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Interior progress this weekend


71GS
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They wouldn't have put the foil on the veneer for no reason... And I think I may know why.

 

I owned a '68 Eldorado for many years.  This car also had genuine wood veneer on the instrument cluster and the door panels.  The cluster veneer was only used in 1968 - a one-year only thing.  Replacing it with rigid Formica laminate was out of the question, because the OEM veneer fits into a curved recess along the bottom of the instrument cluster.   Luckily, this "Dash Board Woodgrain Applique" was and and is still sold ($60) by USA Parts Supply.  I was happy to buy it because it would have been beyond my ability to cut all the circles and rectangles and size it correctly out of a piece of veneer.  Yes, the OEM veneer was foil-backed, and the reproduction applique was not.

 

The reproduction applique was sold as a 'bare', die-cut unvarnished piece of veneer, with no foil backing.  I had to varnish it before gluing it to the pot metal dash with contact cement, which I did after patiently scraping the old foil-backed veneer off and removing all traces of old glue.  I used a Varathane epoxy-based varnish anticipating the veneer applique would be subject to varying levels of humidity.  

 

All looked great for a while, but after a couple of years the veneer began to crack and peel back from the cluster.  It was very difficult to re-glue it back on.  I toyed with using a syringe with glue, etc. but nothing would work for long and soon enough the veneer would be peeling back again, in more areas.  

 

I suspect the foil backing is meant to compensate for the varying degrees of expansion between dissimilar materials.  The chromed pot metal underneath would expand and contract at a different rate than the wood veneer.  I'm guessing the foil somehow buffered the rate of expansion so that the veneer wouldn't crack in the process.  

 

I haven't examined the Riviera veneer kits being sold.  Do any of them come foil-backed?  If not, then why would the factory do this? 

 

Veneer applied to a flat surface would probably not have the same issue I had with the curved dash/cluster applique.  So, maybe this isn't an issue with the kits sold today?

 

I'd be curious to find out how well the wood veneer kits have been holding up many years after installation?  As our cars aren't likely to see much exposure to wild swings in temperature, and are kept in garages, perhaps the veneer kits will (hopefully) last a very long time.

 

 

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 3/15/2020 at 8:30 PM, 71GS said:

LED bulbs throughout. 

Brian


great work Brian & great thread. 
 

I bought my LED’s from the same place u did. Bought mine 1-2 years ago. When I finally installed them I realized I may have bought the non-dimming version. 
 

Can u dim your dash lights with the headlight switch?  

 

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On 4/12/2020 at 2:45 AM, RockinRiviDad said:

 

Can u dim your dash lights with the headlight switch?  

Hey David, thank you, sorry for the slow response. Yes mine do dim with the headlight switch. 

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2 hours ago, PWB said:

Absolutely gorgeous.

 

Its a (breathable) fabric, right?

 

Fantastic work.

 

Makes me want to let a cat loose in my car and tear my vinyl 

to shreds.

 

 

Thanks Paul. I’m excited. He does really nice work and used to own a 65. 

If anyone is interested, the old deluxe vinyl covers were in good shape. The rear was nearly perfect. would be good driver quality stuff for anyone whose covers might be torn up.  I only did this due to a broken side spring in the drivers seat. Once I realized the fabric was available, I just went all the way.  

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7 hours ago, 71GS said:

Just got these from my Upholstry guy. He’s hoping to be done this week. I’m loving this. Clark’s Materials. Bob Snively Upholstery Richmond Indiana.

http://www.rasnivelydesigns.com

  Enjoy 

 

 

2 hours ago, 71GS said:

Thanks Paul. I’m excited. He does really nice work and used to own a 65. 

If anyone is interested, the old deluxe vinyl covers were in good shape. The rear was nearly perfect. would be good driver quality stuff for anyone whose covers might be torn up.  I only did this due to a broken side spring in the drivers seat. Once I realized the fabric was available, I just went all the way.  

 

Those seats look great!

 

I had a set done locally, a LONG time ago. I did not get the period correct fabric, but I liked the idea of cloth seats too. Those have long since been removed, but I still have the covers. That is the '65 I am going a different direction with, my 100 year plan.

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I have a friend who manages a local Advance Auto.  The store has a huge collection of vendor catalogs which show many parts that don't show up on their computers.  He found a couple of older motor mounts for my stepson a few years ago in the Anchor catalog. You might check their website to see what they have available. 

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4 hours ago, Rivman said:

 

 

Those seats look great!

 

I had a set done locally, a LONG time ago. I did not get the period correct fabric, but I liked the idea of cloth seats too. Those have long since been removed, but I still have the covers. That is the '65 I am going a different direction with, my 100 year plan.

Randall, Thank you. I’ve always liked these vintage fabrics. I think they will be comfortable in the summer and I like that they are “different “ 

Would love to see your 65, with this lockdown, you may complete your plan in 50 or less🤣

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9 hours ago, 71GS said:

Randall, Thank you. I’ve always liked these vintage fabrics. I think they will be comfortable in the summer and I like that they are “different “ 

Would love to see your 65, with this lockdown, you may complete your plan in 50 or less🤣

 

Ah, I’m not too sure, even with the lockdown, I will get to that one any sooner, or even at all? It has pretty much taken a back seat to a couple of the others I would like to get worked on.

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8 hours ago, Rivman said:

 

Ah, I’m not too sure, even with the lockdown, I will get to that one any sooner, or even at all? It has pretty much taken a back seat to a couple of the others I would like to get worked on.

🤣 I understand that. I’m down to one hobby car and it seems to be the best for me. I’d love several,  but know they would likely just sit most of the time. 
I never thought I’d sell my 71, thought I’d just add a 65. So far I’m content and it kept me busy all winter. The 71 went to a great home with Chris. Cjp69. 

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1 hour ago, 71GS said:

Thanks Chris. How are you doing? How’s the 71 treating you? 
Brian

C4A4CDDC-9DE6-40EA-AE08-5D0FC52A8AB7.jpeg

Doing fine Brian, thanks for asking!  Had the 71 out this last weekend.  Didn't take a picture, but here is one from after I put whitewalls on it. 

 

 

 

1971 Riviera.jpg

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9 minutes ago, 71GS said:

Picked up my seats today. More to come👍😁

9B4C9854-F930-4D4C-AE88-B1E7DD42844C.jpeg

Absolutely gorgeous.  Makes me want to get my '65 GS off the back burner, get the silver paint laid down, and swap out the black vinyl for this tabric.

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25 minutes ago, RivNut said:

Absolutely gorgeous.  Makes me want to get my '65 GS off the back burner, get the silver paint laid down, and swap out the black vinyl for this tabric.

Hey Ed,

Thank you,  I love it, he did a nice job. Hope to get  installed tomorrow. 

Would look great with silver paint👍

 

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Absolutely gorgeous Brian! But that seat is too far back. Little ones will complain back there. LOL

When I post my '63 interior pix, yes leather, but the '65 veneer, wood wheel, rear arm-rest and your parcel shelf. Awesome!

That parcel shelf a fiberglass version from Clark's?

John B.

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8 hours ago, XframeFX said:

Absolutely gorgeous Brian! But that seat is too far back. Little ones will complain back there. LOL

When I post my '63 interior pix, yes leather, but the '65 veneer, wood wheel, rear arm-rest and your parcel shelf. Awesome!

That parcel shelf a fiberglass version from Clark's?

John B.

John, thanks. No little ones over here, that picture is all the way back and tilted back also. So much better for me😁

The shelf is fiberglass, but was in the car when I got it so I don’t know where it came from. 

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Very cool thread. Excellent work. Someday I hope to have my interior as nice as yours. I am 1/3 of the way there. 

 

A detail in your pix that I have a question about are your front seat floor brackets. I like how u have them mounted over the carpet. I am assuming u did the same to the passserger side. I like it. Not that it matters, but is that how they were mounted from the factory?

 

CFB4AF93-0F17-41FC-88B8-BD7E7DB7DC6B.jpeg.124cb9726695f7bd7be7551629142a02.jpeg

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Thanks for the nice comments. Appreciate it. Actually drove the thing tonight. Felt good except my gas gauge is pegged full now. Used to work perfectly, which was nice. Have to run that down. 

Dave, I think originally the carpet is cut out in the front. I had Clark’s leave mine alone since I set the seat back. I figured the rear was bolted through the carpet so it wouldn’t matter

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13 minutes ago, crowvet said:

damn, it look SOOOO good. 

 

😁thank you Daryle. Appreciate that. I love it.

Have you been out driving yours any?

The new foam sure sits up higher than it used to. But I did have a broken side spring. Hoping that it breaks in some. Guess I’ll just have to drive it a lot. Lol. 

Finishing up the door panels now, I have a sneaky little touch for those coming...

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On ‎4‎/‎18‎/‎2020 at 8:51 PM, RivNut said:

Absolutely gorgeous.  Makes me want to get my '65 GS off the back burner, get the silver paint laid down, and swap out the black vinyl for this tabric.

I was thinking the same for mine lol! My interior is in such good shape; it would almost be a shame to do it though.

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10 hours ago, 71GS said:

Thanks for the nice comments. Appreciate it. Actually drove the thing tonight. Felt good except my gas gauge is pegged full now. Used to work perfectly, which was nice. Have to run that down. 

Dave, I think originally the carpet is cut out in the front. I had Clark’s leave mine alone since I set the seat back. I figured the rear was bolted through the carpet so it wouldn’t matter

You may just have a missing or bad ground on the sending unit wire.

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7 hours ago, jframe said:

You may just have a missing or bad ground on the sending unit wire.

Yeah that’s my first thought. Weird thing is I’m almost positive it was working correctly, not pegged full, when I first put the cluster back in. Not sure what could have changed since then. Thanks for the suggestion 

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19 hours ago, 71GS said:

😁thank you Daryle. Appreciate that. I love it.

Have you been out driving yours any?

The new foam sure sits up higher than it used to. But I did have a broken side spring. Hoping that it breaks in some. Guess I’ll just have to drive it a lot. Lol. 

Finishing up the door panels now, I have a sneaky little touch for those coming...

Yes I have been driving it. My seats sit high now as well, and I had broken springs that I repaired with these upholstery clamp doo hickeys. They kinda creak now, but so do I. I just replaced my fuel tank sending unit and now my gas gauge only read 3/4 when full. Found a broken strap on my old one. I soldered a new wire to it. Guess I will be pulling the tank again 

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I'm like David except a little more than a 1/3. I'd like to think 2/3s complete.

Alright, I'll go ahead and post a pix or 2 from a week ago but was hoping to post more recent images. Didn't progress much since. While everyone here made progress this weekend, I helped my son installing a 'done-up' S54 engine in his M3. He is the one who twisted my arm to bring the Riv out of a 25 year sleep. Then his tastes changed, hence the BMW M3 and others!

 

My '63 had a totally trash black interior from top to bottom with 2 speaker holes hacked in each door, busted-up console and a hacked-up dashboard wiring harness. I did a complete colour change from my parts to red. I changed everything, headliner to dynamat under the carpet. I only had only one dash piece to paint red, a bang-on colour match. The new Pwr-Brake and E-Brake pads were molded a little off in colour (too light). New kick panels and sill plates are in. Still do do, is to drill out aftermarket seat belts (17/32"?) to work with the original anchors. Then door panels, speedometer once I fix the electro-cruise and of course the bucket seats. The Console was an utter $hit show. I blame the remaining deficiency on the dash not being 90 degrees perpendicular to the console or specifically drive-shaft tunnel.

 

I went into this thinking "just throw in an interior and be done". Little did I know fixing things like a turn signal switch, clock, AM/FM Delco radio, snapped die-cast HVAC levers and cables, rusted-out fuse panel all had to be brought back to life! I took a break from the interior to fix the wiper motor and blower motor, also NG!

 

Oh, where do you source a Fuel Tank P/U & Sender assembly? . . . . anyone?

Daryle, "upholstery clamp doo hickeys"? What do they look like?

 

DSC03270.JPG

DSC03271.JPG

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On 3/28/2020 at 6:44 PM, 71GS said:

Possibly, my thought was the foil back allowed them to use contact type glue on the veneer to glue to a metal surface. Can’t use that on bare veneer. That’s why I glued my unbacked, to a paper backed  veneer..Who knows. Would have been nice if it was still available like that. 

😁

So back to our veneer Wood panels, am I missing something? The '63 has it just on the doors and rear quarters, Thought I'd have an easier go at this with less to do.

 

The molding around the veneer appears impossible.If I could persuade the 1st section off, I could slide off the long sections. I've used all kinds of pry tools including those handy plastic prys for auto trim.

If I were to proceed , I'd not only damage the molding but destroy it. On top of that, my 1963 wood veneer is not that bad. So, if it ain't broke . . . . However, my reason for replacing the door wood veneer is that I have power vents and my panels I have holes for vent cranks.

 

I've read threads on this for 1965 Rivieras. Could it be 1963 is different? The moldings wrap around the back side of the panel and won't lift as per instructions ("Removing Wood Veneer" and  Schmiddy's website).

 

I'd much appreciate it if someone could enlighten me on these with maybe images of the back side. Thank-You,

John B.

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Hope this helps. Here is a pic of my backing plate with the wood & trim taken off. There are tiny tabs protruding up that have a death grip on the sharp stainless trim edge. Take two of your plastic pry tools, one next to each tab. U only need to slip the tool in under the trim enough to free trim from that tab. U can see it happen. U will need to leave the pry tool in place, holding trim up away from that tab. Then take a little tapping block & tap trim off with your pry tools still in place. Done. 
 

hope that makes sense
 

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