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floppy handle, window crank disassembly?

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Does anyone know how to disassemble the floppy handle window crank found on 1946-1948 Chryslers. I have the one with the plastic insert on the end of the floppy. I would like to disassemble and get them re-chromed. I also have a couple apart but cannot figure how to reassemble. Handles like those in pictures attached Thanks

floppy handles 1.jpg

floppy handles 3.jpg

floppy handles 2.jpg

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Push the tiny pin into the plastic insert...then pull the plastic insert out.

The flared over pivot stud needs to be drilled out to remove the lavalier floppy handle. You will need to make new pivot studs to re-assemble.

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Thanks for the response. I am confused. "flared over pivot stud"? there appears to be a pin in the end of the handle with a spring around it, as if the pin is like the pin on a watch that holds the watch strap. If the pin is the "pivot stud" how is it drilled out? If the pin is removed, how would a replacement be reinserted? Thanks for your help. 

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Pivot stud 1st and 3rd pics.

3rd pic shows flared over end. Some flared ends of the stud are just flat.

Somewhere I have the plastic insert to show but can't find it.

This is now an easy project to take these apart and then get them back together tight and operating like new.

A very costly and hard part to find piece in good condition. 







Edited by c49er (see edit history)
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Thank you for your time and the pictures.

I worked for some time trying to hammer the pin through the floppy handle and into the plastic. I used various sizes of nails that I ground down  to a flat tip. I do not have a punch that small in diameter. No Luck. The pin would not move in but about 1/8 inch. It appears that the pin may need to be drilled out and down to the plastic. I presume the pin in one side is all that holds the plastic in.

Regarding the floppy assembly, I see in the 4th picture a hole drilled into the side the chrome to get the pin out? Once the pin is out the floppy will separate from the handle, and the movable part within the end of the handle through which the pin passes will come out of the end of the handle? 

I guess after chroming the hole drilled through the chrome to remove the floppy pin will have to be filled with something and painted over to doctor the appearance.

Have I got it right?

I would think that there would have been some design to allow for pin removal. I cannot see how the pin, spring and handle end were put together originally.



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You have to use a very high quality correct sized punch .060" to push that tiny short pin down .330" so the plastic can be removed. I used a stubby .060" punch when I had to take one apart.

I never had to drill the pin out.

Be careful when removing the plastic insert as the plunger and spring could shoot out or fall out upon removal.

There is no other hole than the tiny pin insertion hole....060".

In pic #4 it sure did look like it. I 

re-posted better pics of the floppy chrome part.

Also you have to carefully grind down or drill out the end of the swivel pivot shaft stud as that's necessary to remove it from the handle shaft. Be careful not to damage the cup spring washer.

With the plastic insert pulled out of the floppy the swivel stud and cross pin with  2nd spring will come out.

The pin you drove into the plastic insert is there forever.

To re-install the plastic insert flip it over opposite what it was...

Insert it into the re-assembled handle...drill a new .060" hole down into the plastic...insert a new .400" long .060" pin back through the original floppy pin hole just flush as original.

The plastic insert is the very last part to install when re-assembling one of these handles. The swivel stud,spring plunger etc.all has to be installed first.

I'll let you decide when and how....

I'm wore out. 

These handles were never made to be taken apart and repaired. You bought a new one at the dealer.

The handles I just took apart were missing the plunger and correct spring...very common. These handles could be easily worn out if not carefully lubed and used gently.

Pretty but not practical.

Some more pics.







Edited by c49er (see edit history)
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Thanks again for your detailed response. I really appreciate it, as it seems you have had the experience with these. I am in no hurry to get your responses, so do not feel the need to rush. But, if you would be so kind, I need a little more help, clarification and have some questions about wording, i,e., “plunger and spring”?  “spring cup”? “shaft stud”?

You stated “Be careful when removing the plastic insert as the plunger and spring could shoot out”. Are these inside the floppy housing?

Is the end of the swivel pivot shaft stud on the back side of the handle opposite the floppy? As shown in pictures #3 and #4? In picture #3 it seems to still be in place, but the floppy is not attached.

What is the spring cup? Cup spring washer? Is that behind the “shaft stud”?

Will the swivel stud and cross pin with 2nd spring come out through the floppy, out the plastic insert end?

On reassembly, what do you do to hold the swivel pivot shave in place, after grounding down the stud holding it on place?

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If your floppy handles all feel tight.. not loose and they actually feel like the floppy spring works (holds/ pulls  the floppy) back against the handle then all your handles should have all usable parts..

*Flipper spring

*detent plunger

*detent plunger spring

*handle swivel pivot shaft bore not loose/worn

*swivel pivot shaft not worn

*swivel pivot shaft cupped spring washer (small tension washer ...keeps firm tension on swivel shaft while turning floppy). Right under flared end of shaft.

The detent  plunger and spring fit into a drilled 3/4" deep hole hole in the plastic insert. Helps keep the floppy under firm spring tension when you grab/ use it.

When the insert is pulled out of the chrome floppy housing the plunger and spring will want to come out possibly fast...watch it.

"Will the swivel stud and cross pin with 2nd spring come out through the floppy, out the plastic insert end?"

.........yes it will

I have both drilled and tapped the swivel stud using a 6-32 screw and re-flared same to retain and tension the swivel stud. Re-flaring is very difficult to do properly.

Parts are not available unless you are good at sourcing them from commercial sources. Don't damage the good parts you have.

This is not an easy project unless you are mechanically well skilled and have total confidence going in head first!

My pictures are of one real nice complete original handle and pieces from three cores...none had the plunger and springs...I laid out just to give you an idea what these handles consist of.

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I am glad to see that you received such good, accurate and clear information here in the Chrysler forum.  I do not have a WPC product but always enjoy reading the posts here.  These are great guys.

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Once again, thank you so much! You have explained the terms and process very well, and with pictures even. As you stated, “This is not an easy project unless you are mechanically well skilled and have total confidence going in head first! I do, now with all so clearly explained. I think patience and slow going will be key.

To clarify: To re-assemble, I will need to drill down the end of the and put a small, 6-32 screw. I am not familiar with “Re-flare same to retain and tension the swivel stud”. For me, the problem will be tapping the drilled out end for the screw. Possibly I can screw the screw into the drilled out hole tightly to hold it in place. Alternatively, will the screw and a washer in the end hold the cupped spring washer in place on the end of the swivel pivot shaft?.


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Yes...just barely enough to push the shaft out of the handle....once down to the little washer...remove it and see if it will push out...if not continue just enough till it will push out. Grind it flat as you go as you will need some of the shaft to still stick up beyond the counter sunk hole in the handle.

This so you can drill and tap or re-flare the shaft end to retain it firmly but still able to rotate that shaft with out excessive looseness. The cup spring/ wave washer on it when new always keeps tension on the shaft so there is no loose shaft play.

Hopefully you can reassemble just as tight as it was before you have taken it apart.

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