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57 Buick light switch wanted


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Hello All,

Its been a long while since I've posted. Many things have happed in the last few years. Anyway, I have had issues with my 57 buick light switch for several years now. Ive cleaned it and it worked for a while probably for a year and back to the same issue. So I replaced with a cheap aftermarket unit. Junk!  Never worked from the start really. So I cleaned the old one and reinstalled. Worked again for a while and its just worn out. Id like to find a good used one or if by chance someone is holding on to a GM nos one. I'm willing to pay a reasonable price. Thanks for your help.

Darren

dchafin1122@gmail.com 

Edited by buicknewbee (see edit history)
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Darren,

12 hours ago, buicknewbee said:

Hello All,

Its been a long while since I've posted. Many things have happed in the last few years. Anyway, I have had issues with my 57 buick light switch for several years now. Ive cleaned it and it worked for a while probably for a year and back to the same issue. So I replaced with a cheap aftermarket unit. Junk!  Never worked from the start really. So I cleaned the old one and reinstalled. Worked again for a while and its just worn out. Id like to find a good used one or if by chance someone is holding on to a GM nos one. I'm willing to pay a reasonable price. Thanks for your help.

Darren

dchafin1122@gmail.com 

 

What doesn't work about your switch?  Just dash lights or other functions?  If dash lights that's an easy fix bypassing rheostat.

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yes its my dash lights. The contact that slides on the spring just doesn't contact like it should. The lights would come on and off if you played with the switch back

and forth but it just quit working all together. I don't take it out at night very often but when I do its hard to see anything. I can figure what your thinking and the lights are too bright when its bypassed. Is that what you had in mind?

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5 hours ago, buicknewbee said:

yes its my dash lights. The contact that slides on the spring just doesn't contact like it should. The lights would come on and off if you played with the switch back

and forth but it just quit working all together. I don't take it out at night very often but when I do its hard to see anything. I can figure what your thinking and the lights are too bright when its bypassed. Is that what you had in mind?

Yes.  I personally always like mine fully bright so it's a great fix for me.  I did this to mine about 10 years ago and it still works great.   If you really want the dimming option, you'll have to take it apart and monkey with it.  Or, consider adding a resistor  to your jumper wire and keep it at your desired brightness always.

 

These switches are very reliable in all ways except for the dash light rheostat.  Even if you get an NOS one you may wind up with issues down the road.  But if you do want to go this route, keep checking Ebay.  They appear periodically but normally sell for at least $150.  Be wary of ones that are poorly stored or don't look new; they may be takeoffs someone stuck back in the box.

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Thanks

I may end up doing just that to fix it until I find a replacement. If I remember right, my switch isn't going to allow me to take it apart again. the ears that wrap around it were getting weak. its been a while but sure that was an issue if I pried into it again.

I haven't looked into my manual to see if the switch has a breakdown of wiring, but while I have your attention do you happen to remember which wires you spliced together?

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6 hours ago, buicknewbee said:

Thanks

I may end up doing just that to fix it until I find a replacement. If I remember right, my switch isn't going to allow me to take it apart again. the ears that wrap around it were getting weak. its been a while but sure that was an issue if I pried into it again.

I haven't looked into my manual to see if the switch has a breakdown of wiring, but while I have your attention do you happen to remember which wires you spliced together?

 

Basically you want to bypass the coil rheostat.  Assuming the connections are good and you can get the solder to stick, you can just cut a short piece of wire and bend it around the outside of the coil, and solder to each end of the coil at the rivet connection.  I did this on my car.

 

Probably a better solution that I did more recently for a friend is to solder a wire to bottom of the connector to for the dash light wire (I think it's the frontmost one, but double- check manual) and solder other end to the tang on back side of coil at the opposite side.

 

In either case make sure you run the jumper wire in such a way that it doesn't interfere with anything moving if you accidentally twist the knob after installation.

 

Get a couple jumper leads and bench test it before you reinstall it.

 

If you can't get it to work I might have one more used switch I can bypass to work.

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