ollinger123 Posted May 4, 2020 Share Posted May 4, 2020 Hello Everyone; I have a 1936 Oldsmobile F36 that I'm struggling to get the rear hub removed. It has a knocking sound when the brake is applied. I tried using the hub puller shown below, but it's not budging. Also the owners manual says; Don't use a knock-off tool - use a J626 tool - whatever that is?? I'm afraid of breaking something if I keep hammering too hard. Is this the correct tool to use, and if so will I do any damage by pounding on the puller like I have been doing? Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gossp Posted May 4, 2020 Share Posted May 4, 2020 There will be more advice from others soon, but one thing I always do when getting aggressive with a stubborn hub is put the nut back on at the very end... it will leave room for things to start moving and also: a) keep the hub/puller from violently landing in your lap and b) limit the damage you do to the end of the axle shaft. Beyond that, sometimes you just need to get a bigger hammer. 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Taylormade Posted May 4, 2020 Share Posted May 4, 2020 Make sure you have your brake shoes adjusted in as far as possible so they don’t hang up the drum. Put the puller on - with the axel nut loosely on, as gossip suggested - and pound the arm ends with a sledge hammer. Let it sit there for an hour or so, then bang on it again. Keep it on and continue, letting it sit in between. I had to leave mine on overnight. As I was working on something else in the garage, I heard what I thought was a gunshot. It was the brake drum letting go. It’s going to take patience, but it will finally let loose. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
c49er Posted May 4, 2020 Share Posted May 4, 2020 That is a very very high quality , expensive hub/drum puller and the best one to use. Lube up the puller screw and apply a dab of grease on the flat end of the axle. Mount the puller to the drum evenly and flush. Yes as mentioned leave the nut on the axle shaft loose minus the washer to prevent the drum from popping off the axle shaft possibly landing on the floor or your foot. Also can prevent axle thread flare or damage. Then man up using a 2-1/2 lb hammer. Hit the dog bone using BIG HARD SWINGS...5 to 10 hits the drum will come off if you hit hard enough. I also firmly squeeze my hand holding the drum to the backing plate too to absorb/soak up the hammer shocks. Done hundreds of these over the years as a mechanic. 2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ollinger123 Posted May 4, 2020 Author Share Posted May 4, 2020 Thanks; Is there any risk to damaging the studs, axel, or bearings by swinging too hard? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keiser31 Posted May 4, 2020 Share Posted May 4, 2020 1 minute ago, ollinger123 said: Thanks; Is there any risk to damaging the studs, axel, or bearings by swinging too hard? Not if they are tightened down. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dictator27 Posted May 4, 2020 Share Posted May 4, 2020 All of the above. Make sure the axle nut is flush with the end of the axle and everything is as tight as possible. Then hit the dog bone as hard as you can with at least a 2 pound short handled sledge hammer. Anything smaller is a waste of time. Then hit the centre screw as hard as possible. If it doesn't come loose just walk away. You will know when it does let go because it sounds like a gun shot. Putting the drum back on needs to be done right, too. Make sure the axle taper and the inside of the hub are clean and dry. No oil or grease. Same for the axle key. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pfeil Posted May 4, 2020 Share Posted May 4, 2020 11 hours ago, c49er said: That is a very very high quality , expensive hub/drum puller and the best one to use. Lube up the puller screw and apply a dab of grease on the flat end of the axle. Mount the puller to the drum evenly and flush. Yes as mentioned leave the nut on the axle shaft loose minus the washer to prevent the drum from popping off the axle shaft possibly landing on the floor or your foot. Also can prevent axle thread flare or damage. Then man up using a 2-1/2 lb hammer. Hit the dog bone using BIG HARD SWINGS...5 to 10 hits the drum will come off if you hit hard enough. I also firmly squeeze my hand holding the drum to the backing plate too to absorb/soak up the hammer shocks. Done hundreds of these over the years as a mechanic. Absolutely is a great hub puller. Sometimes I have had things under pressure that the puller will provide and then apply heat with a torch and bang! it's free. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zeke01 Posted May 4, 2020 Share Posted May 4, 2020 Forgive me for asking, but I can’t enlarge the photo enough without distorting it. Are the studs attached to the drum or do they go through the drum to a plate behind it? It looks like they might not be attached to the drum. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ollinger123 Posted May 4, 2020 Author Share Posted May 4, 2020 The studs are attached to the drum Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zeke01 Posted May 5, 2020 Share Posted May 5, 2020 Sorry to distract. Zeke Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Wetherbee Posted May 5, 2020 Share Posted May 5, 2020 My 31 Pierce was the same way and even with tight studs I wound up bending one from stretching. I did what Pfiel suggested, keep the nut loosely on, tension that puller, and by setting two propane torches on blocks pointing at the bottom corners of the hub at cross angles heated the hub. I kept an eye on them while doing something else, that BANG sound made my wife come running, she thought the car fell off the jack stands... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Wetherbee Posted May 5, 2020 Share Posted May 5, 2020 Here’s a picture without the torch, you can see the nut there Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ollinger123 Posted May 5, 2020 Author Share Posted May 5, 2020 Well it worked, I got the hub off! No bang on this one, it just came free after 75+ hammer strikes. Now the reason I took off the hub in the first place is because I was getting knocking sounds when applying the brakes. There is still good material on the liners, but I do see on the right back of the liner where the material is gouged away. Not sure what would cause this, since the drum is in good shape?? Could this be causing the knocking? Any other suggestions on what could cause the noises in the wheel? Thanks everyone for all their help! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pfeil Posted May 5, 2020 Share Posted May 5, 2020 (edited) 37 minutes ago, ollinger123 said: Well it worked, I got the hub off! No bang on this one, it just came free after 75+ hammer strikes. Now the reason I took off the hub in the first place is because I was getting knocking sounds when applying the brakes. There is still good material on the liners, but I do see on the right back of the liner where the material is gouged away. Not sure what would cause this, since the drum is in good shape?? Could this be causing the knocking? Any other suggestions on what could cause the noises in the wheel? Thanks everyone for all their help! Long time ago I had a customer who complained of a knocking / clicking noise on brake application. Everything looked fine until I closely examined the brake drum. It seems that the guy who did the last brake job cut the drums too fast so that instead of a feed of .002 he had cut them at .010. As you know the feed on the brake lathe actually cuts in a spiral going out and if the cut is too fast the shoe will follow the groove in the cut just like it does with a needle on your record. When the needle gets to the end it skips back to the beginning of the last groove. What was happening on the car was when the brake shoe got to the end of the groove it would snap back and cause a knocking sound over and over. I'm surprised your drum has no indication of something grinding on it because of the way your shoe is torn up, however to prove something didn't get in there or not the other shoe might have a similar condition unless that something fell out before damage to the other could be done. Anyroad, I would like to see a picture of the other shoe and the drum. BTW if you can feel grooves in the drum with your fingernail it must be resurfaced. The reason I mentioned using a torch to apply heat is that using it makes less stress on the two components stuck together. Easier on you and the parts. 75 times is a lot of whacks. Edited May 5, 2020 by Pfeil (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ollinger123 Posted May 5, 2020 Author Share Posted May 5, 2020 Below is a picture of the Left shoe. If also has some groves, but not nearly as deep as the Right. Also the inside of the drum is generally smooth, but it does have some slight grooves towards the inside - not the kind of groove that would do that type of damage though. What would you recommend? Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pfeil Posted May 5, 2020 Share Posted May 5, 2020 (edited) I would replace the shoes, check backing plates where shoes ride on the nubs and if they are grooved file them flat and lube with white lithium grease/both sides and turn the drums and when turning I would get rid of that ridge near the bottom. Remember that what you do to one side you must do to the other. Otherwise you will have uneven braking. Edited May 5, 2020 by Pfeil (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ollinger123 Posted May 5, 2020 Author Share Posted May 5, 2020 Any recommendations for places to find shoes for this type of vehicle? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GARY F Posted May 5, 2020 Share Posted May 5, 2020 There is a guy that advertises in Journey with Olds mag. that sells them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philipj Posted July 19, 2023 Share Posted July 19, 2023 (edited) I know you probably have this resolved and together, but the springs on the bottom of your settup are incorrect and wonder if were causing trouble with your shoes moving back and forth.... It should be a single spring GM# 493987 or Raybestos H403... Edited July 19, 2023 by philipj (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pfeil Posted July 19, 2023 Share Posted July 19, 2023 5 minutes ago, philipj said: I know you probably have this resolved and together, but the springs on the bottom of your settup are incorrect and wonder if were causing trouble with your shoes moving back and forth.... It should be a single spring GM# 493987 or Raybestos H403... Not my pictures or set up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now