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Rally wheel color


jframe

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I lnow this has been discussed into the ground, but I am wanting to know if there is a definitive color that can be MIXED for my 65 with rally wheels. I want to go back to the original 65 shade of gray from the black they are now. Dropped off two of them at the body shop last week for them to start. I have read and researched here some, but all I saw was a rattle can solution, such as Eastwood Gray. Does anyone know of at least a very close color that can be mixed?

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JFrame, the color I’ve heard for the 65 Rally Wheels is known as Shadow Gray. The rocker panels for the 65 are suppose to be Shadow Gray. I’m going on what I’ve heard from a person I would say is a 40 year expert on parts.

Im trying help here with a piece of info you can go forward on.

 

You probably know this, but different states have different customs and regulations regarding chemicals /paint, etc. I found a auto supply store in PA that will scan your color from a FLAT shaped item. The colored piece piece you want scanned must lie flat on the counter for the scanner.

Sherwin Williams auto paint in Towson MD could not mix flat/matte black car paint.  Can you believe that? They tried to mix the flat black but gave me a gloss black.

Confirm with someone who is in the know on the ROA Tech specialist list on the Shadow Gray.

 

Turbinator

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No need to reinvent the wheel where (no pun intended). Just use #285 Rebuilders Cast Finish Gray or Seymour Cast Blast gray. Both are nearly identical and are an excellent match for the 65/66 and early 67 wheels. even if you did find a formula for mixing the paint there will be variation due to the constant changing of ingredients to meet EPA regulations and availability. 

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  Buick published the paint mix formula in a `66 or `67 service bulletin but Jason is correct in that the ingredients are long obsolete.

  Regarding rattle can paint in general...I recently had a conversation with antique auto component rebuilder who insists on having his "chassis black" mixed at a local paint supplier. His reasoning based on feedback from his customers is that rattle can paints are heavy on pigment and short on carrier or solvent. They are heavy on pigment to get "up front" coverage but the lack of solvent in the mix causes their product not to flow out well, masking details like stamped part numbers, etc...and resulting in a finish that doesnt hold up well to repeated cleanings.

  I`m not a paint expert, just passing on the info he provided.

Tom Mooney

Edited by 1965rivgs (see edit history)
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Mr. JSFRAME (for lack of a name) if you'll check the "Tech Sources" page in the latest Riview, you'll find the contact information for Carl Blackard. He's the ROA Tech Advisor for Paint and Body.  He sits on the tech panel at every ROA meet.  If you're not an ROA member, then I don't know how to help you.

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10 minutes ago, RivNut said:

Mr. JSFRAME (for lack of a name) if you'll check the "Tech Sources" page in the latest Riview, you'll find the contact information for Carl Blackard. He's the ROA Tech Advisor for Paint and Body.  He sits on the tech panel at every ROA meet.  If you're not an ROA member, then I don't know how to help you.

10-4, I'll check him out. I am a member; #15032

Thanks,

Mark

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On 2/17/2020 at 8:59 AM, 1965rivgs said:

  Buick published the paint mix formula in a `66 or `67 service bulletin but Jason is correct in that the ingredients are long obsolete.

  Regarding rattle can paint in general...I recently had a conversation with antique auto component rebuilder who insists on having his "chassis black" mixed at a local paint supplier. His reasoning based on feedback from his customers is that rattle can paints are heavy on pigment and short on carrier or solvent. They are heavy on pigment to get "up front" coverage but the lack of solvent in the mix causes their product not to flow out well, masking details like stamped part numbers, etc...and resulting in a finish that doesnt hold up well to repeated cleanings.

  I`m not a paint expert, just passing on the info he provided.

Tom Mooney

Tom, I talked to a Body Fender shop owner, who has been in the biz most of his working life, about rattle can paint not holding up.

The gent agreed that generally the rattle can paint doesn’t hold up as well as two stage cured paint work. The gent went on to say UPOL makes super rattle can products he uses for primer spot repair. I bought some UPOL aerosol primer and the stuff is really good.

If, time and inclination to powder coat comes up powder coating is a great way to go. I powder coat the webs and sides on the vanes on the 63/64 cast aluminum turbines and they turn out real good for ease of care and wear.

Good topic.

Turbinator

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8 hours ago, TallJohn said:

Just saw the paint formula you want in the Riview Vol 3 #2 page 10. hope that helps...

Mr TallJohn, thank you for searching out a tall order. Some of this information is real hard to find, but you went right to the place get the info.

Thank you

Turbinator

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  • 2 weeks later...

I'd say that powder coating really isn't necessary.  The wheels on my Riviera appear to have the original charcoal paint and look very good.  The painted area is pretty well protected and isn't prone to stone chips, etc.  Any scratches are usually caused by careless wrenching on the lug nuts...

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45 minutes ago, Ted "Wildcat65" Nagel said:

Has anybody used the mask for the wheels available on eBay?  

Also thinking about asking a powder coat expert if the finish could be powder coated,  

ROA 1690 Ted Nagel

 I have not, but it didn't take long to mask off my wheels with blue painter's tape  and cut the profiles with an Exacto knife.

 

 

 

 

 

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On 3/1/2020 at 9:26 AM, Ted "Wildcat65" Nagel said:

Has anybody used the mask for the wheels available on eBay?  

Also thinking about asking a powder coat expert if the finish could be powder coated,  

ROA 1690 Ted Nagel

I’m not a powder coat expert, but I’m getting experience powder coating. Prismatic Powders has a phenomenal selection of colors for powder coating. Prismatic will send a sample of whatever color you want for $6. The sample comes in a couple of days.

Turbinator

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I just finished 5 wheels for my 66GS . Followed Jason Zerbini's advice ( always good! ) of the Seymour Gray Cast rattle can . Taped them with blue tape. Very pleased at color - taping is another story but good enough for government work.

KReed

ROA 14549 

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1 hour ago, kreed said:

I just finished 5 wheels for my 66GS . Followed Jason Zerbini's advice ( always good! ) of the Seymour Gray Cast rattle can . Taped them with blue tape. Very pleased at color - taping is another story but good enough for government work.

KReed

ROA 14549 

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That really looks good! What size redlines did you go with?

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