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1922 rear wheel bearing

Mark Kikta

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It was clearly a cork gasket that I removed from this differential so I made a new one using 1/16 inch thick cork gasket material that came in the mail yesterday. I put a thin layer of sealant on it and buttoned it up.  I’ll clean out the 8 grease fitting on the axle, regressed them and fill it with 250 wt oil and call it done.



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    The gasket looks good.  This is where I had a little trouble.  All those rear axle cover bolts are thru bolts and not blind holes.  I had to use permatex blue thread sealant (not blue lock tite) on the threads.  I have a few drips of rear axle oil there so maybe there is something that works better.    Hugh 

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  • 4 weeks later...

Also to add here, since the lock washers were well used I decided to have new ones made.  I had a local machine shop laser cut exact replacements that fit like a glove and worked perfectly.  I had extras made if anyone ever needs some.




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  • 1 year later...


Good to talk to you tonight. The bearing for your car is the same part # for D 44-45 etc. up thru 1925-44-44A-45. So I will be ordering the VBX sealed units you used as a replacements and I will replace the felt seals as you did since I already have a new set. (just discovered they are the wrong size)

 For me there is that mission creep again. I was cleaning up things underneath my 1925 Master just so I could reinstall the cleaned and relined gas tank. Then came the brake issue to be addressed...While cleaning the wheel I flipped it over and the bearing fell out. What they had in there was a SKF 5310. Apparently it was a bit smaller than the hub bore. I measured I.D. and O.D. and calculated the bearing was smaller by .033! To take up the space they poured solder around it! 


 Bearing before I scraped off all the solder. One of the shims in the background.

There is evidence that the outer bearing had spun a bit in the hub bore.


Now I have to scrape the solder remains from the hub bore.

 Cleaned up I.D. and O.D. I used a .010 and .006 shim to get me .032 total to close the space. The fit seems good to me in that I had to use a hard wood block and a 20 OZ ballpein to drive it in.

 The felt seals I got from BOB'S were about an inch too large in the O.D. I made an arbor to hold them in the lathe true to cut the remainder with a utility knife.DSCF8651.JPG.8f2c04fd9e0441c1e64976dd8b8aac38.JPG

 No rest for the wicked....


Edited by dibarlaw
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  • 8 months later...


    Just to let you know, since your model became the "Standard", that this posting is about what later became the Buick "Master".  Masters are full floating axles, and Standards are 3/4 floating. 

- On a Master, you will see 6 outer cap nuts on the rear hub.  You can remove the wheel drive hub and the axle together by removing those 6 cap nuts.  Then the wheel can be removed without a puller.  

-On the Standard, you will notice 12 carriage bolt heads on the wheel flange.  The flange stays with the wheel.  If you get lucky, the wheel hub will come off the axle, but you will likely need a puller to remove the wheel hub from the axle.  The axle stays in the rear axle assembly.  Your rear axle is a little different than mine as well, since I think they went to the rear axle with the rear cover in 1924.  Your gear housing bolts together in 2 halves. 

We should be able to provide answers as you go thru if you don't find them.  


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I was just adding up how long I’ve own the 22 and moved it from storage location to storage location and it’s been 37 years wow how the time fly’s.  I’ve had my 39 Buick since I was 16 and I’m approaching 65 but at least I got a few years to enjoy driving it around and a couple parades along with in our wedding before kids came along and it got parked. I’ve got a lot of catching up to do!

Edited by Mike Mowen (see edit history)
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