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37 Coupe radiator removal

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I read something the other day written by an avid Vintage Rally Car owner and it made me think of all the things on my Coupe that are KINDA perfect. Basically he said “whatever the issues you suspect you might eventually have with your car, fix them now. Don’t hope for the best and wait till later”, I.e., “Pay now and fix it in your nice warm and comfy garage or really really Pay Later when you’re fixing it somewhere on the side of the road”. 


Which brings us to the subject at hand. Does anyone know how to remove the radiator without pulling the whole front nose. I’m good with removing everything north of the block but I still don’t see any way to lift it out without tearing a number of things up and then STILL have to pull off the nose.

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That seems extreme but mine has been out so long I don't remember what I did to get it out.

At the very least I'd say the front nose support rods would have to come off and the cooling fan blades.  Could it then be tilted toward the engine enough to pull it up and out on an angle. Or could it come out the sides.


Use care and finesse.  If you're trying to salvage the core as usable, put a thin piece of panel board over the fins,  duct tape it on or what ever to hold it in place


One thing I will comment on was the weight difference between the rad with the old core in it versus after with the new core.   And I don't think it was packed full of crap either.   What was the old core made of?

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It may have never been serviced and it could be 83 years old.


Do it.


If anything it will help with cooling and possibly prevent it from overheating if the cores are bunged up.


Did you ever drive this car to know if there is a cooling problem?

Edited by 1937McBuick (see edit history)
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From the 1937 Dealer Service Bulletins:  Pages 45 and 46





Pg. 45


"remove the hood"...  My hood has a saddle nut in the front and rear, just up under the radio.

You'll need some help lifting that monster up and over the car.  It's a good idea to have a table waiting to accept the hood when you remove it.


Then, after draining the radiator, remove the air cleaner and brace rods, remove all the hoses, the fan, water pump, thermostat housing to clear the front of the block.




Pg. 46

Remove the four side bolts and the two top cap screws

Cover the block with cardboard to avoid really banging up the core

Looks like he straddled the engine, tip the core back and wiggle it free.  


Thats how Buick says to do it!

Hope the information helps





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Sweet. All right; If Buick says it’s done that way then that’s how we’ll do it. Thanks so much. And it works out anyway. I blasted and painted the original (I’m assuming) water pump... and now it’s leaking. So it all has to come off anyway. Maybe I’ll pull the front cover for the timing chain and inspect that while the Rad is out too. Wouldn’t hurt to replace the seals anyway.


Oh, and to answer the other question... no I have yet to drive it more than down the street and back. It had very little power and the front suspension was all sloppy and deteriorated. I figured it best to go through everything before I tried to do anything ambitious. There’ll be lots of time for driving when it’s done. Cheers

Edited by Skidplate (see edit history)
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 Yes the service procedure works. And again you will need help as things are quite awkward.

 My good wife helped me do the removal. I did use a piece of cardboard between the engine and the core.

 But I did have to have the radiator re-cored. Still a painful endeavor.


 The shop that did the driver restoration of my car assured me that they cleaned the block water passages and the radiator was in great condition. The radiator plugged up solid from what was left in the block on our way to the 2015 BCA nationals. Thankfully only 57 miles from home. After re-core I installed a Gano filter.

 I had tried several treatments with Evaporust in the system to clean the radiator and block. No success with the radiator but the block showed a decided improvement and a good bit of scale was still gotten out of the block.


The car has done several 2,500 mile round trips to BCA events since. It rarely goes above 185 degrees on hot days.

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My complaint was not that it was cheaply made but it is awfully expensive for what it is. Last time I checked it was $42.00 + shipping from Cal.

I made a similar SS screen filter from a Dollar Store sifter. Price .. $1.00.

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" I had tried several treatments with Evaporust in the system to clean the radiator and block. No success with the radiator but the block showed a decided improvement and a good bit of scale was still gotten out of the block."


Evaporust works on iron oxide which is the resulting product of rusting steel and associated alloys.  Copper corrosion produces cuprite which Evaporust doesn't touch.  If you have iron oxide particles lodged in your radiator then the Evaporust will attack that.

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Oddly enough, I’m not really thinking there’s a clog issue as much as a (the bracket has a small amount of rust in places that lay against the Rad and I can’t tell if it has weakened the shell or not) problem. I asked about the Rad inline filter because I do believe that’s just good insurance for something this old. And I had looked at some of the filters and read mixed reviews. So I was glad to hear another opinion. Hopefully I don’t even have a problem. Just clean and repaint and reinstall. Wishful thinking? Why yes. Yes it is. 

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