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I’m also working on wiring.  Lots and lots of wiring!  I’m chasing a short in the gauge lights or sender circuits.


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And that means crawling underneath.  It’s actually kinda nice under my bus, the ground clearance means I can even sit up in some places.

 

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I gave the old stateside Korea vet some subdued decoration, and the best occasion-appropriate message I could think of, for last Friday’s somber anniversary.  Trying to draw block letters in pseudo-cursive was strange, but it got the feel I wanted.

 

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-Steven

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Thought I had the Dodge finished up, so I went to fire it up so I could get it out of the garage for some nice photos.  Hey no big deal it drove in the garage and started nice when I got it.  Grabbed my little squirt bottle of gas (dad was down) so he sprayed some in and I cranked it over.  Nothing.  Tried it a few more times,  still nothing.   Not even a stumble.   Must not be getting spark,  So I pulled my handy dandy spark checker out.  Nothing.  So I checked to make sure I had power to the coil as I had messed around pretty aggressively trying to free up the ventilator swing arm and had a bunch of stuff out under the dash.  Maybe I knocked a wire loose.  Nope I had power,  so I double checked the points and coil.  All good.  Pulled one of the plugs and cleaned it as it was sooted,  then decided to just see if the plug itself was firing (that spark checker for some reason doesn't work right). I had good spark across the gap in the plug.  OK.  I took a squirt of gas right down the plug hole.  Well that should atleast fire that cylinder.  Dad cranks it over and nothing. Now that makes no sense. 

Now I have cranked it over enough short bursts it's starting to build oil pressure. I start poking around a little more.  Actuating the carb I don't get a single squirt of gas.  By now there should be some gas in the carb. 

Well the battery is getting pretty tired by now,  so I pull and charge it,  then go ahead and clean the rest of the plugs.  Can't hurt right. 

Put the battery back in (dad's gone home by this time so I get my wife to crank it).  Only three  things she helps with, rolling the starter over,  bleeding the brakes and pushing the dead carcasses around the garage. 

She rolls it over,  I spray in a few more good blasts of gas,  still not a single pop. 

I chat with a buddy online he says that is strange,  try some carb cleaner just a little squirt and it should fire unless,  then he goes on a list of extreme problems it could be,  but I can rule out pretty much all as it has good vacuum while cranking and it ran/ started well about 8 months prior. 

I give it a little shot fires instantly then of course stalls.  I said wait a minute why won't it fire on the gas then.  I go dump the little bit of gas remaining in the squirt can and fill it with fresh.  The gas that was in it smelled fine and was about a year old,  nonethanol.  Fires instantly on a squirt of that.  So the whole time it was just dead gas in my squirt can.  (crazy) 

But wait why didn't it finally pull gas from the tank and fire on that? I pull the fuel line and the fuel pump is DOA.  I even found a box for a new manufacture fuel Pump from NAPA in the trunk with a near new pump in it that is dead,  so it's not the first one to crap out and the one on it is probably the new one that came in that box.

What are the chances of that scenario? 

I guess always make sure the gas in the squirt can is very fresh from now on. 

Time to get a new pump ordered in.  The flexible fuel line is also rough looking so I'll replace that while I'm at it.  

That gas was so dead in my squirt bottle that there was a puddle of it under the carb in the bottom of the intake manifold.  I pulled the carb and sopped it all up.  

Hopefully by the end of the week the darn thing will be running. 

 

I'm beginning to think it doesn't like me.

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My spare parts department....two green tubs = Model T parts, two navy tubs = Model A parts. Any cast iron parts or sheet metal I do not stock as many guys in my area have barns full of that stuff and are happy to sell what I would need.

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Jeff's garage looks like mine does in my mind... 😁

 

Put 30 or so shakedown miles on the A over the weekend with marked improvements in stopping, steering, cornering and ride overall.  About the only project remaining before winter is a decision on motor mounts, return to stock, or correct the float a motor as I am missing the trans mount they include with the float a motor kit installed sometime in the past.  I get some drivetrain vibration right around 30 mph (none under or over) which I understand either correction should fix.  That, and fixing a couple of minor rattles like the floor plate that covers the steering column & driver's door are going to do it this year. 🙂

 

 

Edited by Steve_Mack_CT (see edit history)
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Have been plugging away with my Nash to get running after a 9 year slumber.

An evening here and a weekend there and it is running/starting dependably but the gas tank needs to come off, brakes to be checked and... there is a bad noise in the rear end.

Anyone have a few days they can spare?

 

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Today and for the past 3 days?  Scraping, cleaning, and sanding oil/grease from an unpainted wheel on the 1920 Cole Car.  Trying to decide if it's salvageable or not.  No splits or cracks, but one small piece of wood came out at a seam.  Also found several very small knots...probably only been like that for 100 years.

 

 

RF Before.jpg

Right Front 01.jpg

Right Front 01 cropped.jpg

Edited by George Cole
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Got the wheel sanded and ready for marine varnish.  It's supposed to be here tomorrow.  I noticed there were 2 incorrect bolts in the outer wheel hub...the ones with the square heads.  The bolts connect the inner and outer hub plates, with the wooden spokes sandwiched in between.  On closer inspection of the rear hub plate, those same 2 bolts had incorrect square nuts.  At a quick glance they looked okay, until I used a pick and cleaned all the crud out the inside of the nuts.  I discovered the nuts were barely threaded on the bolts.  I removed both nuts.  Each nut had 5 internal threads...one nut was held on by 2 threads and the other by 3.  And both of the nuts/studs were stripped.  The bolts should have been 2 3/4" long, but were only 2 1/2.  My guess is the short bolts were used because there was insufficient clearance between the inner hub and spindle to allow for a 3" bolt.  So rather than cut 3" bolts down to 2 3/4, someone just used 2 1/2" bolts, which didn't expose enough threads for the nuts.  So they barely started each nut, stripped it out, and left it that way.  But the potential for disaster didn't stop there.  The holes for those bolts were 7/16" in diameter.  The bolts were 3/8".  Hate to think what might have happened had they failed at highway speed.  The wheel would likely have come apart.  I have no idea how long it had been that way, or if the car had been driven in that condition as I have been unable to find any history on the car prior to it being advertised in Hemmings about 6 months ago.  The good news is that it will be fixed correctly.  And I will definitely be inspecting everything else on the car much more closely.  

RF Outer Wheel Hub w-2 Incorrect Bolts.jpg

RF Inner Wheel Nut 1.jpg

RF Inner Wheel Bolt Threads 2.jpg

RF Inner Wheel Bolt Clearance to Spindle.jpg

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George, common problem with old cars that have had some hack tractor mechanic working on it.After many years......I never trust any wheel or tire work to anyone but myself. You can never inspect a 100 year old car too much........nice catch. Looking forward to visiting with you soon.👍

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28 minutes ago, alsancle said:

I like the maroon John.   Is there still a chassis stamp over on that right front frame rail?

The color is 1972 Mercedes 280 SL Dark Red 542 - which is pretty dead on to 1936 Cord Rich Maroon.  

Yes, the Chassis Number  is on the frame rail on the passenger's side - they are stamped probably close to 1/2 inch tall

Edited by John_Mereness (see edit history)
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  • 3 weeks later...

Bit by bit on the Pontiac, a buddy of mine is working on the 57 sheetmetal.  It has now new floors, rockers, rear metal under and around the trunk, and the roof is fully rust repaired and smoothed.  Soon to put new quarters on the 57 and new wiring in the Pontiac.  

Maude new wheels-tires.jpg

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