time hobbyist will always fixate on the most difficult way to accomplish the job in question and will reject the simple effective way every single time. Recent examples on this forum are fighting speed nuts and barrel clips to install a nameplate on a fender when it could be glued on in ten seconds, or tearing the entire dash out of a  car to change the heater core, rejecting taking it out from the engine side. Now we are ripping out interiors to remove the carpet and then mixing up a batch of RIT dye to dye the carpet, then reinstalling the carpet and interior, when it could be masked and spray dyed in about twenty minutes with absolutely perfect results. All of this reminds me of the old Texas Aggie joke inquiring how many Aggies does it take to change

a light bulb? Answer: 5    1 to stand on the ladder and hold the bulb, and 4 to pick up the  occupied ladder and rotate it.

 

Edited by Seafoam65 (see edit history)
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42 minutes ago, Seafoam65 said:

Having been in the car repair business for 47 years, I have found that the main difference between the guy who works on his cars on weekends and the guy who works on cars 7 days a week is that the part time hobbyist will always fixate on the most difficult way to accomplish the job in question and will reject the simple effective way every single time. Recent examples on this forum are fighting speed nuts and barrel clips to install a nameplate on a fender when it could be glued on in ten seconds...

Sorry, but if I find body bling that's glued on rather than fastened with nuts as original, there better be a damn good reason (e.g. mounting studs are broken off).  "It's faster to glue it" is not, in and of itself, that reason.  BTW, if you removed it by spinning off the nuts, why can't you just spin them back on?

 

Think about this...  Anyone who has worked on old cars has encountered a potentially straightforward job made infinitely more complicated because they also have to work through some previous "mechanic's" hackeration.  Consider that nameplate.  Yeah, it may be a PITA to get to those nuts -- but when you do it comes off cleanly. OTOH, removing a glued-on piece entails greater risk of damaging the finish and or molding.  The next guy who wants to remove that molding doesn't know it's now glued on -- so he proceeds as if everything's normal, only to find that he's just wasted his time by placing undeserved faith in the previous guy and he now has to start over.  IOW, a simple job just got harder.  It cost you 10 seconds to cost him an hour.  If I'm that him, it's now time to remove the women and children from the area, lest their delicate ears be violated by my vitriolic appraisal of his aptitude.

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I appreciate all the comments. Thanks guys. I am going with the vinyl spray route on this one. Its a case by case. When I redo the star wars air cleaners I don't like it when people have glued on the BUICK letters, because it often makes it harder to remove and restore, yet that is a special part. Still, hearing that other people have used the product I was thinking about getting, successfully, helps me to move forward with greater confidence. It makes sense for my specific project. 

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1 hour ago, Seafoam65 said:

After all the above comments I went out to my GTO and ran my fingers through the carpet fibers. Then I ran my fingers through the carpet

fibers on the perfect unmolested original carpet in my 65 Riviera. There was ABSOLUTELY NO CRUNCHING OR STIFFNESS  in the GTO's spray died carpets and  ABSOLUTELY NO DIFFERENCE in the texture, stiffness or softness of the two carpets. CASE CLOSED......we are done now. Having been in the car repair business for 47 years, I have found that the main difference between the guy who works on his cars on weekends and the guy who works on cars 7 days a week is that the part time hobbyist will always fixate on the most difficult way to accomplish the job in question and will reject the simple effective way every single time. Recent examples on this forum are fighting speed nuts and barrel clips to install a nameplate on a fender when it could be glued on in ten seconds, or tearing the entire dash out of a  car to change the heater core, rejecting taking it out from the engine side. Now we are ripping out interiors to remove the carpet and then mixing up a batch of RIT dye to dye the carpet, then reinstalling the carpet and interior, when it could be masked and spray dyed in about twenty minutes with absolutely perfect results. All of this reminds me of the old Texas Aggie joke inquiring how many Aggies does it take to change

a light bulb? Answer: 5    1 to stand on the ladder and hold the bulb, and 4 to pick up the  occupied ladder and rotate it.

 

 

OUCH

Maybe people of that ilk R&R the Heater Core through the console area instead of through the firewall so their "perfect unmolested original" STAYS that way. Unmolested.

By the way, generally speaking, the main difference between the guy who works on his car on weekends and the 7 days a week guy: the weekend guy LIKES working on cars and looks forward to the difficult jobs. The 7 day a week guy wants and needs a day off.

As far as the two way tape, well, it just SCREAMS "hack-job".

Steve in Mass 9236

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