BetsytheRiv

Power Window/Seat wiring - 65 Rivi

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Greetings fellow Rivi lovers!  I'm going bat crap crazy with my power window/seat wiring.  My uncle did a lot of hinky wiring in Betsy and now I'm getting to fix it...  She originally had manual seats and windows but my dad and uncle got the harebrained idea to put in power.  They are both e-bay nuts so who knows what they found and installed.  I've scoured the wiring diagrams in the various manuals and got the Fuse/Vacuum/Wiring and AEA wiring spec diagrams too thinking maybe that'd give the answers but I'm really scratching my head on the wire gauges.  Diagrams say all are 18 gauge unless noted otherwise.  I can see the red feed to the breaker is 10gauge but I don't see any notations of increased gauge elsewhere in the harness.  My limited knowledge and google search results confirm 40 amp should be 10 gauge (assuming less than 10ft).  I've got a door full of colored 14 gauge going to motors and switches (confirmed gauge by taking it to local wire supply when I second guessed myself) and a red 10 going to the breaker.  It should be noted the 14 gauge colors are not color-correct to the diagram which has me now second guessing everything, including whether all the properly colored spools of 14 gauge I purchased were the incorrect gauge for application...  (yes I know logically I should have confirmed the gauge here before purchasing a box full of correctly colored new wiring...). I desperately want to put my door back together and stop borrowing my friend's 73 VW bus to get to work but I just want to do it safely.  HELP!!  Please and thank you. :)   (Re-wiring the seat is 2nd priority now as I can leave that stationary since I'm the only one who drives it)

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I've found that the best source for wiring windows and seats is found on the back of the big laminated color coded wiring diagrams you can get off Ebay.  Separate diagrams for the seat and the windows/vents.

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Wire size is determined by a the load they are feeding. But in all honesty , you need to find someone that understands electrics. Trying to do wiring over the internet is going to be very difficult especially because you are not dealing with factory wired seats and windows. That can be a challenge even for the experienced wireman. Sorry i could not be of more help.

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The only 10 gauge wire in the window system of a factory power window car is from the battery to circuit breaker which was mounted on the wall behind the left kick panel.  Then 10 gauge from the CB to  to the  drivers window switch, all other switches worked off that power and all remaining wire was 14 gauge.

The system never maxes out at 40 AMP, the breaker would 'shut off power' when the motor reached its travel limits and then reset once you released the switch.

 

With all that said, you dont have a factory window set up and how your system works can be drastically different.

 

If your system runs off a 40 amp fuse and you keep popping it, there is a fault in the circuit, either a motor drawing too much or whatever the failsafe is when the motor reaches max travel is not working.

 

My suggestion is to get into the door wiring, so you can run the motors off a stand alone power source, most of us use a cordless drill battery to run window motors for testing.  test each motor individually and see how they operate and work your way backwards.   Hook your power source up at switches, do the switches perform just as good as directly to the motors.  If not your switches are bad, then step back to the fuse connection and jumper that. applying your power to the window side of the fuse and ground the frame and see how the windows work.  Its the only way to systematically figure out which link is the weakest in your set up.

Someplace in your set up there has to be some 'safety' that when the window reaches its max travel, the motor shuts off.  Either internally or externally.   something else to consider is when your fuse pops, as soon as you try to move, or when you reach max travel or somewhere in between.  Is it just a specific window or direction causing the problem.  Are the window tracks clean and does the window have the best chance to move up and down smoothly

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On 2/23/2020 at 8:15 PM, arnulfo de l.a. said:

Wire size is determined by a the load they are feeding. But in all honesty , you need to find someone that understands electrics. Trying to do wiring over the internet is going to be very difficult especially because you are not dealing with factory wired seats and windows. That can be a challenge even for the experienced wireman. Sorry i could not be of more help.

I appreciate the reply.  I agree it's a tricky business and I called my electrician friend for his $0.02.  

 

On 2/23/2020 at 9:11 PM, alini said:

The only 10 gauge wire in the window system of a factory power window car is from the battery to circuit breaker which was mounted on the wall behind the left kick panel.  Then 10 gauge from the CB to  to the  drivers window switch, all other switches worked off that power and all remaining wire was 14 gauge.

The system never maxes out at 40 AMP, the breaker would 'shut off power' when the motor reached its travel limits and then reset once you released the switch.

 

That's what I was thinking but the seed of doubt was planted and down the rabbit hole I went.  I appreciate the help!  Back to the garage I go this week...

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Be happy with the 14 ga.  In fact, you might even need 12 ga.  18 ga. is too small.

 

BTW, wiring diagrams and installation instructions for the windows and seat are in Section 8 of the Body Service Manual.

Edited by KongaMan (see edit history)
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