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My semi-quarantine project.


jframe
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Did valve cover gaskets on my 65 this weekend and a little BillHirsch spray bomb touch up on the 70k mile engine. Not too bad from a spray can. Need to pull the intake and carb next so I can paint the intake and valley pan cover, and try to get Doc Modisett to do his dual plane mod, if I ever get to cross a state line to get to his place.

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47 minutes ago, RockinRiviDad said:

JFrame, u can do the Doc mod yourself. I plan to do it if I ever take my intake off. I shoulda did it when I did my EFI 🤦🏻‍♂️
 

There is a step-by-step sticky thread for the Doc mod on the V8Buick forum 

 

BTW, your engine bay is looking good. Keep it up

I saw that on V8Buick, but he lives maybe an hour from me, so I thought, what the hell, may just do a small road trip one day and see if he will do it himself. That is, if the brown shirts ever let us travel again. 

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This being 2020, the square bore 4BBl obviously offers more choices than a Q-Jet or ThermoQuad. But I have fond memories of a bone stock 1966 401 with the spreadbore Q-jet and that Waaaa when the secondaries opened. So, the dual plane mod, lots of talk and an improvement no doubt. But performance wise, how does it compare to a well setup Spreadbore intake and carb?

That '66 401 would do 20 mpg on those little primaries and torch the tires with those secondaries. And that waaaa from its ugly air cleaner!

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On 4/6/2020 at 3:32 PM, jframe said:

I saw that on V8Buick, but he lives maybe an hour from me, so I thought, what the hell, may just do a small road trip one day and see if he will do it himself. That is, if the brown shirts ever let us travel again. 

If I read his thread on v8buick correctly, he sold a manifold with the mod already done for $75.  Might be worth contacting him to see if he's got another laying around -- then you could just do a quick pick up.

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12 hours ago, KongaMan said:

If I read his thread on v8buick correctly, he sold a manifold with the mod already done for $75.  Might be worth contacting him to see if he's got another laying around -- then you could just do a quick pick up.

He has  mine done; I am going to try to pick it up this afternoon.

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30 minutes ago, RockinRiviDad said:

Doc posted a pic On FB of the latest one he did. Maybe it’s yours? Fingers crossed 🤞🏼 haha 

Yup, that one is mine. Put the pushrod cover back on last night with a new gasket and just snugged it down; don't figure it needs much torque.

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It was a valve cover gasket job that sent my '60 Electra to me.

 

A doctor owned the car and decided to fix the leak. He broke the rear valve cover bolt. So he drilled the bolt ot put in an EZ out. The drill bit went off center, went through the casting, and into the head water jacket. Once the green fountain stopped he installed the EZ out and it broke. Being hardened he couldn't drill out the stub. The car sat in the garage for two years while he and a friend contemplated getting the EZ out.... out.

A job transfer came up and he pt it on Ebay for $900 Buy It Now. I figured I could get my money back from the front clip. The rest of the parts would be profit.

 

"Thank you for filling me in on the situation with the car I just bought"

"Glad to help."

"By the way, are you a surgeon?"

"Why, yes, how did you know?"

 

Bernie

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 4/10/2020 at 5:01 PM, 60FlatTop said:

It was a valve cover gasket job that sent my '60 Electra to me.

 

A doctor owned the car and decided to fix the leak. He broke the rear valve cover bolt. So he drilled the bolt ot put in an EZ out. The drill bit went off center, went through the casting, and into the head water jacket. Once the green fountain stopped he installed the EZ out and it broke. Being hardened he couldn't drill out the stub. The car sat in the garage for two years while he and a friend contemplated getting the EZ out.... out.

A job transfer came up and he pt it on Ebay for $900 Buy It Now. I figured I could get my money back from the front clip. The rest of the parts would be profit.

 

"Thank you for filling me in on the situation with the car I just bought"

"Glad to help."

"By the way, are you a surgeon?"

"Why, yes, how did you know?"

 

Bernie

Amazing. I’m getting fair at removing broken bolts and studs from wheelcovers. The cast aluminum is soft and the steel bolts hard. I have to be careful when I use the acetylene torch to heat the cast aluminum and the bolt. I removed 4 studs just yesterday that required heat. I like those helicoil things, they are good.

Turbinator

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Hopefully you won't experience what I just went through.  Broke off a rusty screw trying to remove it.  Got the drill bit centered on the screw and it started eating away at the screw. Opps! A little too much torque and the drill bit broke off down in the hole.  No way to drill out a hardened drill bit.  Drilled a new hole and was threading a self-tapping screw into it and that screw broke. It too was hardened so no drilling it out.  Finally a third hole and I used a tap instead of a self threading screw.  It was a tight area and no way to turn the handle that came with the tap. A few days later a ratcheting tap handle came in the mail.  A 30 minute job took only 4 days. But all is well.  I'm learning that patience is a good thing.  Had I of taken the time to hit the screw with a torch in the first place , I would have finished in 35 minutes. 5 minutes to get out the torch was too much extra time - at that time. As my grandmother would say in her German influenced English "Too soon old; too late smart."

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8 hours ago, RivNut said:

Hopefully you won't experience what I just went through.  Broke off a rusty screw trying to remove it.  Got the drill bit centered on the screw and it started eating away at the screw. Opps! A little too much torque and the drill bit broke off down in the hole.  No way to drill out a hardened drill bit.  Drilled a new hole and was threading a self-tapping screw into it and that screw broke. It too was hardened so no drilling it out.  Finally a third hole and I used a tap instead of a self threading screw.  It was a tight area and no way to turn the handle that came with the tap. A few days later a ratcheting tap handle came in the mail.  A 30 minute job took only 4 days. But all is well.  I'm learning that patience is a good thing.  Had I of taken the time to hit the screw with a torch in the first place , I would have finished in 35 minutes. 5 minutes to get out the torch was too much extra time - at that time. As my grandmother would say in her German influenced English "Too soon old; too late smart."

Ed, unfortunately, I’ve experienced what you just went through with many cast aluminium wheelcovers. Each time I mess up a stud mount it costs me to take to a shop for TIG welding. I’ve acquired sufficient arsenal of broken bolt removal tools. I just bought a door hinge center screw hole drill. The drill is encased in a barrel that can slide in the hole where your broken bolt lives. The tool will level the broken bolt in the hole. Next you can drill dead center in the bolt to start a pilot hole for a left hand drill bit. Get the pilot hole in the broken bolt and use your left hand drill bit to hopefully back it out. If that doesn’t work you can try an Irwin bolt extractor I’ve had good luck using. Like all we correspond about is how to achieve a work task on a car. I’ve learned there are many ways to do a job. I prefer the best way. It takes a life time to master this mechanical stuff.

Turbinator

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With no car cruises for now, I keep looking to fix things that aren't broke on the Riviera. I changed the flexible brake hoses and found the dates on the old ones were January of 1983. One less thing to worry about. 

 

Kevin 

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 4/22/2020 at 10:32 AM, kegart said:

With no car cruises for now, I keep looking to fix things that aren't broke on the Riviera. I changed the flexible brake hoses and found the dates on the old ones were January of 1983. One less thing to worry about. 

 

Kevin 

Kev, if you want the car to do anything you would hope it would stop. I finally fixed the warped glove compartment door to fully close.

i bought a farenheit thermometer that is one inch circumference I hope to place on my side view mirror I can easily remove. I got the hole drilled in the floor board over the transmission for the oil pressure and water temp gauge. I drilled a hole 1 3/8” in diameter in the floor board to accommodate the copper tube rubber hose wrapped leads for the gauges. I got the gauge firmly planted in the ashtray. I replaced the re-core original heater core because it was leaking. While I had stuff apart I decided to check the vacuum actuators for proper operation. I tested a single port waste gate vacuum actuator that worked very well with one problem. I could not get the stroke of the actuator and swing of door to work together to fully open the door. I changed one bolt hole on the heater box and then retapped all the threaded 1/4” x20 ‘s. I decided to use socket head fasteners when fastening the heater box to the fire wall. I’ve spent time cleaning the engine bay. Powder coated all the brackets and holders, bolts, etc. I broke the fan shroud in two places and managed to fit it back to original in one piece. I have to finish sanding the reinforced repair and paint the thing. I’m cleaning all the nuts and bolts that hold stuff in the engine bay that makes sense to me.  No show car just clean.

Turbinator

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