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Sealing Exhaust Valve Advice


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Posted (edited)

Replacing the exhaust valve on a 27/27 Standard and the new one we got doesn’t have much of a lip inside for the cross over pipe going to the carb to seat against.  There is a little lip but it’s very slight.  

Not sure it’s enough for graphite packing/rope to seal against.  Any ideas?

What is best to use on the threaded portion of the cross over pipe on the threaded collars that helps seal it up?  Right now I’m getting exhaust coming through the threaded collar so I’m sure there has to be a sealant to help seal the threads up that can withstand the heat and seal this area up?!?

I look forward to your thoughts and advice, also posting on the the prewar Buick FB page.

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Edited by Crazyfamily (see edit history)
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Crazyfamily..........we must be related with a name like that. Machine it out and install a bushing, if it’s not tight it will leak. If the only purpose is to heat the carb/intake just block it off so it can’t leak. You dont need extra heat today with modern fuel, and heating it will only cause headaches..

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I would totally eliminate the exhaust flow through the heat riser system. Use of the heat riser system has no benefit and only creates problems today. There are many discussions here about the procedure. You can leave all components in place for original appearance. On my 1929 I brass welded a plate in the exhaust diverter valve shown just to where the butterfly would clear it. This blocks all exhaust and still allows for installation of the heat tube. I did the same at the heat riser housing. Lastly I used a thin piece of stainless steel shim stock material between the exhaust manifold and the heat riser. You can disconnect the linkage or whatever you choose. Elimination of heat to the heat riser will greatly increase the life of the tube inside the heat riser housing. 

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William, 

   I would use High temp JBWeld and a brass disc to close off any exhaust pressure from the exhaust divertor valve side, then make a few brass or copper plates to close off pressure from the carburetor side.  Then you don't have to worry about trying to get the packing to work.  I would also remove the disc in the exhaust divertor valve to ensure that it is never closed.    This is my exhaust valve removal process.  I prefer to remove the valve disc so that there is never a worry that it is in the wrong position.   Hugh

 

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Posted (edited)

I’ll block it off, I had to get a new exhaust valve regardless as the rod holding the diverter was poking through the outside of the exhaust valve and allowing exhaust to exit/leak out.  The one on the car didn’t have a screw into it to show the position of the disk inside it.

 

this exhaust leak was so bad that I couldn’t drive the car a mile without getting a headache and smelling like exhaust!  Carbon dioxide is no joke, my face was red all day!

 

I want to start enjoying the car but I refuse to drive the car anymore till I get this exhaust leak fixed!

 

ill cap off the cross over pipe and the engine side of the heat riser per all of your advice! 

 

@Hugh. Did you purchase a set of “Copper” or Brass from online metals?  I didn’t see copper on their site but it looks like your block off is brass??

Edited by Crazyfamily (see edit history)
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