coast Posted January 16, 2020 Share Posted January 16, 2020 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mobileparts Posted January 17, 2020 Share Posted January 17, 2020 You don't state anything with your picture -- so I will respond that if you need or want any of that NEW -- I have the brake shoes, brake hardware, wheel cylinders, wheel bearings & seals, brake hoses, and brake drums -- ALL brand new... Always best to simply call me -- Craig -- 516 - 485 - 1935...... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coast Posted January 17, 2020 Author Share Posted January 17, 2020 I am sorry for not posting anything, technical issue with my brain. I have a hard brake pedal, so far I have had the booster rebuilt, tested the vacuum valve inserted in it and all vacuum hoses, and have now replaced my wheel cylinders and brake hoses on the front of the car. I found my rubber brake hoses to be in very bad shape, maybe original? My wheel cylinders where full of rusty looking brake fluid and the inside walls where rusty and rough. I have new steel brake lines as well so they should be fine, no rust. I now plan to bleed the brakes and see what I have as far as my brake pedal goes. When I get back from Vacation I will be going through the back brakes as I am sure I will find the same thing there. I am hoping that as I have a read on this forum that my brake hoses were bad and collapsed causing this issue or that the old wheel cylinders condition were preventing them from work correctly. I will leave feed back on what I find. BTW, what should my vacuum pressure be coming out of the line that goes to the booster? I have not been able to get a good reading on this yet but plan on doing this once I can start car. But before I can get back to the brakes I have to reinstall my starter that went bad during this process. ( I had sleepy hollow in Canton Ga rebuilt my starter. $95, great people) I cant seem to fix things fast enough and stay ahead of the issues that come up. OLD CARS! lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
60FlatTop Posted January 17, 2020 Share Posted January 17, 2020 How old are the brake linings? I have repaired hard pedal, no stop conditions on two low mileage cars that had nice, thick linings, but they wouldn't grip the drums. Old linings get like that. Bernie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coast Posted January 17, 2020 Author Share Posted January 17, 2020 (edited) the linings are old in age, with little miles on them. I did not change those out. I will keep this in mind if what I have done so far does not correct the issue. I just got the starter back in and found out I left the key on so now I am having to charge the battery before I can see if I made any improvement. But that will have to wait until tomorrow as my body has had enough for today. lol Thanks! Edited January 17, 2020 by coast (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EmTee Posted January 19, 2020 Share Posted January 19, 2020 On 1/17/2020 at 4:21 PM, coast said: I just got the starter back in and found out I left the key on so now I am having to charge the battery Check your ignition points... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
arnulfo de l.a. Posted January 19, 2020 Share Posted January 19, 2020 On January 16, 2020 at 10:26 PM, mobileparts said: You don't state anything with your picture -- so I will respond that if you need or want any of that NEW -- I have the brake shoes, brake hardware, wheel cylinders, wheel bearings & seals, brake hoses, and brake drums -- ALL brand new... Always best to simply call me -- Craig -- 516 - 485 - 1935...... You have new finned brake drums? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XframeFX Posted January 21, 2020 Share Posted January 21, 2020 It appears you're on top of the situation. Hopefully you'll find the problem licked after bleeding the circuit. One thing to note on power brake setups back in the '60s. They dropped the brake pedal down to the level of the accelerator pedal, There is very little travel because the push-rod is near the fulcrum. Manual brakes has the pushrod further from the fulcrum for more leverage/travel, a higher pedal. The power assist system relies heavily on the vacuum booster. Without vacuum, the pedal will be very hard with hardly any travel. Power front disc brakes of the '70s was similar, a dropped pedal with little travel. The valve in the vacuum booster, you mean the check-valve? Easy to test. John B. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
telriv Posted January 21, 2020 Share Posted January 21, 2020 If they are NEW more than likely they are the ones repro'd in cast iron from Chine. I have two that had 150 miles on them. They were put on recently & removed to install disc brakes along with the backing plates, shoes, new hardware, w/clys. hoses etc. ALL with about 150 miles on them IF anyone is interested. Being the drums are cast iron they are heavy & would assume somewhat costly to ship. Tom T. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dr914 Posted January 21, 2020 Share Posted January 21, 2020 bad rubber brake hoses cause a very hard pedal and very poor braking Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coast Posted February 1, 2020 Author Share Posted February 1, 2020 dr914, my rubber brake hoses were very bad, along with the inside of the wheel cylinders being rusting and rough. I am back from Vacation, plan on doing the back brakes this week, then bleeding and hoping I have acceptable brakes do I can enjoy driving the car. Thanks Bob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mobileparts Posted February 1, 2020 Share Posted February 1, 2020 Bob, As indicated I have ++ N.O.S. Asbestos ++ Brake Shoes, the Brake Hardware, the Wheel Cylinders, and Brake Drums , all USA made !!!! For your1965 Buick RIVIERA..... Always best to simply call me -- Craig -- 516 - 485 - 1935...... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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