zagato Posted March 2, 2020 Posted March 2, 2020 I bought another TC, this one a low mileage 16V out of Atlanta. My last TC was a V6 and my experience with the 16 valve is nil. I have the Chrysler dealer repair manual, for the TC, but it does not specify how to gain access to the distributor. Can anyone share some information on this? I also want to put new plugs in it and it appears that the valve cover gasket should be replaced as I noticed a small amount of engine oil at the bottom of each spark plug as they sit before being removed. Which brings up another question; what size socket is needed for the spark plug?
Hemi Dude Posted March 3, 2020 Posted March 3, 2020 15 hours ago, zagato said: I bought another TC, this one a low mileage 16V out of Atlanta. My last TC was a V6 and my experience with the 16 valve is nil. I have the Chrysler dealer repair manual, for the TC, but it does not specify how to gain access to the distributor. Can anyone share some information on this? I also want to put new plugs in it and it appears that the valve cover gasket should be replaced as I noticed a small amount of engine oil at the bottom of each spark plug as they sit before being removed. Which brings up another question; what size socket is needed for the spark plug? As you can see, the distributor is only inches below from the Intake manifold.The spark plug and coil wires have 90degree boots as they exit the cap, for clearance. IF you have access to a lift, you can do anything you commonly need to do on the distributor from THE BOTTOM, under the car. If you do not have a lift, you will need to remove the intake manifold. They show simple and easy looking pictures in "The Book", but it is not easy. A '5/8" spark plug socket' is used for spark plug removal and installation. It's a matter of gaining access to the distributor which I can only explain in many words, contact me. 1
Reaper1 Posted March 3, 2020 Posted March 3, 2020 There's a thread on here regarding NEW valve cover gaskets that were made by a member/owner. They are very good quality and better than the stock ones IMHO. Joel is his first name (I can't remember his last name now). You can sometimes find them listed on eBay.
Turbo Kane Posted March 5, 2020 Posted March 5, 2020 (edited) I’ve waited a long time to offer mechanical advise because I’m not a self proclaimed expert. I just know how to get the job done. Here’s what I found works. From underneath loosen the distributor adjustment hold down screw. Then from above get a very long #2 Phillips screw driver. Move the distributor advance or retard to access and loosen the 2 distributor cap screws. From underneath reach up and lift cap off with wires still attached and fish it over towards the battery. Change out what you want (plug wires, cap, rotor) then replace in the same fashion. Super easy to do. Don’t forget to set your ignition timing. Tighten screw from underneath. With the engine running at opp temp unplug the CTS. Then above you’ll need a timing light and I use a long rod with a hammer to lightly tap the distributor adv or retard till set at 12deg. Shut off engine and connect CTS. Also a good idea to reset your AIS at the same time. After making all adjustments disconnect and reconnect battery allows the computer to adjust. If your not sure how to reset you AIS I can walk you though it. Edited March 5, 2020 by Turbo Kane (see edit history)
Hemi Dude Posted March 5, 2020 Posted March 5, 2020 I have verbally conferred with zagato regarding his questions, so any further replies on this thread are unnecessary. Thanking all those who have put in their 2 cents worth.
Turbo Kane Posted March 6, 2020 Posted March 6, 2020 What’s totally unnecessary is removing the entire intake manifold to remove plug wires, cap and rotor. It’s possible and very simple to do the work in 30 min or less. If you don’t believe me I’ll post a video and teach anyone who might care. You can teach an old dog new tricks you know. 2
Reaper1 Posted January 26, 2021 Posted January 26, 2021 I posted this trick in its own thread I think, but, if you take the AC compressor off of the bracket and set it aside, you have PLETNY of room for distributor activities. No need to take the intake off. I had to use this trick to get the fuel rail off of mine to replace the regulator.
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