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1911 Hupmobile 20


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Dark blue is a typical 1911 Hupp color, that'd be nice.  I'm going to contact a friend of mine about your need for the high headlight posts, but I think in the end you'll need to get them cast or forged.  To that end, you might ask around and see if anyone has a set loose to get dimensions.  So glad you finally got the car!  dc

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I think it is the best one I could ever hope to have. The engine and transmission have never been apart, new axle shafts were machined to replace the ones with worn keyways. Just bolting back together and going for a ride is my goal, the restoration can take place later. Bob 

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On 1/7/2020 at 2:44 PM, trimacar said:

Dark blue is a typical 1911 Hupp color, that'd be nice.  I'm going to contact a friend of mine about your need for the high headlight posts, but I think in the end you'll need to get them cast or forged.  To that end, you might ask around and see if anyone has a set loose to get dimensions.  So glad you finally got the car!  dc

A friend years ago restored a little dark blue 1911 Hupp. I was just a kid at 17 and went to see it because I saw a beautiful 1930 Chrysler roadster in his driveway. In the garage was the Hupmobile. The guy was in the process of making the fenders for it. I think his name was Nichols and lived west of Royal Oak, Michigan where I was raised.

Edited by keiser31 (see edit history)
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  • 1 month later...

This really isn't progress, but I did spend 30-45 minutes on the top yesterday. Front bow was broken in the center, and I thought it would be a simple splint just to keep it together. Old poor fix with a piece of pine. Top mounts on the seat are odd, two different styles, I don't see a reason for the bend in the drivers side. Bob  Reached my AACA Forum two photos per day limit, back tomorrow with the other bracket photo. 

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Edited by 1937hd45
wrong photo (see edit history)
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  • 5 weeks later...

Nice wheels and tires!  The last time I put tires on my 1910, I actually had one of the wheels in a huge vise that I own, and one of the tire irons slipped.  10 stitches in the top of my head.  You should have seen the looks, how'd this happen, uh, changing a tire.....

 

When I lived in Louisiana, they had just started personalized antique car license plates.  I decided what I wanted, ordered it, went to pick it up when it came.  Lady behind the counter said oh, are you in the Army?  Uh, no, why do you ask.....well, isn't that the saying in the Army, "10 Hupp"......

Hupp with Cord.jpg

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I'm going to guess the tires and paint on the wheels are 30+ years old, just the way I got them with everything else less the Headlamp brackets. The wheels are new but have square fellows, some time I'll have proper round fellow wheels made, but for now they are good to go. Rear axle overhaul is the next project, I'm setting a July 4th date of completion. Bob 

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Hello All!

Last week I bought this car from Bob (1937hd45) and thought I'd post here to let everyone know. 

I've been hard at working sorting our parts, figuring what I do and don't have, and what I need to do to put it all back together. 

The biggest issue I can see will be with the rear axle, which was all apart when Bob got it, and is still apart. I've determined that I need to replace the inner differential bearings and the driveshaft bearing. Outer bearings look good. I found a post on the forum with another member who did a similar job and I'm going to follow that process. 

In the meantime, here are some photos...

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Front end looking good, but the kingpin was misplaced. My Dad helped me pick up a 5/8" grade * bolt, drill the oil holes in it and it should work pretty well. Also the internal pieces to the drag link were missing, but we had a kit for a Model A laying around, and it fit perfectly. The springs have bushings in them that are a little oversized, so I need to ream them out to get the bolts in.

 

Here's Dad figuring out how the axle reassembles.

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So far here's what I'm looking for:

  • Headlight forks - Bob was never able to source these. I imagine I won't be able to either. I've got dimensions and drawings to make replicas. 
  • Inner axle bearings, driveshaft bearing
  • Top mount bracket - the car has two different styles on it. 
  • New intake manifold - the original one will work, but has been cut to accept a different carb, and I'd like to have one that isn't cut. 
  • Muffler - I may go with a Model T muffler because they're easy to get, but Hupp had its own end castings.
  • Misc oiler and grease cups
  • I would love to find a spare tire/luggage rack mount
  • Oil breather cap

I'll keep everybody updated with my progress!

 

Bill

 

 

 

 

 

Edited by OddBallCars (see edit history)
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I almost bought this, but so many projects.  A huge majority of intake manifolds are cut.  There were new ones cast, I think they are in the $300 range unmachined.  I’ll try to get you a contact person.  I have an original, but like having a spare, I’d sell it but my price might be offensive.  
 

Love the Model 20s, let me know if you have questions.  I can tell you that a Model T spider gear set needs little modification to work in the rear end.

 

Your comment on using a bolt for a king pin concerns me, not a place to cut corners.

 

I had some muffler ends cast a number of years ago but they’re gone.  A very short muffler, careful using a T muffler.  For 20 plus years I ran mine with a straight, smallish, exhaust pipe…one really doesn’t need a muffler on a Hupp.

 

Oh, one last piece of advice, I love my 1910 Model 20 runabout, but try not to drive on streets with shadows from trees, it really slows you down running over them…

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Thanks David! Bob had mentioned that he spoke with you often as he worked on this car. I'm really hoping to be able to have it together and give him a ride next summer. 

 

What is the benefit to the Model T spider gear? I've seen that one several posts, but don't fully understand why, unless the spider gear is worn out. 

 

I didn't even think of the length of the muffler on the Hupp vs. the T... that's really good info (saves me $180)

 

As for the kingpin - I am certainly open to ideas and suggestions on a different way to do this. The plan was a grade 8 bolt, drilled vertically and horizontally for oil passage, with the top drilled and tapped for the oiler. If there are other alternatives, I am all ears. I'm here to learn from those with more experience!

 

I read in another forum that MochetVelo has the castings for the intake manifold. I'll try and reach out to him about that. 

Edited by OddBallCars (see edit history)
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Is there any definitive description of what the pinstripe should look like? 

I have been sanding back the body for paint, and uncovered the pinstripe which appears to be original to me. 

 

It is definitely white, not gray like the wheels. It is 1/8" wide and is located 3/8" from the beading on the body, except at the rear of the seats, where it drifts away from the bead to end about even with the upper screws on the spare tire hoop bracket.
The front panel, doors, and seats are all pinstriped. the section between the seats and doors does not appear to be. The wagon box does not appear to be. 
The gas tank and rear of the wagon box are both pinstriped, but I couldn't tell if that was factory or done later. It looks factory. 
The hood has a pinstripe running from the top panel down along the sides, then it turns and runs along the bottom to the handle. Same front and rear. 
The radiator has a single pinstripe on the upper curved portion of the half circle panel at the top, but nowhere else.

 

I've seen posts that describe a double pinstripe on the radiator. and I've seen restored cars where each panel of the hood is outlined, the wagon box is outlined, and the frame is pinstriped. 
 

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