Jump to content

Buick Roadmaster 1950 Dynaflow front leaks


Recommended Posts

20 minutes ago, Sergio Santos said:

hope is not a major job  just replace gaskets in place  👍

 

Very very doubtful you won't have to remove the trans. ...............................Bob

Link to post
Share on other sites

You might remove the front inspection plate and try to tighten the bolts holding the torque converter cover. But it could help the community if you respond to a few questions first:

1- have you had this car long? And if so, is this a recent development?

2- does the transmission work in forward and reverse?

3- have you put stop leak products in the transmission in the past?

 

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

John  , I just purchased the car march 10  2020 , the seller told me that it had a small leak and  he just keep adding oil , on he's drive way I didn't see  signs of oil  leaks ,  the car drives and  shifted well  and is in very good conditions with 46.560 original miles  , trailer it  from Jacksonville  to my home in FT Lauderdale next day drove it about 2 -3 miles no problems  , let the car running in idle to charge battery and notice the oil pouring from transmission , ask the seller he sad he never had that kind of leak  , I did not added any thing to stop leaks  don't know if he done in the past .

Link to post
Share on other sites

Sergio,

 

I agree with John, remove lower (flywheel) inspection cover and look with a flashlight or (inspection camera then you could video tape it, if you don't have one you could rent it from home depot) to see where leak is coming from. If you replace front pump seal I would also replace bearing/bushing for input shaft because they wear and shaft will have up and down play that will contribute to your leak, that will need to remove transmission from vehicle. Also inspect the torque converter end that make contact with front pump seal that it is not scored up, that would damage the replacement seal.

 

group # 4.224 seal, front pump oil  part # 1171657

 

group # 4.123  bearing/bushing input shaft part # 1168262

 

I hope this helps you.

 

Bob

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites
4 hours ago, JohnD1956 said:

Either the torque converter cover seal or the front pump seal. 

You would replace both when working on the transmission.  The transmission will need to be pulled from the car.  Your service manual will give details.  I did this on my 55 last year:  HERE

  • Like 3
Link to post
Share on other sites

I agree with old-tank, just pull the rear end back a little for the transmission to clear the torque tube, when transmission is being lowered out of car. I did this in a garage, I put 4 jack stands under car, to support car by FRAME, then used a cable winch puller,(see harbor freight haul-master cable winch puller) and wrap one end around end of torque tube and the other end around rear bumper brackets OR rear frame, that bumper brackets attach to, then ratchet it back.

IMG_3010.JPG

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm with JohnD1956  on this, it looks like a pressure leak (ie)  the front pump seal. Shut the motor off and see if the flow slows down. Either way the transmission has to come out. Don't forget to check and replace the pilot bushing before the transmission is reinstalled. Dropping one of these Dynaflows is only as hard as one makes it and is not as bad as it seems. Read up on it and be safe and take your time doing it . Just my 2 cents worth.  

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites
16 hours ago, Sergio Santos said:

Wow !   I see it now  , to remove the transmission you need to remove the rear end  , big job  some shops gave me the  estimated   from $1,500 to $3,000 including parts ,  that is the going price for this job ?

 

It is not that bad.  I have pulled both rears from my Buicks twice each and by myself.  Did not need a come-along or an special tool to remove the rear axle assembly .     Not sure if you have the facility to do the work yourself.  It is not that difficult.  However, that transmission is a heavy one.  Small trans jack will be very helpful.        

Edited by avgwarhawk (see edit history)
  • Like 1
  • Thanks 2
Link to post
Share on other sites
45 minutes ago, Sergio Santos said:

 wow! Twice you must be an expert by now , I don't have the facility  now I may have to pay a transmission shop.

I know each wrench and socket size required to move the rear axle on my 54 and 60.  I do mine in my garage.   Please get a repair manual for the garage that is willing to do the work.  Kits for the transmission rebuild/or just the front seal are available. 

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

One last piece of advice Sergio. If you do decide to take it to a shop or transmission shop take it to one that understands and has worked on Dynaflows(more than a couple). Most shops today imploy guys young enough that they weren't born before the Dynaflow transmission ceased to be. I've run into this problem working with some shops that I've tried to do business with. As mentioned above get a manual and read it so YOU have a working knowledge of what the job takes and what it does not. Finally if you lend the shop your manual be sure it comes back with the car. Good Luck whichever way you choose!!!  

  • Like 3
Link to post
Share on other sites

Sergio, from your YouTube I see you are in Brazil.

 

Here are two car clubs that Old Cars Weekly listed. Contact them to tap their knowledge of a shop that could possibly help. They are not Buick specific but may broaden your local support group.

 

All Eras Youth Auto Club, R. Cardeal Joseph Cardjin I66, 13063-430 Campinas S.P., Brazil. Lillian Ohswald.

Antique Automobile Chevrolet Club of Brazil, R General Ataliba Leonel. 573 02033 000 Sao Paulo SP, Brazil. Claudio Borrego.

 

Be sure to change and flush the rear end lube on your car before you start driving it. If it hasn't been driven much over its life it can build up a lot of condensation and the bearings won't take the water. That's a commonly overlooked and unnoticed problem.

Bernie

Link to post
Share on other sites

Before you start pulling the tranny, did you check to see if either of the 2 torque converter drain plugs are loose ? Remove the bell housing cover and you'll see them, 180 degrees apart. Maybe that's the leak source, if you're lucky.

 

IMG_1143.thumb.jpeg.5a478ddacd48cf1e53ad1cc285109f25.jpeg

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...