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Jamco Front and Rear Disc Conversion on 1965


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Hello Riv Owners, 

 

I am getting ready to install a new ride tech shockwave kit, rebuilt the front end, install a new quick ratio steering box, and do a disc brake conversion at the same time.  One of my desires is to have drilled and slotted rotors for the look that I am going for on the car, I plan on a US mag PT.2 - U380 wheel so the rotors will be very visible.  With that said I am trying to find the right kit to help achieve the look i am after while also making sure overall performance and quality is there.  I have read many threads on the disc brake conversion kits: Scarebird, Jamco, Wilwood, Performanceonline, etc. and have found that the Jamco front and rear kits are offered with drilled and slotted rotors and seem to be pretty complete kits.  I would like to make sure all of my rotors and calipers are matching which is the struggle with performance online, they only offer a front kit.  

 

Can anyone offer me an opinion on the Jamco kit for front and rears disc conversion and if that is a good route for me to take.  Thanks so much. 

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I can’t speak for the Jamco kit. But a friend of mine did a 4 wheel disc con on his 64. I’ll have to check to see what kit he used & get back to u

 

I’d LOVE to see u start a “Air Ride Install” thread for us. Post lots of pix please 🙏🏼😬

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One thing to consider before you walk this path is the effect it may have on the value of the car.  You can't put a price on your happiness, but the next owner might well put a price on the restoration work required to undo the mods.  IOW, before you spend a lot of time, effort and money turning a $20,000 car into a $15,000 car, be sure that you're going to get enough grins to compensate.

 

And save the parts you take off.  The next guy might want them.

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DON'T USE THE JAMCO KIT.  I JUST GOT THROUGH DOING ONE BECAUSE MY CUSTOMER INSISTED ON FRONT DISCS that he bought.  The parts are designed for an A-Body car. It uses 11" rotors, smaller A-Body wheel bearings & seals, the brackets have to be modified to fit the spindle. The calipers & brake pads are A-Body parts, you have to grind the inner pad to be able to fit the caliper onto the bracket, then you have to drill & tap the adapter bracket as the bolts that hold the caliper on, 1/2 way they are metric thread, the other 1/2 is American, BUT they do provide both metric & American caliper bolts.   The power booster needs the holes slightly enlarged in the firewall so the booster will bolt up. The master cylinder piston cup is too deep. They do provide an adapter, BUT it's too long. Without the adapter you have MAYBE about a 1/4" of brake pedal travel before it hits the floor. Install the too long adapter & you won't be able to move the car as the brakes are locked up tight!!!  They supply a proportioning valve that is big & clumsy & looks totally out of place & takes up too much valuable room. You won't be able to use your windshield washer bottle as the valve interferes. I use a metering block. Very small & compact & it serves the same purpose & can be mounted in the frame where you original split-er is & less brake line bending & modification.The brake hoses supplied are too long.  The calipers are too small but when they were rebuilt, probably in China. they threaded the hole for the banjo bolt metric & crocked so there was no way to get the hose to seal with the washers. I had to trade in those calipers for American rebuilt ones & also buy new Banjo bolts that hold the brake hose to the caliper because they are an American size as it should be. Last but not least what good does an already too small brake system do when approx. 3/8ths. of an inch of brake pad is hanging over the top of the rotor????

BUYER BEWARE!!!!

I've been doing this stuff for at least 60 years & have done all kinds of modifications on all kinds of cars. How many times do you want to pull it apart AGAIN!!!!!  I'm experienced & it took me 2 1/2 days.   I was in his heated garage with a lift with MANY of his tools along with mine & I had to run back & forth to the auto parts store MANY TIMES.  I'm sure if I was in my shop I could of done it a little quicker,  BUT someone who knows very little will get totally frustrated & at that point may be so disgusted the car is now up for sale at probably 1/2 the value.

JUST A CAUTION FROM ME

 

Tom T.

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Go to YouTube and search: Scarebird disk brakes on a Buick.  V8TV shows the complete swap using an adapter and all over the counter OE parts. You'll need to do a drum/disk master cylinder swap as well.  They don't do this on a Riviera but all full sized Buicks are on the same chassis and have the same brakes.

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Thanks for the advice on the Jamco kit, sounds like Scarebird it is.  I will search for some rotors that will fit the 1976 riviera they recommend but with the drilled and slotted configuration.  Also thanks for the advice from the purists out there, I understand my mods wont be everyone's cup of tea, but ive been dreaming of building this Rivi for over 10 years and I want to build it just like I envisioned.  I will definately keep all of the original parts and for the most part every mod I plan on making is a bolt on type so going back to original could certainly be in the cards at some point.  I have (2) 65 Riviera's, one will stay stock and the other will get the mods discussed.  As always thanks to the Forum.  I will also certainly post about the air ride install and some before and after's.  

 

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  • 8 months later...

The Rotors are the same for a 80's "Squarebody" Heavy Half ton.  The lighter trucks had a different setup.  I got mine through Tirerack but Rock Auto also has a solid selection of rotors.

 

Edit: Oops saw the main bit this thread is pretty old.  Hopefully the tip on the rotors works out for someone who runs across this.

Edited by CTX-SLPR (see edit history)
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