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What is your favorite rust eater?


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Second vote for Evapo-Rust. I used it on the chrome wire wheels we bought used for my wife's Chrysler wagon and it worked as advertised. One overnight soak and the rust was gone but the chrome was completely unharmed. Remarkable. I was sold on it at that point.

 

Lately I've been using it to clean the water jackets of an engine block. Set up a circulation pump to move it through the engine and it has been munching away at the rust for about a week now. The Evapo-Rust gets darker as it gets used up, so you know when to replace it. You can re-use it until it turns black. Here's a series of photos from last week showing the solution as it works:

 

EvapoRustColor1.thumb.jpg.a25b26068bc6352eb28a45d527dc8b4e.jpg

 

Here's the whole setup (arrow points to small circulation pump):

 

Pump1.thumb.jpg.7b3dec59cd20133318e5871b48e41c2d.jpg

 

I'm only a very satisfied customer, so take that for what it's worth.

 

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You can use it on potmetal plated parts as well and it won't hurt the chrome but cleans up all the green and oxidation.  Dorr handles,  stuff like that.  It will do a much better job than anything else where even 0000 Steel wool might scratch the parts.  Plus it cleans all the scuzz off the back side of the parts as well. 

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I've also used EvapoRust at the suggestion of many forum members, and it is a very good product. The only thing is it takes more than a day or two to take care of the rust. I keep hearing it is inert on other surfaces and is environmentally safe, but I can't actually verify that one way or the other. Keep in mind it's a rust remover and not a corrosion inhibitor. I did use it in my water jacket in a running working engine and it worked good without compromising gaskets.

 

When I rebuilt the heater system on my '54 Ford, I removed rust with a wire brush from the housing and ducts and/or sand paper, then sprayed with a rust neutralizer. (Can't remember the brand..CRC, maybe?) Then sprayed with Rustoleum Rusty Metal Primer, then sprayed with a black finish coat. That seems to have held up pretty well so far.

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Matt......interesting set up on the engine that can’t be mentioned. I thought of making a similar set up to do radiators also. Flushing it backwards with the evapo rust. We have probably used straight evapo rust as a coolant in fifteen cars now.........and it solved the problem on every single car. On barn finds you know what pulling the water jacket covers can turn into with bad bolts and such. On projects like that we just pull the head first and clean it out that way......even though it’s ten time longer as far as labor goes. Ultimately, if you can back flush the head, block, and radiator before you even start the car you save a ton of time and money on the chemicals. On car we didn’t have a chance to disassemble due to time issues........so we bit the bullet and used three treatments of evapo rust from start to finish.......it turned black from the suspended iron.........but we didn’t have to take anything apart. Running the engine drastically speeds up the process.............evapo rust is the only thing that comes out of a bottle or can that can actually help fix you car.....

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I’ve used it on miscellaneous little parts over the years very happy.

i was given a couple lightly rusted machinist tools, Starrett brand, a vernier caliper, a scale, and a protractor. I tried evapo rust on them, it worked but left the finish of the tool very dark almost black.  Maybe it was the type of metal. I tried polishing but could not get the black off. Maybe I left it on too long.. 

 

greg

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Molasses and water if you have the time.

 I made a bath out of 2 X 8's lined with plastic and submerged fenders and Qut. panels. Completely removed ALL or the rust including the deep pores.

They only required a pressure wash when taken out of the bath Then a quick DA with 60 grit.

The second pic shows a fender where the bath was not deep enough and missed the center after I had repositioned it.

 

DSCN2088 (3).JPG

DSCN2141.JPG

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I bought my Evaporust off Amazon after they stopped carrying the larger gallon bottles at Autozone and no one else around listed it,  though they opened up a harbor freight store. Couldn't beat the free shipping on 4 gallons.  Maybe I should check there. I've only been in it once when looking for Christmas presents for our son as he looses everything we get him or tears it apart within a day or two.  No sense in spending good money on tools he won't have in a week. 

 

I still think Evaporust is some sort of Molasses extract.  Similar amber color sticky and non toxic. 

Edited by auburnseeker (see edit history)
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Most people don't realize how cheap chemicals are.............to manufacture and sell. What ever is in evaporations rust........they are making a bundle. On bare metal parts, off the car, you can use citric acid........get it from a wine making website. Cheap, easy, and will do 99 percent of the work evapo  rust will. In a cooling system or radiator.........don't go cheap...throw down for the real stuff.....its still a bargain compared to paying a good mechanic to fix the car. Honestly, and new car I buy, I just drain the system several times and flush with water, then do my evapo rust six month treatment driving the car........call it preventative maintainance   ....it mush better to do it at home in the shop, then have an issue on a tour or away from home........

Edited by edinmass (see edit history)
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Just looked on-line for 1 gallon jugs of Evaporust with the following results:

 

Advance Auto $27

Auto Zone $23 (Rust-o-leum Dissolver)

Napa - nada...

Harbor Freight $28 - 20% discount = $22.40

Amazon $22.26 w/free shipping

eBay $14.59 w/free shipping (I would have to wait until Thursday since it would be shipping from Washington State to Virginia!)

Pep Boys $15 w/promo (I can pick it up today!)

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4 hours ago, Roger Walling said:

Molasses and water if you have the time.

 I made a bath out of 2 X 8's lined with plastic and submerged fenders and Qut. panels. Completely removed ALL or the rust including the deep pores.

They only required a pressure wash when taken out of the bath Then a quick DA with 60 grit.

The second pic shows a fender where the bath was not deep enough and missed the center after I had repositioned it.

 

DSCN2088 (3).JPG

DSCN2141.JPG

 

Roger,  what is the mix ratio of molasses to water are you using?

 

Dave

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1 minute ago, Tinindian said:

A few days ago someone on one of these topics said hot water and "Dawn" dishwashing  soap did a great job on grease.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Hmmm.

I wonder what would happen with a Dawn Molasses mix.

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Dawn works well on grease- anti colloidal. does nothing for rust.....................

 

good to use on radiator to clean out, then fill rad with vinegar and run car. This has cleaned out every rad I have ever done and worked well. Need to give the vinegar 6 weeks. all is clean................

 

vinegar does a great job on gas tanks as well.

 

those in a hurry use Evaporust.

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Quote,

 

 "

Roger,  what is the mix ratio of molasses to water are you using?

 

Dave'

 The mixture is 9 to 1 part molasses.

 It costs about $5 a gal at a feed store.

 That makes a mixture of 10 gal to soak rust in.

 Almost enough to clean the inside of a gas tank, for $5.

 

Edited by Roger Walling (see edit history)
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1 hour ago, Roger Walling said:

Quote,

 

 "

Roger,  what is the mix ratio of molasses to water are you using?

 

Dave'

 The mixture is 9 to 1 part molasses.

 It costs about $5 a gal at a feed store.

 That makes a mixture of 10 gal to soak rust in.

 Almost enough to clean the inside of a gas tank, for $5.

 

Does Molasses De Grease as well?

 I know evaporust will degrease.  It works great for cleaning up grease and all the shop grime on NOS door latch mechanisms so they look like new.  It leaves the cadmium plating like new as well.  I wish I had learned about it when I started selling parts. You wouldn't believe the amount of stuff that looked like junk before the evaporust bath. 

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After reading through all this I decided to do a little experiment with some emblems that I had kicking around that had broken tabs or were pitted that wouldn't really matter what happened to them.   I had let them soak for about 2 hours in fairly well used Evapo Rust

Here's the before and after of each side:

 

 

20200129_143926.jpg

20200129_144018.jpg

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And the other side:

 

20200129_143949.thumb.jpg.4b4805eea14c0657d480dc1852b50041.jpg20200129_144040.thumb.jpg.70931dd9db44dc9d1b16155bd1cd9dab.jpg

 

The best part was that it didn't touch the factory shadow painting on the 100 emblem:

 

20200129_144101.thumb.jpg.d9a8c65ad57d5953265b620c95a011cc.jpg

 

 

I left the 4th emblem to soak overnight to see how much of difference that makes.  It's kind of hard to see how much more the chrome pops now but it went from really dull to bright without any polishing or effort really.  

 

Don  

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One last one:  This is a window crank that I had let soak overnight last night.  Unfortunately I wan't thinking far enough ahead yesterday to get a before picture.  All I did was let it soak, rinsed it off and towel dried it.  I did throw in a couple of older window cranks that the finish was dull but looked solid until they soaked.  Once they soaked over night the cracks in the plating opened up.  I will get pictures of those tomorrow.  So there is a bit of a word of caution to using this stuff.  

 

 

DSC_0897.jpg

DSC_0898.jpg

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Now if you take a polish like Mother's or something similar and just very lightly go over it , it will get rid of the water spots and leave a gleaming finish. 

One thing i noticed is it will take all the green / black scuzz off Nickel plated parts and leave it with just a smooth clean dull finish that a quick cleaning with something like Mother's will bring them to a beautiful warm shine. 

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JUst checked the price for 5 Gal. pail of EVAPO-RUST with fre delivery from Home DEpot; $76.25

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Evapo-Rust-5-gal-Safe-Rust-Remover-ER013/300223745

 

 

5 gal. Safe Rust Remover

$7625

 

Evapo-Rust 5 gal. Safe Rust Remover

 

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Quote,

" the price for 5 Gal. pail of EVAPO-RUST with fre delivery from Home DEpot; $76.25"  That's 5 gal of solution ready to soak parts in.

 

 Molassas, $5.00 a gal. Then mix with 9 gal. of water, That's 10 gal. of solution ready to soak parts in.  That's 30 times cheaper!   😯

 

Nobody finishes a restoration in 2 days. Plan ahead and have your parts rust free when you need them.

 

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Molasses draws bugs, flies, smells to holy hell, and can take up to ten times longer and be only about 75 percent effective over the synthetic chemical........and then it will flash rust quickly while the commercial product will not. If your working on very rusty chassis or similar heavy iron products, treating them with molasses is going to save you a bunch of money............quite a few people I know use both on the really rusty stuff. Heat still comes into play, as well as circulation. Doing engine blocks and radiators, along with the rest of the cooling system, just use the good stuff......no smell, no mess, and no damage to paint or finishes. 

Edited by edinmass (see edit history)
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Ok , I have a nickel plated shell for a 1925-27 era Franklin that has excellent original plating but has not been cleaned probably in 50+ years . I do not want to bet a container to soak/submerse  the whole thing in to get the tarnish off. I did clean a spot along the front edge with metal polish and it took forever and a lot of rubbing - a soft rag didn't touch it with the polish so I used a very soft plastic wool. If I brush on evaporust in sections at a time ( ie one side of the shell , then the other, then the top etc) would that remove safely the tarnish and then leave me a surface to polish without major effort and time? I am not lpooking for a quick solution just one thet is effective and safe to the plated surface and does not take a month plus to accomplish.

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Just now, Walt G said:

Ok , I have a nickel plated shell for a 1925-27 era Franklin that has excellent original plating but has not been cleaned probably in 50+ years . I do not want to bet a container to soak/submerse  the whole thing in to get the tarnish off. I did clean a spot along the front edge with metal polish and it took forever and a lot of rubbing - a soft rag didn't touch it with the polish so I used a very soft plastic wool. If I brush on evaporust in sections at a time ( ie one side of the shell , then the other, then the top etc) would that remove safely the tarnish and then leave me a surface to polish without major effort and time? I am not lpooking for a quick solution just one thet is effective and safe to the plated surface and does not take a month plus to accomplish.

 

Evapo-Rust is the consistency of water so it doesn't brush on very well--there's no cling. The process takes so long that immersion is really the only effective way to use it.

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