auburnseeker

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John & Randy, I expect to go for a ride in both of your cars at Auburn over Labor Day. No excuses!

Edited by edinmass (see edit history)
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Well I probably won't be at Auburn but hopefully she will atleast be roadworthy by that time. 

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Randy........do me a favor, bring the wife and both Auburn’s to the meet.  👍👍👍

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I did just hear back from the Running board molding guy and all he sells is the 1/2" 1/2 Round molding not the wide one.  I wonder if any other car used a rocker molding with teh right profile.  I have a bunch of NOS rocker moldings .  Pretty close might be better than nothing at all. Time for a trip up in the loft. 

 

Does anyone have a close up picture of a correct running board with trim that would show the proper profile in relation to the fender bead? 

Edited by auburnseeker (see edit history)

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On 2/22/2020 at 10:30 PM, auburnseeker said:

I did just hear back from the Running board molding guy and all he sells is the 1/2" 1/2 Round molding not the wide one.  I wonder if any other car used a rocker molding with teh right profile.  I have a bunch of NOS rocker moldings .  Pretty close might be better than nothing at all. Time for a trip up in the loft. 

 

Does anyone have a close up picture of a correct running board with trim that would show the proper profile in relation to the fender bead? 

No, it is an Auburn specific part - John Bools in North Carolina makes the part for a V-12, but it is longer and would need to be trimmed - John is restoring a V-12 Phaeton and had the chassis on displayed at Auburn at ACD Festival this year - he does top notch everything.  I will PM you John's email and contact information.  

 

If John Bools has a pair, then Jump on it and eat peanut butter and jelly for a week.  As mentioned, when Auburn parts are available today you get them as tomorrow is a whole other story (and if you need to make something you are generally 1K plus in the first whatever). 

 

As to the 1/2 round bead - If John makes that part it would be too long and really cannot be trimmed too well - as V-12 are longer wheelbase and length is in both front fenders and running boards.

 

L & L generally makes everyhting from aluminum, and if not ALL is coming from L & L then I would go with stainless pinbead from Max Merritt http://www.maxmerrittauto.com/showpage.php?page=body-molding.htm

Edited by John_Mereness (see edit history)

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I got to do some more random wet sanding and buffing as well as cleaned up the dash and inner windshield trim.  Did a bunch of other random nickel pieces.  I'm going to pull the rear seat and clean that up tomorrow. I pulled it up today to see if there was storage underneath, hoping to find the wrench for the wheels but no storage under there. 

I found an original Owner's manual on Ebay and picked that up. Surprising how small the car is inside when it looks so big from the outside as I spent an hour behind the wheel cleaning stuff up. I'll definitely have to wear my smaller shoes to drive it comfortably.  My big clumsy work boots seem to get in the way.  Guess they weren't designed for guys over 6 foot tall and definitely not for guys with a Belly which I fortunately don't have. All the more reason to stay in shape. 

 

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Edited by auburnseeker (see edit history)
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Car looks nice.........my rule of thumb is at 6’1” I generally need a chassis length of 138 inches, and I still feel cramped. 142-148 seem to fit me most comfortably, but they tend to cost more than my budget can afford.  Looking forward to you getting the mechanical’s going, and getting the tires on and the wheels painted. 

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44 minutes ago, edinmass said:

 Looking forward to you getting the mechanical’s going, and getting the tires on and the wheels painted. 

Me too. 

Edited by auburnseeker (see edit history)
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45 minutes ago, edinmass said:

Car looks nice

Somewhere between a barn find and a local show car.  I guess not too bad on my budget. ;) 

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Lets hope for an early Spring.  Once you've cleaned everything possible on it, may as well invest in a couple of comfy chairs, you can read ACD newsletters and HMN while admiring your cleanup efforts. 🙂

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54 minutes ago, edinmass said:

Car looks nice.........my rule of thumb is at 6’1” I generally need a chassis length of 138 inches, and I still feel cramped. 142-148 seem to fit me most comfortably, but they tend to cost more than my budget can afford.  Looking forward to you getting the mechanical’s going, and getting the tires on and the wheels painted. 


I have noticed little correlation between wheelbase and driver room aside from an inverse relationship on expensive cars, or rather cars that were big and expensive when new. The guy driving the car would often be “the help” and nobody cared if he was comfortable.

 

 

 

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9 minutes ago, gossp said:


I have noticed little correlation between wheelbase and driver room aside from an inverse relationship on expensive cars, or rather cars that were big and expensive when new. The guy driving the car would often be “the help” and nobody cared if he was comfortable.

 

 

 

 

You can say that again, brother! 139 inch wheelbase and at 5'10" I still drive with my legs akimbo around the steering wheel.

 

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At 6’4” I have had a lot of disappointment discovering (when finally in a position to make a move) that a car I have dreamed about is an absolute impossibility for me to drive.  

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1 hour ago, Matt Harwood said:

 

You can say that again, brother! 139 inch wheelbase and at 5'10" I still drive with my legs akimbo around the steering wheel.

 

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Matt.........I only collect 1929-1936, the later stuff might be tighter up front for more room in the back. I’m 6’1” and can fit comfortably in MOST of the larger Classics. Getting in and out can be a challenge, but once settled in, most of the time several hours behind the wheel is not too difficult. Recently did 800 miles in four days on difficult back country roads, and was able to still enjoy the ride.

 

 

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37 minutes ago, edinmass said:


 

Matt.........I only collect 1929-1936, the later stuff might be tighter up front for more room in the back. I’m 6’1” and can fit comfortably in MOST of the larger Classics. Getting in and out can be a challenge, but once settled in, most of the time several hours behind the wheel is not too difficult. Recently did 800 miles in four days on difficult back country roads, and was able to still enjoy the ride.

 

 

I'll let you know how Victoria is once I get her on the road.  I sat in the driving position with my feet where they would be driving while working on the dash the other day for an hour.  Not the same as driving but was surprised I think there is more room in My Hudson Pickup which is known for a fairly tight cab. 

Worse case scenario,  I'll just have to take up some Yoga classes to become a little more agile.   

Probably won't help though as the only thing that I learn to stretch is my eyeballs. ;) 

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16 hours ago, auburnseeker said:

 

 

16 hours ago, auburnseeker said:

Surprising how small the car is inside when it looks so big from the outside as I spent an hour behind the wheel cleaning stuff up.

Guess they weren't designed for guys over 6 foot tall and definitely not for guys with a Belly which I fortunately don't have. All the more reason to stay in shape.

 

 

 

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"Surprising how small car is inside" - Yes, that is why I said to get the village looking for a proper luggage trunk aka been there done that project and proves important for true usefulness of car  :)

 

As to size, if you drive the car a lot you may find you need to have the front seat back partially unstuffed (most everyone I know that drives has had all the cotton removed and the springs faced with thick layer of felt - gives you another 1 to 2" space and that is a huge difference.   Also, you may have to play around with the angle on the lower seat cushion mount and .... 

 

My 31 Phaeton had a toolbox under front seat - not really big, but did prove useful nevertheless.

 

 

Edited by John_Mereness (see edit history)

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Just ordered my Running board moldings.  Should be ready in about 2 months.  Now to find the rubber. 

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17 hours ago, auburnseeker said:

Just ordered my Running board moldings.  Should be ready in about 2 months.  Now to find the rubber. 

I keep getting told that this is the only supplier - http://www.northfieldltd.com/runningboardmats.html

 

By the way, their work is very nice and I have had their parts on several cars over years.

 

And at $975.00 plus shipping - a good buy.

Edited by John_Mereness (see edit history)

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Just gonna have to climb in and out lots and lots of times, just for sitting, going for many drives, often. Wear them in a bit.

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On 2/27/2020 at 11:17 PM, auburnseeker said:

I'll let you know how Victoria is once I get her on the road.  I sat in the driving position with my feet where they would be driving while working on the dash the other day for an hour.  Not the same as driving but was surprised I think there is more room in My Hudson Pickup which is known for a fairly tight cab. 

Worse case scenario,  I'll just have to take up some Yoga classes to become a little more agile.   

Probably won't help though as the only thing that I learn to stretch is my eyeballs. ;) 

I have driven a '33 Auburn 12 Salon Phaeton Sedan pretty extensively.  I found the driver's seat very comfortable.  The only drawback is the placement of the windshield wiper motors which seem to be strategically located so your knuckles bark against them at inopportune times. 

These are great cars and I am absolutely green with envy.  I hope to join you in the fulfillment of a drean club this spring. Yours is a great car. Well bought.

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Posted (edited)

Looks like the board matts with glue and shipping will run $1125,  then $475 for the trim.  so $1500,  if I don't include possibly having them blasted to make sure the matts stick properly.  Do you paint then glue them to the painted board or does the matt get glued directly to the raw metal?  I would think atleast an epoxy primer or something should be used.  I haven't seen the directions yet.  Matts are about 2-3 weeks out. 

I'll order them later today or tomorrow. 

 

I get done with those I'll have to get covers made to keep the running boards from getting dirty. ;) 

Edited by auburnseeker (see edit history)

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22 hours ago, auburnseeker said:

So I'll have a pair of mint runningboards on my ratty old car. ;) 

That's the way it works - you get the stuff when it is available :)  And sort of like a new set of tires and repainted wheels or new hubcaps and ... - amazing what it will do in "picking-up" a car. 

 

I am not sure you need to go the route of epoxy paints on the running boards, but they do need to be rust free on the top as you do not want rust to start due to any reason under your runningboard covers.  The last set I did, I sandblasted tops and used Rustolium Rust Converter Primer from a rattle can and a mist coat of rustolium automotive Black - both products are amazingly tough as nails and surprisingly "cool" products (the undersides were actually pretty nice having been sprayed with enamel via prior owner (they were trying to preserve original mats from a time period when reproduction mats were not available). 

 

 

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Posted (edited)
2 hours ago, ericmac said:

I have driven a '33 Auburn 12 Salon Phaeton Sedan pretty extensively.  I found the driver's seat very comfortable.  The only drawback is the placement of the windshield wiper motors which seem to be strategically located so your knuckles bark against them at inopportune times. 

These are great cars and I am absolutely green with envy.  I hope to join you in the fulfillment of a drean club this spring. Yours is a great car. Well bought.

My Auburn has a host of marks on the windshield glass from people's rings 

Edited by John_Mereness (see edit history)
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