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How did you place oil filter on DA-6


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Thanks for information .

This oil filter will be on my "E" series DB truck and there are two linkages in the way and they are: One for throttle and one for spark advance as shown in my picture.

Your picture is for a passenger car and I noticed the engine shown is a pale green. Do not know if trucks were a universal gray or pale green?

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where is your oil pump ????  the filter, to do it's job has to be where ever the oil line comes from the pump to bearings   not possible on all cars----can you post picture of other side of motor

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1 hour ago, stakeside said:

Thanks for information .

This oil filter will be on my "E" series DB truck and there are two linkages in the way and they are: One for throttle and one for spark advance as shown in my picture.

Your picture is for a passenger car and I noticed the engine shown is a pale green. Do not know if trucks were a universal gray or pale green?

Yes, here are linkages (another person's car). I do not know what is correct engine color for car vs. truck...supposedly when I first restored my car (back in '76) the engine color was a sort of light blue spruce green ..if that makes sense...when I redid my engine Romar had the exact color, so used that.

LINKAGE.jpg

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1 hour ago, broker-len said:

where is your oil pump ????  the filter, to do it's job has to be where ever the oil line comes from the pump to bearings   not possible on all cars----can you post picture of other side of motor

You have to remove oil pan to get to oil pump...there is a screen filter on it. Here's a photo of other side of engine.

1929 dodge right side.jpg

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I will be using the vertical mount oil filter and I have the mounting bracket. I found new canister kit at KaiserWilly Parts. It was used on early military jeeps.

The attached pic is for an old Puralator filter on my DA6. This was the best place I find to place the filter.

 

1326730984_IMG_1156(2).thumb.jpg.3cf705b5a6c2fbbad69872ed54e10781.jpg

 

image.thumb.png.94ff4606afa62ae717dcc36302bdce62.png

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  • 1 month later...

Guys and Broker-Len, If you note the oil pump is inside the engine near where that projection sticking out where the oil pressure relief spring is located and supplies oil to that galley along the side just under the water side plate. That oil exits that galley and 'Ts' where the oil pressure gauge line and the line through the filter and directly back into the block just under where the filter is mounted. The filter has nothing to do with cleaning oil TO the rods, etc. It is a bypass system and filters out 'Stuff' in a direct loop from that galley back to the pan. Just F.Y.I.

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I notice that some installations have the “supply” going into the top of the canister and some into the bottom. What gives with that? Does it matter, or is it dictated by the type, make, of filter can?  Thanks

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  • 2 weeks later...

That's because of the inlet/outlet ports on the filter are by design so yes it depends on the design, type and make. Some have in and out ports built into the top and no ports at the bottom...

 

Here's a factory image from my instruction book that shows yet another DA6 setup from 1930. Note the filter mounted sideways...

 

 

 

 

Oil filter correct 10.jpg

oil filter correct NO.jpg

34.jpg

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Posted (edited)
On 4/17/2020 at 7:53 AM, stakeside said:

Any ideas on best way to place oil filter on my DA-6?

 

 

 

This is what's in the 120 Booklet that I have (thought you had a copy also). As far as I understand it's suppose to be the SA2 model from Purolator but good luck finding one. What you are using is suitable in place of it for sure...

 

 

25.jpg

22.jpg

26.jpg

 

Scan courtesy Harry Wellens

Purolator 1.jpg

Edited by 30DodgePanel (see edit history)
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This is what I used. It is the original filter that was fitted to my DA, it is one with a removable cartridge that can be cleaned (some were not able to be dismantled, ie. throw away type), but modified.

Glenn Smith (Vintage and Classic Reproductions) used to produce a reproduction top that is machined to take a modern filter. Looks just like it did but works a lot better!! I do not see one in his current catalogue, but if he made them once, I would think he would still do so.

First picture shows original dismantled (the three parts to the left, with a "throw away type on the right), second is the one with the modern filter inside, with the Glenn Smith top, on my DA.

DSC01466m.thumb.jpg.edea9f671a6d10a50acc917c59e0d3e5.jpg.

 

DSC01469m.thumb.jpg.d4eca42362e724dc8ed0dc52029b77e6.jpg

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12 hours ago, Bullfrog_eng said:

(the three parts to the left, with a "throw away type on the right)

DSC01466m.thumb.jpg.edea9f671a6d10a50acc917c59e0d3e5.jpg.

 

 

 

Always amazes me that no one has duplicated the exact original Purolator style as the original one with a replaceable cartridge....

I'd love to get my shop setup to make them but I have no idea what the demand would be on them? 

Copyright concerns possibly? 

 

I've even approached a rep with Purolator to see if they would consider the idea of making the exact same design for the antique auto crowd. One that would take replaceable cartridges but of course I never heard back from him in the past 5 years...

 

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Maybe a throw away type like original would be more practical to reproduce and would continue demand. There is a hupmobile thread a few years back that details making this type of filter for use with a hidden replaceable spin on. The unit looked perfect to my eyes.

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Posted (edited)
21 minutes ago, JFranklin said:

Maybe a throw away type like original would be more practical to reproduce and would continue demand. There is a hupmobile thread a few years back that details making this type of filter for use with a hidden replaceable spin on. The unit looked perfect to my eyes.

 

I have seen other quality Purolator designs being reproduced for a small fortunate but nothing that matches the SA2 design... . 

Here are a couple....

https://classicandexotic.com/store/p-4555-purolator-sf-3-filter.aspx

 

https://classicandexotic.com/store/p-4387-purolator-type-a-oil-bypass-filter.aspx

 

 

Edit:

 I did find the Hupmobile thread you were referring to. Different filter but he nailed the concept. 
Thanks again...

Edited by 30DodgePanel (see edit history)
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Posted (edited)

I am going to take a different approach to this. DB decided this engine didn't need an oil filter and they knew the truck was going to be in use every day, or at least they hoped that. You will probably put on about 500 miles in a year's time. Why not leave it the way it is, change to your favorite type of oil and finish the truck and have fun with it? It's kind of like lifting a touring body from the frame. It MIGHT weigh 100-150 lbs. Two guys can lift it off. Some times you guys think too much. 

Edited by nearchoclatetown (see edit history)
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Posted (edited)
21 hours ago, nearchoclatetown said:

 Some times you guys think too much. 

 

With all due respect Doug, I don't think so at all...(wait, huh...)

 

I know what you are saying for all practical purposes and agree that if he wants to delete the filter then your recommendation is, as I said, " practical " and ultimately it's his decision.

 

However, the question is a very legit one and I found the answer and will be posting a explanation with pics shortly to show why the question even came up to begin with. It's a very legitimate question for DA owners that should be answered appropriately IF anyone reading this ever wants to do things the correct way for the historical record. After all, isn't that really what this forum should be for?

There is a part missing from the equation and it will all make sense in my next post. Bob Z posted the part in Post # 6 above of someone else's vehicle that has the part that is missing that will give the proper clearance to avoid hitting linkages. I'll post better photos of that part shortly. Bullfrog also has the spacer part in his post above. 

Edited by 30DodgePanel (see edit history)
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Posted (edited)

@ Sherman:

 

It looks like the original design was put in place for clearance issues, which is what your original question alluded to. Sorry for misunderstanding it initially, for some reason I was thinking you was wanting info on the filter itself... (I had a brain cloud moment).

 

Here are pics of the bracket from a spare DA engine (with original SA2 filter).

Note when looking at the front view (as in the factory literature) it clearly shows a spacer of some kind. This is the spacer you need.

Notice  it has notches that hold the bracket tightly into place. I can get you the measurements in email if you want to make one.

 

 

 

BTW, according to the  the last illustration below, it also looks like you need to relocate your horn IF you are going back to original. It should be mounted to the head as seen in the side view illustration. I'm sure this is part of what is contributing to your clearance issues. The horn needs to be moved back and on top of the head so that the filter can fit into place as well.

 

 

Oil filter adapter (2).jpg

IMG_3500.JPG

IMG_3499.JPG

IMG_3498.JPG

IMG_3496.JPG

Horn side view (2).jpg

Edited by 30DodgePanel (see edit history)
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I completely understand the desire to have a filter. But it's a by pass filter, not much better the a screen like the four cylinder cars have. I would not waste the effort. Besides, as has been said, the right filter elements are difficult to find. 

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It is a hobby, it's fun to wast time and effort to have fun. A bypass filter unlike a screen will filter all the oil over a short period of time. Napa carries many filter cores as well as spin ons for housings that are modified. 

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Final. Not the neatest , but functional. The carb and distributor lineage cause a bit of problem when mounting filter vertical. The horizontal mount above the starter is more desirable.

The decals were available at the Jeep parts supplier mentioned earilier.

 

DBAC3217-C8AA-4AEE-AF34-B98640D2FFEE.thumb.jpeg.e0337a54b43aaf7c35f536b3ea219ceb.jpeg

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What you need is a nice right hand drive vehicle, then your carburettor linkage and steering column will be out the way on the other side! 😉

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