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Working on the non running 1923 - no spark


Andy69
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I rebuilt the carburetor and yesterday I had a chance to try to start it. Had some issues with too much gas in the carb but I think I have that straightened out.  Wasn’t able to get it running, although it turns over ok.

 

Today I turned my attention to the ignition.  There is no spark.  Went through the usual - checked plug wires, points, timing, etc.  I have 6v at the switch side of the coil with the ignition on and I can hear it running.  I checked the resistance across the various terminals on the coil and they are all zero.  My hunch is the coil is bad, unless there is perhaps something I’m missing with this particular system.  
 

any chance in Hades I can find a replacement?

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I only run a modern coil with an internal resistor on my '15 truck.  Eliminates one possible failure point on touring.  Here is an example from Amazon.

 

  • D5TE12029AB New Internal Resistor Ignition Coil 6V to 12V for Ford New Holland
D5TE12029AB New Internal Resistor Ignition Coil 6V to 12V for Ford New Holland
 
Price: $20.00 + $5.99 shipping
Specifications for this item
Brand Name RAPartsinc
Item Weight 3.00 pounds
Number of Items 1
Part Number ELI80-0008
UNSPSC Code 21100000

Edited by Larry Schramm (see edit history)
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23 hours ago, Larry Schramm said:

I only run a modern coil with an internal resistor on my '15 truck.  Eliminates one possible failure point on touring.  Here is an example from Amazon.

 

  • D5TE12029AB New Internal Resistor Ignition Coil 6V to 12V for Ford New Holland
D5TE12029AB New Internal Resistor Ignition Coil 6V to 12V for Ford New Holland
 
Price: $20.00 + $5.99 shipping
Specifications for this item
Brand Name RAPartsinc
Item Weight 3.00 pounds
Number of Items 1
Part Number ELI80-0008
UNSPSC Code 21100000


I may actually have one of those.  I’ve got a bunch of Ford/New Holland coils that I can barely give away. I thought they were all 12v but I’ll have to sort through them and see.

 

edit: I have at least one with that part number.  A quick google search indicates descriptions that run the gamut from 6v 12v internal and external resistor or no resistor.  I’ll have to see what the parts book says.

 

handy reference in that respect is www.fordpartswiki.com

Edited by Andy69 (see edit history)
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OK, I have a D5TE-12029-AB coil.  

 

It's labeled "use with external resistor".  Correct me if I'm wrong on this, but if I use this on a 6v system without a resistor, it should produce about the same voltage to the points, given the purpose of the resistor is to cut the voltage down.

Edited by Andy69 (see edit history)
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An external resistor is cheaper than a coil.  When you first energize the coil, it sees full voltage until the resistor heats up from what I understand.  The external resistor is going to make the coil last longer.  I thought the job of the condensor was to minimize the arcing in the points.  

Just a note that in the long term, you want to get it right because if you are running the original points, they are getting very expensive so you want to make sure they last.

 

For now though, you don't have to mount the coil to see if you are getting spark.  Put the coil in the circuit.  Rotate the engine until the points are open on any lobe.  Turn on the key.  Hold the coil wire near the block and cross the ignition points with a screwdriver tip.  If it jumps a spark to the block, the ignition system is firing.   I am assuming that the point gap has already been set, and that you may still need to set the timing.     

Hugh

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