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Buick 1927 - 27 Transmission Lock


MG1927
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For some time I have been intrigued with the transmission lock on my car.  I read the number and had a key made for it. The key arrived and will not fit in the lock, so I am thinking that something was broken off in the lock.  Would anyone know how to remove the lock from the transmission?  Is it very complicated? Do you need to remove the transmission to get inside it?

Thanks!

Marty

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Marty,

Mine was a Yale and www.jessersclassickeys.com made a key from the numbers on a Yale blank and it worked.  You may have a briggs and stratton key (as I see a B in a box on your cylinder) and did they get the numbers right?  I would certainly put some "Lockease" into the key slot, Put a pair of vise grips on the key, and Gently (don't break the key)-work it back and forth and ensure it is all the way in the barrel.  It took a bit of this action before my new key actually loosened the barrel.   I also put penetrating lube around the barrel as that was pretty dry as well.  Your lock looks very dry and surface rusted in place.

  

There is a slotted screw in the side of the lock cylinder housing.   Even if you remove the screw from the side, that will not free the lock cylinder.  The slot in the lock barrel fits with the screw.  The screw just limits the up and down motion of the lock plunger so that you can remove the lock or not raise the lock assembly too far during normal usage. 

I would talk to a lock smith to see if they could get the lock to turn first, especially since you have a key.  If you had to drill the lock, you would go in thru one of the 2 holes on the back side of the casting that have plugs.  The lower hole is the hole that locks the transmission in the neutral position.  The upper hole is to hold the lock up so that it prevents the lock from dropping into the transmission.   The pin has to be extended so that you can remove the key in either the up or down position. 

Consider also taking the top off the transmission if you had to, so that you could send it or take it to a lock smith that could get the tumbler to spin.  Drilling out the lock would be my last resort. 

Please let us know if a locksmith can pick this lock and get it to spin.  

Hugh

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I had the same problem some how over the years the cylinder shrunk and the key way close e d up some I used a small file and thinned the key used a magic marker on th side of the key to have a reference as where it was too thick and some3/1 oil it worked.  B

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Marty, 

Put a vacuum cleaner nozzle over the lock cylinder and use a large sewing needle.  
 
FYI, I have a "Large Sewing needle" that the thread end is wrapped in duct tape.  It is a couple inches long and about 1" of the needle is exposed.  I use this for a lot of things.  
 
While running the vacuum cleaner, Insert the needle into the key hole.  You should be able to break up any dirt or determine if a key is actually broken off inside.  If there is no key, it should be able to be inserted about an inch.  Once you think it is cleaned out, then you can add some WD-40.  
 
- If there is a broken key inside, then a wide screwdriver should provide the leverage to turn the lock.  The broken key should be pushing the pins in.  Work it back and forth.  
 - If there is no key in the hole,  you should see that the needle will push the lock pins back, and they should spring return.  There are at least 4 if not 6 tumblers in the lock.  Work each one slow and easy starting from the top.  Don't push it in so far that it will not spring back as you need that lubrication to make it all operate smoothly. 
 
One more item to do first.  Take a small wire brush and clean around the lock barrel while vacuuming.  Put WD-40 down the sides of the lock barrel.   Consider putting a small hose clamp or duct tape on the lock barrel near the top.  If the key moves, and the barrel goes all the way down, it will be nearly impossible to pull the barrell back up since things have not really been cleaned up.  The  long spring that will push the barrel up if there is not a lot of dirt in the parts.   As long as the barrel is still high enough above the surface of the transmission cover, you can still grip it with channel locks.    Hugh
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Edited by Hubert_25-25 (see edit history)
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4 hours ago, Donlock said:

What’s the  code on the lock, maybe I can help a little.

Don 

I was locksmith for 40  years just sold my business to my grandson.


Gentlemen I have been obsessed with getting my transmission lock to work!!  I’ve had a locksmith come try and he didn’t have the blanks.  Just got a few blanks at Hershey this year but I had the same issue, the key it’s self seemed too wide to even slide into the keyway!

 

My trans lock:

 

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William,

What you describe fits my key problem exactly. I am confident that I have the right key, but it won't even go into the lock. I have soaked it and the barrel with free-all, brushed it clean, but have not vacuumed  the key slot yet while using a needle as Hugh suggested. 

Marty

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5 hours ago, MG1927 said:

William,

What you describe fits my key problem exactly. I am confident that I have the right key, but it won't even go into the lock. I have soaked it and the barrel with free-all, brushed it clean, but have not vacuumed  the key slot yet while using a needle as Hugh suggested. 

Marty


that’s my exact issue, the key won’t even go into the slot/lock!!  I’m thinking of doing what was suggested and slowly filing down the width of one of the keys and see if I can get it into the lock.

 

ive soaked the lock w KROIL which I’ve found to be the best stuff going, I’ve been careful not to spray too much into the lock as it’s obviously going through the lock and into the trans and I don’t want to contaminate the heavy wt fluid in the trans!!

 

but the key just won’t slide into the lock itself!  I did a rubbing of the key code stamped on the lock w a white colored pencil and it’s B310.

 

If there is anything you can do to assist me/us @Donlock that would be VERY appreciated and I’d be happy to pay you Sir!!!

 

 

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2 hours ago, Donlock said:

I think it is B316

as for the key way you will probably have to take apart.

Don G


yeah we’ve debated back and forth if it’s B310 or B316!

 

I am hoping that I don’t have to take it apart as I’ve got zero experience taking the top of the shifter tower apart even though I’ve heard that it’s super easy to do and probably the best way to go as it will be easier to work on the lock mechanism on a bench that in the tight confines of the car!

 

Plus then I guess with the tower off I can get a gander into the trans itself!?

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