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Tuning ‘55 322 issues


jw1955buick

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The pump looks like it will work...leather will last longer.

Check ball retainer thing:  "dude, you're screwed":o...maybe, maybe not.  I have buggered them myself.  I used a drill bit with tip ground flat in a good variable speed drill until I got enough out to pry with a homemade tool; some came out when the drill grabbed.  Just don't let the drill touch the sides!

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  • 1 month later...

took carb apart bench tested the acc pump with some gas, squirted fine pushing it up and down, good steady stream out of the two top nozzles, when I installed on the car, it doesn't work like that, it stumbles hard right off the bat, if you increase throttle super super slow it comes up as it should but if you try to apply in any normal fashion, it instantly stumbles. I pulled the little pump cover off and noticed when I tried to give it gas, the needle bar setup was popping right up at the same time it bogged, loosing vacuum with piston perhaps, when I increased throttle real slow, the needle bar came up slowly

Fuel line checks out clean and fuel pump is putting out a real good pulse of fuel so am I loosing vacuum somewhere? Still hard to start but idles okay once you get it. Help please

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The "top hat" check valve in the WCFB generally requires a special tool.

 

http://www.thecarburetorshop.com/Carter_tools.htm

 

Scroll down to T109-279.

 

No, I am not trying to sell you one. I wanted to show the picture to then be able to paint a word picture, as the tool CAN be fabricated if your machinist skills are sufficient.

 

The end of the tool looks like a pipe die. It is tapered from large diameter at the bottom to small diameter somewhat higher up inside the tool. The inside of the tool is threaded like the die.

 

The tool is used by sliding something with a hole (the handle end of a large adjustable end wrench will work) over the tool, and the threading the tool on the OUTSIDE of the "top hat" after the center post has been broken. Once securely screwed onto the top hat, use the handle end of the adjustable end wrench like a slide hammer against the cross bar at the top of the tool to remove the top hat.

 

It works, EVERY TIME!

 

I doubt very seriously you will get much service from that imitation accelerator pump.

 

EDIT: For those who might wonder about the price of this tool compared to other tools on the list. Carter did NOT include this tool in ANY of the Carter tool kits. It had to be ordered separately, and it was VERY expensive at the time. Because of the cost to Carter, Carter superseded T109-279 with T109-290 (no, I don't have one of these pictured, it was also available only ala carte). Unfortunately, the T109-290 DID NOT WORK maybe 40 percent of the time, and T109-279 was still required.

 

Jon.

Edited by carbking (see edit history)
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I was able to stake that cover down, what was interesting was the hole the check ball is in, it looked a little tight, I guess it just goes up and down slightly, anyway, that wasn't a big deal. I bought a very old carb kit on ebay and used the leather pump in it hoping to make the difference, no change whatsoever.

So is the idea so far improper acc pump seal? where does the vacuum come from to hold the vacumeter piston down against the spring?

Edited by jw1955buick (see edit history)
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6 hours ago, carbking said:

Mike - the needle-nose pliers will work maybe 50 percent of the time. The other 50 percent you twist out the center bar. The T109-290 mentioned above is similar. Will try to find one in my inventory tomorrow and picture it.

 

Jon.


Believe, I’ve done that. Then had to dental pick the remainder.  I was just throwing my two cents in. Especially since my T 109-290 is currently not owned by me. 😁

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The website has been updated with a picture of the other tool, but due to the technology challenged photographer, difficult to see.

 

Here is a better picture:

 

http://www.thecarburetorshop.com/T109-292U-1.jpg

 

Actually, the part number for the complete tool is T109-292U, which consists of T109-290 and T109-291. 

 

Jon.

Edited by carbking (see edit history)
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The website has been updated with a picture of the other tool, but due to the technology challenged photographer, difficult to see.

 

Here is a better picture:

 

http://www.thecarburetorshop.com/T109-292U-1.jpg

 

Memory gets worse daily! Here is an article on this subject I did several years ago, and completely forgot:

 

http://www.thecarburetorshop.com/Carter-WCFB-check-ball-tools.htm

 

Jon.

Edited by carbking (see edit history)
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14 hours ago, jw1955buick said:

I was able to stake that cover down, what was interesting was the hole the check ball is in, it looked a little tight, I guess it just goes up and down slightly, anyway, that wasn't a big deal. I bought a very old carb kit on ebay and used the leather pump in it hoping to make the difference, no change whatsoever.

So is the idea so far improper acc pump seal? where does the vacuum come from to hold the vacumeter piston down against the spring?

 

No offense meant, but is the pump DISCHARGE check valve in place?

 

The ball is the intake check valve; the discharge check valve should be under the center screw in the primary venturi.

 

Jon.

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ACBE84E2-890B-45F3-95C3-3691A464AE94.thumb.jpeg.daafbaf7fa015655294dab8c4ecb4351.jpegOkay I can’t figure out what you’re talking about, can’t find a reference to that in the manual, I do know that I have the needle under the pump jet and the check ball under the hat underneath the acc pump, is it in the pictures I provided earlier in the post?

are you talking about the “plug and gasket “ in the above photo at right? That’s in there 

Edited by jw1955buick (see edit history)
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