valk

'41 Carter choke heat tube

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Looking for a  carb choke heat tube that will fit a '41 Carter carb off a 320 engine. Don't know if the heat tube from the smaller engine/Carter would work. Has a brass fitting that screws directly into the carb housing..

Thanks,

Peter

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Hi Peter. You can buy new ones for $15 that are easy to cut and fit and include the insulation sleeve. It's aluminum, so you can form it easily, which is important since I think the Carter chokes are mounted perpendicular to the Strombergs.

 

chokekit.png

 

I used one of these kits on my rear carb when I converted it to two front carbs. I put a bit of heat shrink tubing around each end of the insulation sleeve to keep it from unraveling and that's working well--it doesn't really get hot enough to melt the heat shrink.

 

Here's a direct link: http://www.oldbuickparts.com/product_info.php?cPath=35_69_70&products_id=3210

 

Hope this helps!

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Thanks Ben and Matt, much appreciated. Didn't think this would be sold separately. 

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After mulling this over, I’d still like to get an original Carter choke heat tube for a ‘41/‘42 main carb if I could so it will match the one on my other main carb. I have a dual main carb set up and want them to look the same. If I can’t find one, I’ll punt and get the aftermarket kit. 
thank you,

Peter

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What will you connect it to? IIRC these Buicks had no second choke as built. Is there a second choke stove on the exhaust manifold?

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No second port for the tube so I’ll have to rig something up. Probably just rest it against the exhaust manifold where a second port logically would go. I’m not going to spend a lot of time making it work well as I don’t really need it. Understand it will have very little/no effect, but I think it would look like it belonged and better than not having one at all. 

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Your rear carburetor sits higher off the manifold than the front carb, so a stock stove pipe will just hang there in mid-air. The replacement, above, is longer and if you bend it carefully it will match the front one and will be long enough to reach the manifold so it looks right. The heat insulation is nice, too.

 

6-7-19-2.thumb.jpg.4c2cd5aa56447a50f11be6e4295597fb.jpg

 

 

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Peter, I know it wouldn`t be original, but you could use the kit Ben and Matt suggested, put a "T" in the line and feed to the rear carb, of course you`d need an extra length of tubing. Or build your own with copper tubing and put the wrap on it.

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Hmm. Two really good suggestions, thanks men. I shall meditate on this...

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I have made heat tubes out of Bundyflex, the sort of brake tubing of the sort that was extremely common until recently. You can probably still get it at NAPA if you ask.

 

Is there anything about this that would confound a tubing bender? I keep several cheapies around because there is always some bend that the one bender you are trying to use will not make. Matt Harwood's picture looks easy from what I can see.

 

Little "stop" beads can be made by forming a ring out of bailing wire and brazing it on. An oversize end if needed can be made by sliding a piece of the next size tubing on and brazing it in place. I never worried about the brass, but if you see too much of it you could drop the whole tube in a zinc plating bucket. 1950s-1970s Fords are full of these damn little tubes and they are always bad. I have made a bunch of them over the past few decades. They aren't that tough to make.

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I have a brake line on it now and it looks like, err, a brake line so I wanted to correct that. I also kinda like the serpentine curves of the original so I might try and copy that with the tubing kit. Bloo, your suggestion is best as it makes the choke function best but I think it's over my abilities. 

buickchoketubes.jpg

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Peter, i mentioned it once before(earlier posting) that on my dual set up i used Holley electric elements on both, fit perfectly, just had to flip the bi-metal coil over, i just have to personalize things,`41 248 engine in my `36, so it`s not original anyways. Little more geddy-up.

Edited by pont35cpe (see edit history)

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Not sure what Holly part you are referring to or what they look like. Any chance of a pic? 

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Electric Holley choke, they`ll fit right in place of the carter choke. The bi-metal coil has to be removed and flipped over to open the choke as it heats up, otherwise as the coil heats up it will close the choke. These are 12v, but do work with 6v. I`ve got my car back apart after fitting everything. Still trying to do the paint, other things keep getting in the way.

DSCN5057.JPG

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That’s pretty slick. I’ll look into that, thanks! 
are you painting your firewall with the engine I place? That’s the last frontier on my car with respect to painting so I’m interested in whether it can be done.

thanks again,

Peter

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...and I do recall you mentioned this before but my memory chip failed me..

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11 minutes ago, valk said:

That’s pretty slick. I’ll look into that, thanks! 
are you painting your firewall with the engine I place? That’s the last frontier on my car with respect to painting so I’m interested in whether it can be done.

thanks again,

Peter

Engine and trans are out. I`m fixing to start re-roofing my house(side-tracked again) and after that i hope to be full time on painting my `36. I`ve rebuilt everything and most items stored in the house ready to be put together once i get the paint done. Step one, was i had to replace about 90% of the wood, made and installed it all myself, this car is going to be brand new, one of these days. Tom

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Bravo Tom. Can’t wait to see it. 
I see you are keeping rather busy during this trying time. 
take care,

peter

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