Voltage regulator in a 64

[bodayguy]

I've gone through three now. I've tried the expensive ones, and the cheap ones. I mean, I think the ground gets screwed up sometimes too, but anyone have experience with these? Not all that interested in paying $50 for the Delco one again unless you all think it's miles better.

[Jim Cannon]

I'm sure I can help you with this.

 

I'd like to hear more from you about how the VRs that you have tried have failed.  What are their manufacturer names, model numbers and price if you can remember.  What failed on them? How did you decide each was bad?

 

Were the VRs that you used that failed mechanical or solid state (fully electronic)?

 

If you used mechanical VRs, did you check their output voltage and adjust it, if required, to put out the correct charge voltage?

 

Did you have your alternator checked for output and for all good diodes?

 

Is your fan belt(s) to the alternator tight?

 

Have you checked for parasitic drain of the battery?

 

HTH.

[bodayguy]

I have issues with the ignition sticking 'ON' when you crank the engine. Mechanic diagnosed it down to voltage regulator. One of his failed, and he replaced it. I have since bought the fancier Delco one, but it buzzes in a z-z-z-z pattern and is clearly broken. Sometimes the wiring to the starter even smokes a little! 

 

So I put one of the older voltage regulators back on, but basically I think I should get a fresh one again. I have a feeling I am shorting it out or something (mainly because of long cold start cranks).

[Jim Cannon]

OK, what you have is a starter solenoid that needs to be cleaned and greased, or replaced.

 

 

[bodayguy]

It has a new starter solenoid on it. Maybe it wasn’t installed well, but we changed that.

 

I’m giving it an oil change next week. While I’m under there I will take a look at the solenoid area and see what I find.

Edited March 19, 2020 by bodayguy (see edit history)

[KongaMan]

How's your battery?  I had the sticky starter for a while, then replaced the battery (which was 11(!) years old).  Problem solved.  Might still be related to the solenoid, though (incomplete engagement, etc.).

 

I also had a wonky VR a while back (probably still have it).  I bought it together with some "high output" alternator.  The amp light stayed on until you got over 1000 RPM.  Putting the old VR back on solved that.  Subsequently discovered the alleged 100 A (or whatever it was supposed to be) alternator was also substantially less than advertised.  In retrospect, not one of my better purchases.

[Turbinator]

On 3/19/2020 at 12:14 AM, bodayguy said:

It has a new starter solenoid on it. Maybe it wasn’t installed well, but we changed that.

 

I’m giving it an oil change next week. While I’m under there I will take a look at the solenoid area and see what I find.

Body guy, I can chime in the selinoid. To the quick- a starter rebuilder used a “weak”  selinoid when did the rebuild. The replacement was bad the first time I tried to start the car. I bought a heavy duty Eklin selinoid from NAPA. All is well.

BTW, the bad selinoid would stick on when  I tried to turn off the starter. Good luck on running down the bug.

Turbinator