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On 4/25/2020 at 12:33 PM, Riviera63 said:

 

The bezel to body rubber mounting pads (using Steele's term) are more than just  simple gaskets (the price is for a pair). This is not a case where a gasket is just a gasket. If it was we all would have been making our own. This is a unique molded rubber piece. The back side of the bezel is not flat nor is the body behind the bezel flat. Take one of your tail lights out and you will see what I mean. Speaking from experience this is one instance where one just sucks it up and pays to save headaches down the road. Regardless of what you do, good luck.

 

Bill

For my tail light to body seal I used rubber vacuum hose. It fits in the groove of the chrome and sucks down when brackets are tightened to make a nice invisible  seal. I tested the area with a hose and noticed no water coming in. $7.00 for 6" of hose.....

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$7.00 for 6 inches is $14.00 / foot. How much length is needed for two taillights?

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On 4/25/2020 at 12:33 PM, Riviera63 said:

 

The bezel to body rubber mounting pads (using Steele's term) are more than just  simple gaskets (the price is for a pair). This is not a case where a gasket is just a gasket. If it was we all would have been making our own. This is a unique molded rubber piece. The back side of the bezel is not flat nor is the body behind the bezel flat. Take one of your tail lights out and you will see what I mean. Speaking from experience this is one instance where one just sucks it up and pays to save headaches down the road. Regardless of what you do, good luck.

 

Bill

For my tail light to body seal I used rubber vacuum hose. It fits in the groove of the chrome and sucks down when brackets are tightened to make a nice invisible  seal. I tested the area with a hose and noticed no water coming in. $7.00 for 6" of hose.....

 

It was $7.00 for 6 feet of hose. It took about 5+ feet to go around both. One the first one I glued it to the housing with 3M adhesive and on the second one I just kept pushing it in with a plastic trim tool as I tightened the bracket. Seals great and you can't see it at all.

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Posted (edited)

Figured I might as well post up an update. 

 

I think I have stopped any leaks coming from the taillights with the gasket I bought. 

 

Then I moved onto removing the trim around the rear window and below the rear window.  That wasn't a huge deal except that it would have been 10x easier if GM gave you just a little more room in the trunk to remove those speed nuts.  I was hoping to replace them with a coupling, so you can access it way easier, but the stud on the back side of the trim piece does not look like a standard thread. 

 

I took the trim off the rear window and the silicone that I had put in there about 2 years ago actually looked like it sealed quite well.  The only problem was that it was dirty because nothing stops debris from falling behind the metal trim and just collecting in that area (1st photo).  I already ripped the silicone off (2nd photo).  Is this where you guys were thinking you fill that gap with the Dum-Dum putty?  Or were you guys only using the Dum-Dum putty in the holes?  I'm fine with using the silicone again because I was shocked at how well it sealed.  It basically created one continuous gasket all around the window and even taking it off wasn't a big deal - it came off in long strips.  

 

On the bottom of the passenger side rear glass there was some bubbling paint but luckily only surface rust.  Today I prepped it, and shot it with some primer.  I'll probably add another coat or 2 of primer this weekend.    One of the biggest surprises was finally getting the paint code for my car.  Neighbor works at a Toyota dealer and he had their paint department scan the paint and while all this time I thought it was a Toyota color, come to find out the scanner says it is Monterey Blue (MB744.08), a Nissan color.  I was quite surprised by that.  So now I am looking around to get a can of spray paint and see how that turns out. 

 

One silly idea I have is using 3M UHB double-sided tape to reattach the lower trim piece (the one that is ribbed) below the window instead of using the speed nuts.  If I do this, I can cut the 5 studs off the back and fill in the holes that go right through the body.  The 3M tape is incredibly strong - that's the same type of adhesive that modern trim pieces are held on new cars, so it should hold that part fine, plus it eliminates 5 sources of water ingress into the trunk.  The purists are probably cringing at my idea, I'm sure. 

 

OK, that's quite the lengthy update.

 

Stay safe guys.

 

 

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Edited by Hazdaz (see edit history)
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On 4/25/2020 at 12:33 PM, Riviera63 said:

 

The bezel to body rubber mounting pads (using Steele's term) are more than just  simple gaskets (the price is for a pair). This is not a case where a gasket is just a gasket. If it was we all would have been making our own. This is a unique molded rubber piece. The back side of the bezel is not flat nor is the body behind the bezel flat. Take one of your tail lights out and you will see what I mean. Speaking from experience this is one instance where one just sucks it up and pays to save headaches down the road. Regardless of what you do, good luck.

 

Bill

For my tail light to body seal I used rubber vacuum hose. It fits in the groove of the chrome and sucks down when brackets are tightened to make a nice invisible  seal. I tested the area with a hose and noticed no water coming in. $7.00 for 6" of hose.....

 

I wouldn't advise you to cut off the studs. Use the original "speed Nuts" on them. They are not threaded. The nut cuts it's own threads as it goes on and holds tight which will spread out the dum-dum you've hopefully applied to the stud before install. Be careful-It doesn't take much dum-dum. I used too much and it went out the sides on the paint. Not easy to clean up....As far as the nuts being hard to install-take a flashlight and a deep 1/4" drive socket on an extension and lie on your back in the trunk to tighten. I put a small dab of dum-dum on the end of my socket to hold the nut from dropping into the trunk when starting it on the stud. 

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AND, DON'T over tighten the speed nuts as they will strip & even break the studs off.  These parts are cheap Di-cast metal & are somewhat fragile.

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Only, but a thought. Leave the trunk lid open. Poor a cup of water over the corners of the metal piece in front of the trunk. Watch the corners inside the trunk standing outside of the trunk.

Another tell tail would be rust inside where trunk lid mounts.
Turbinator

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You never did say how old (new) your trunk seal is. Did you try Bernie's trick with the dollar bill? Where is the seam in the trunk seal?

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Posted (edited)
On 4/26/2020 at 2:36 PM, 60FlatTop said:

I wouldn't expect the leak to be in the perimeter of the trunk. That is easily checked by closing a $20 bill between the trunk and seal. A $1 bill for lesser cars.

 

If all has been checked already, my money is on the bolt holes for the ribbed chrome trim below the window.

That is where the water came  in on my car. I used a cup of water poured over the trim piece corners. No US currency needed.

Turbinator

Edited by Turbinator (see edit history)
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  • 4 weeks later...

IMG_20200609_175634634.thumb.jpg.3955c4e23a4824151646c0280e656f04.jpg

 

One more update.

 

I finally got the correct paint and a non-shiny (matte) clear coat put on.  The paint is pretty darn close.  From some angles it is dead-on, from others it is ever so slightly off (the tiniest bit more green).  I tried feathering in the paint as best as I could seeing as how I am doing this all outside.  I reinstalled the trim around the window and reinstalled the trim below the window.  I used that dum-dum putty stuff you guys recommend.  I still feel that there is a special place in hell for whoever invented speednuts, but that is a whole other story altogether.  I have done 2 tests with a garden hose to see if any water is coming in and so far the trunk is dry.  It has only been a few days though so I am not quite ready to say this has been totally fixed. 

 

The pic shows the color match on the paint after my water test.  The rear glass still has some tape adhesive for when I was masking it.  The paint sheen is the only minor issue right now.  When I applied just the base coat, it was slightly shinier than the rest of the car.  I bought matte duplicolor clear coat and that actually was slightly *less* shiny than the rest of the paint which was surprising - I was expecting for it to be too shiny.  Not sure if a little bit of very mild buffing will get them to match better. 

 

So that's where I am at now. 

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