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Need Help With Paint Touch Up


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My car has an older repaint in what I think was the original color (Royal Maroon), but I can’t be sure because the data plate is missing.  I was able to get the paint matched and have touch up paint in small bottles plus a spray can.  I’m happy with the match, and have touched up a lot of little dings and chips successfully.  However, I need advice about trying to repair several larger areas where the paint has chipped off.  The only time I attempted an area larger than a small chip, I had trouble getting a smooth glossy surface that matched the paint around the chip area. This was undoubtedly because I have no experience with paint and no idea what I’m doing!  I used a polishing compound that works well in restoring a shiny surface to areas with surface scuffs and light scratches, but with the newly painted area the compound would not produce a shine – i.e., the color match was good but the surface remained dull and didn’t match the shine of the paint around the area.  In addition to my general lack of experience, I think the problem is two-fold: (1) I am timid about sanding because I don’t want to make things worse by putting scratches in the good paint around the chip that I can’t get out, and (2) I’m lazy and impatient and want the job to be done very fast which is probably unrealistic!

 

Here’s a pic of the area I would like to repair.  It’s on the trunk lid next to one of the hinges, and measures about an inch by an inch-and-a-half.  I’m not looking for an “invisible” repair – I would just like it to look better.  How should I approach this job?  Thanks in advance for your help.

 

chip3.thumb.jpg.0ae347a570e1096e57fe8558b36d850e.jpg

 

 

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It's hard to give an exact answer.  It depends on you r skills, what type of paint you have and tools to work with it.  I will list several things that will need to be done. 1.  you must sand the bare metal to be free of rust. 300 grit will give you a good surface for your primer.  2.  You must prime to get acceptable  results.  3.The edges of the existing paint must be feathered to the bare metal.  4. when masking off the area to be painted, fold the tape edge that faces the repair area under.  This will allow the paint to feather out under the tape.  If you just apply tape, you will get a sharp edge when the tape is removed.  This will be hard to get smooth.  After painting, I wet sand with 600 grit, then move to 1,000 grit and and finally 2000 grit. At this point, you can compound and then buff for a smooth shiny  finish.

 

For small areas like this, I don't have a small paint gun , so I have had good luck with a Preval spray gun.  You can buy these at Lowes.  No need for an air line  as they have a small pressure tank with the preval system.

 

I would recommend that you practice on a scrap panel first.  Whatever you do, you can always sand back to bare metal and try again.  

 

Bob Engle

 

 

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Thanks, Bob, that's very helpful.  I have several 1 oz. bottles of touch up paint plus a spray can of the same paint that I got from the same supplier.  It's lacquer.  Would the Preval spray gun be a better way to go than just using the spray can?

 

I made some progress today on step 1.

 

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Lacquer does respond differently than modern paints.  It will soften and bond into the old paint.  That's not a problem, in fact it can make it easier.  I would use the preval to spray  some primer.  The spray can with lacquer should be fine.  Fortunately with lacquer, you can easily add additional coats, so don't get too heavy with the first coat.  

 

Bob Engle

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I had to do a scratch on my then new 73 Dodge Dart,gun metal grey metallic quarter panel. It was a sharp edged scratch and I knew it would'nt come out right if I tried to touch it up with a brush or spray the spot. I went to the dealer and got a bottle of touch up paint and went home to contemplate the repair. At the time I was getting my 64 Vette in Sebring silver ready for paint and I looked at my spot putty tube and had an idea. I poured several ounces of the Darts gunmetal grey onto a small tupperware lid and let it set for a day. When it got to the consistency of spot putty I scooped some on to the plastic paddle and applied it to the scratch just like you would spot putty. I let it bake in the sun all day. The next day I lightly wet sanded that spot with 1200 wet and then light compound.The scratch disappeared. It filled perfectly on a high metallic paint. Give it a try.

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