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1932 Buick series 90 heat riser question


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Hello I acquired a 32 Country Club Coupe we got running but had a question in regards to heat riser.  Can you shut it off?, it looks as though the previous owner had welded the pin shut and was by passing.  Will it take away from performance or any hang ups it might produce?  Any info would be great.

thank you Matt

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You do not want exhaust gasses heating the fuel mixture!!  Modern fuels have a much high octane rating than the fuels of 1932.  The best way  to block the exhaust is to remove the  two tubes that run between the carb heat riser and and the exhaust heat riser.  Then put plugs  in place of the outer tube.  I use Freeze plugs and JB weld them in place.  Next you need to make sure that the butterfly valve in the exhaust diverter can't block the exhaust from flowing directly into the exhaust pipe.  Some people just cut the butterfly plates out of the exhaust diverter.  Others block the the valve in an open position by weld, braze or adhesive to prevent it from accidentally closing.  

Your next project is to remove and replace the two tubes inside the heat riser.  These tubes corrode and then interfere with the vacuum in the intake system.  There are several threads on repair and replacement of these tubes.  Be careful,  These casting can easily be cracked and replacements are scarce and expensive.

 

Finally you need to decide on appearance.  If you want the car to look correct, you need to put the outer tube between the riser and diverter back in place.  If you want all the linkage in place, you need to take the brass pin in the diverter lever and drill out the threads so the linkage can slide through without tying to close the valve.  If you aren't concerned about the appearance, just remove all the linkage.

 

I hope this helps.

 

Bob Engle

 

 

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Matt, 

     This question comes up frequently as all our cars need to be upgraded.  I did nothing with my heat riser tube.  Maybe it was still good, maybe not.  I figured if I blocked it off, why would I need to touch it.  Attached is how I blocked mine off.     Hugh

 

 

Edited by Hubert_25-25 (see edit history)
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Bob,

 

Thank you for the information on blocking off the heat riser tube, it looks as though they had the same idea in mind as the car had not been driven since 1982 and was owned at the time by a gentlemen in his 90's.  As far as the tubes inside I do not see any signs of rot or rust as it is the possibility that this was done before they look pretty good.  I am going to hook everything up as he had before and run just like it is as the car will remain pretty much the way I found it, the paint is pretty much gone except for a little bit here and there and the interior was pretty much gutted it shows the skeleton of the car kind of interesting.  I will try to preserve everything that is there as the running gear and drive train were in pretty good shape it spent most of its life in a garage.  I am really looking just to drive the car as much as possible.  I will send more pics if interested and once again thank you for the information, I might have other questions or concerns as I get into it more.  I am also a member of the Buick Club of America. 

 

Thank you again and be safe

Matthew Maya

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We do love pics!!  What series car do you have?  I've been fooling with my 32 Buick for over 30 years.  I ended up doing an at home restoration which has been interrupted with job transfers before retirement.  I decided to do the restoration because of wood rot at the driver side A pillar that left the door flopping around.  

 

Let me know if I can be of any assistance with getting your driver on the road.

 

Bob Engle

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I followed Bob Engles advice to the letter on my 32 96s, be sure to examine the pair of intake tubes in the heat riser as these typically rot away needing replacement. The car runs great, better than when I had the original exhaust to riser open. Send pix!! pm me if you need help.

Steve 

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So she’s a work in progress but does run just cleaning up and put back together c what happens.  Thanks for looking

Matt

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Great looking project,  a bit of work I'd say but when its finished its really a rare car not many people have seen.  Your car is the 8th 96s that I know of.  Are you going to keep it stock? 

Cheers,

Steve

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Yes I am looking to mainly drive the car for a few years and see where it goes from there.  I will leave as you see the engine and drive train are in pretty good condition.  Had it running driving last year have cleaned all parts rebuilt those needed and putting back together.  Not looking to disturb to much.  I always wanted a 30’s Coupe and I’m pretty happy it’s a big car.

 

thanks for looking I am looking for another rim if you might know anyone and any parts supply know.  I also have a 1916 Hudson Touring Sedan center door pretty much all original.  I like to find preserve and drive.  
 

thanks again

Matt

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Nice car mine is 2772689 haven’t got the engine number off hand.  Is that original colors because on an old registration it says color was green.  Wondering if I could get pics of the interior.  Thanks for the pics 

Matt

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Thx, the original colors were St Regents green and St Regents green dark. I can send a chip if needed. My interior was also green mohair, I only had one door panel, if you search 32 buick on you tube you will see Les Anderson's car, that's the original color. I might have a sample left, I gave my door panel to Les for a patch repair. I went with tan mohair for a replacement. Looks good and was the popular choice by the gang. The forum is full of guys with great expertise, I used this forum allot. 

 

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Good Morning Gentleman, I just purchased a 96S as well!  I have been working on this car during the shutdown and I'm excited to get mine sorted out.  It has been in storage for almost 20 years.  Here are a couple pictures of mine.  

 

Dan

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Very Nice Cars you two have their.  I hope that some day it will get there, but for the mean time I think I am going to drive and do slight mods to interior and other areas.  Nothing to shake up anyone I am a firm believer in keeping a car true to its heritage, unfortunately when I bought the car I was not given to much information or pics of the car.  So I am kind of figuring out what next and how to go about colors and the what not, been kind of given a blank canvas.  I might keep the way it is as to were people can see the raw bones of the car it is kind of interesting we shall see.  Good luck with yours thanks for the comments and I will be looking for parts if anyone knows whos got the stash.

 

Thanks 

Matt

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Welcome Dan,  nice car, its great to see another like mine out there, most have been repainted in other than original colors, and Matt just get it on the Road and drive it while you go through it,  most people See it wont believe its a wooden undeerbody frame..Matt and Dan if you need any assistance or when you get stuck, after looking at the forums just pm me.. Ive been down that road of rebuilding every system except the generator ( thats next ).. A few guys to follow are Bob Shaw, Bob Engle and Endinmass Sp?? There is a wealth of info and wisdom by these guys and others on this forum.. I do have a few parts but not many,  I was going to put together a call or email list of fellow 96's owners, its a short list!!  Interested?

Steve

cell 360-320-5778

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Steve,

Sure I am willing to be put on the list.

Matthew Maya Home 802-457-2931 Cell 802-356-7925 and email grnmtbyz@hotmail.com

Thanks

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On 4/14/2020 at 7:39 AM, Robert Engle said:

You do not want exhaust gasses heating the fuel mixture!!  Modern fuels have a much high octane rating than the fuels of 1932.

 

Bob Engle

 

 

 

Can you explain the rationale behind this? It seems counter-intuitive based on what I know about octane. A higher number means it takes more compression/heat to ignite. The heat riser seems like a good thing on a low compression/cold engine.

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I see your logic, my understanding is that the octane in the fuel in the early 30's was was somewhere around 35, the fuel was also fairly unrefined thus the term heavy gas or heavy fuel was comonly used. The compression ratio's of early thirties automobiles was very low as well, my 344 cu in straight eight is 4.75 to 1 producing a whopping 96 hp or 104 hp using a thiner high compression head gasket. So I believe the heat riser helped atomise the fuel for better distrubution as it was being drawn from below the intake manifold. My old tractors with an updraft sometimes need a propane torch to heat the intake manifold to start it in cold wx. So in summary low compression engines combined with low oct fuel  with an updraft carb in cold weather need heat to better atomise the the fuel for smoother running until the engine warms up.  Todays 87 octane fuel seems to work fine in the Buick with the riser blocked off, my riser tubes were rotten thus I had exhaust air mixing with post carburated intake air at the riser, resulting in a lean mixture requiring the use of the choke to get to run ok but not great.  Now if we could only increase the compression ratio, we could make more power!!  

Steve

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