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3 hours ago, trimacar said:

My sympathy (and empathy!) to the person replacing the top.  Not the most complicated in the world, but enough so to be a real pain.  The worst top to put on in my experience (see picture) is a Packard Darrin, there's no front top bow, just a couple of pieces of metal, but that's another story.....

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Real Darrin's are one of the most undervalued cars on the market,  especially the 180 cars.

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11 minutes ago, auburnseeker said:

I do have some experience doing upholstery work though far from a pro.  Never done a top though.  Looks very square though which seems like it would be simpler than a bunch of curves. 

 

No.   Some things are cool to do on your own,  other's are not worth the effort because it won't look right and you will have killed a bunch of time to go backwards.

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50 minutes ago, trimacar said:

A convertible sedan is a difficult car to correctly put a top on.  First, figure a solid days work to get irons and bows in correct location and fitting windows.  Maybe more.  Lots of issues doing a convertible sedan....


That’s why I don’t buy them!

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I confess........I got something long in my pants................AJ has what we call down south "Alligator Arms" they only reach about 15 percent of the way down to his waist. You should hear him cry when he buys me a hamburger at Amelia on Thursday nights........I can already hear him now and it's more than a week away.

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Darrin's styling was great, his construction , perhaps less so. I had a friend from Ca. , now gone, that as a young guy would walk by Darrin's shop in Ca. to see the cars and the customers and he told me that the lumber that they used to frame the bodies was about as close you could get to packing crates and 2 x 4s. He had some very interesting stories to tell that I recall about Dutch's interest in the passing fillys that walked by his shop and he would immediately purse as fast as his feet would carry him to try to catch up to them to see who they were.

I have to many stories that were told to me by the designers/artists/and engineers  of that era over 45 years ago that just make you shake your head and smile , then laugh.

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1 hour ago, Walt G said:

Darrin's styling was great, his construction , perhaps less so. I had a friend from Ca. , now gone, that as a young guy would walk by Darrin's shop in Ca. to see the cars and the customers and he told me that the lumber that they used to frame the bodies was about as close you could get to packing crates and 2 x 4s. He had some very interesting stories to tell that I recall about Dutch's interest in the passing fillys that walked by his shop and he would immediately purse as fast as his feet would carry him to try to catch up to them to see who they were.

I have to many stories that were told to me by the designers/artists/and engineers  of that era over 45 years ago that just make you shake your head and smile , then laugh.

Yes, when I upholstered that Darrin, I marveled at the poor workmanship...ugly welds, crude braces, and left to right nothing matched dimensions on body...I talked to the fellow restoring Cussler’s Darrin and he said the same thing...

 

Auburnseeker sorry for high jacking thread...

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Very sorry to read of Clive Cussler passing away. I met him once and had a great conversation with him about classic cars at a CCCA event, he was very enthused about pre war classic cars.

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1 hour ago, trimacar said:

Yes, when I upholstered that Darrin, I marveled at the poor workmanship...ugly welds, crude braces, and left to right nothing matched dimensions on body...I talked to the fellow restoring Cussler’s Darrin and he said the same thing...

 

Auburnseeker sorry for high jacking thread...

Hey not a problem.  Keeps it at the top. 😉 

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On 2/25/2020 at 2:44 PM, auburnseeker said:

So how bad is it to put a top on my new 31 Auburn Phaeton.  Looking at it,  doesn't seem too complicated.  Tearing the rack out and getting it rechromed seems to be a bigger job. 

Backtrack:  My advice is to never put a top on your car - the reason is they are a blast to drive with top down and your family with you.  I say that as Auburns have a lot of sharp pointy edges on top mechanism.  Plus, forget your top plating, forget your top, and ...   My best advise is to get a nice boot made and put top up and down and have some fun with your car.   I am in the process of destroying my top and could not be happier (and have many friends also doing the same). 

 

Figure out what engine issue is - could just be something easy like a broken tappet or ...   

 

And, fix your runningboards (get key moldings ASAP - looks like a supply issue is brewing), get your tire covers done ASAP,  paint wheels maroon with chrome lock rings and new tires, touch up your paint, do some more tu-tone  and pinstripe too, take off the outboard driving lamps - leave the headlamps alone and leave the Pilot Ray alone too, get someone looking for a trunk for you - this takes a village effort for more traditional boxy style, but the rounded style is a little easier, and if you cannot do it cosmetically in a weekend then don't attempt.  

 

By the way, most Auburn's are a touch on the shabby side - they are everyone's tour cars as all their really well restored stuff is too hard to drive or too problematic to drive.  

And, the shabbiest ones are as welcome anywhere as the best restored ones. 

Edited by John_Mereness (see edit history)
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  • 2 weeks later...

I have a 1935 Buick frame off restored Model 60 Vicky made only 400+ in 35....It looks original in corvette anniversary red...it has the following 73 Buick 455 bored .30 over   complelely rebuilt with less than 100 miles...new carb ....a corvette 200 R built  auto. ...rebuilt. 442 posi-track rear end 3:36(?)...new gauges.. turned dash....luggage rack...cad seats in leather...new tires ...etc     big bucks in restoration over the 5 years..interested in Trade?

  

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I'm more of a stocker guy..  Bought this Cord with the plans of restoring it one day but realized I really wanted an Auburn and now that's come along so I probably won't get to restoring this anytime soon. There is a Dandy parts car for this listed on ebay right now.  Worth keeping an eye on.

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  • 3 months later...

Figured I would drag this out of the basement as I have had some revived interest in it from random ads I have out there. 

Trades welcomed as I mentioned I have alot of interests Automobile wise especially prewar coupes and convertibles.  I don't have to sell it,  just to free up space and play money,  but it does look pretty cool sitting in the corner across from my Auburn so if it doesn't it won't bother me too much.  

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11 hours ago, auburnseeker said:

Figured I would drag this out of the basement as I have had some revived interest in it from random ads I have out there. 

Trades welcomed as I mentioned I have alot of interests Automobile wise especially prewar coupes and convertibles.  I don't have to sell it,  just to free up space and play money,  but it does look pretty cool sitting in the corner across from my Auburn so if it doesn't it won't bother me too much.  

Keep it so you'll have the whole set when you buy your Duesenberg. 

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  • 4 weeks later...

It's all in what one wants.  Some guys love the idea that it's a hot rod that hasn't been changed.  A guy could be the only one to pull up with an original most likely 40's or 50's Built Cord phaeton at one of the vintage rod runs and it would pretty much steal the thunder away from almost every A-V8 or 32-34 Ford there unless it was some incredibly well documented original hot rod with extensive magazine and or TV/Movie exposure and still in original condition,  just based on what it was/is.   It's a survivor good or bad depending on what you want. A stock one will run you another 30G and that would be a (somewhat driveable one that probably really needs to be restored again)  I always said buy a very good sedan parts car for 12 -15.  Harvest everything you need, often times having been rebuilt already and sell the left overs for probably close to 7500 as you need no sheetmetal to a hot rodder or dreamer.  You could also sell the heads and intake off the engine for probably another $2000-$3000 to recover more of the cost of the sedan.  Lots of options,  but you aren't starting with a rust bucket from the east and the work done was mostly mechanical with no real major body modifications to the shell and no additions of any garbage or missing crucial Cosmetic pieces.   

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  • 3 months later...

A friend just alerted me to it.  So far for the most part, comments seem very civil and even favorable.  We'll see if it deteriorates.  Good thing is in the comments someone references the ad here so it should help drive traffic to this site regardless of wether it generates a sale or not. 

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12 hours ago, auburnseeker said:

A friend just alerted me to it.  So far for the most part, comments seem very civil and even favorable.  We'll see if it deteriorates.  Good thing is in the comments someone references the ad here so it should help drive traffic to this site regardless of wether it generates a sale or not. 

 

You are too nice a guy.   I try very hard not to get in to Internet shouting matches but the Barn Find comment sections bring out the worst in me.  

 

And you are welcome for posting the cross reference in the comments.    The dinks were crapping over your advertisement which I thought was more than good.

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Most of the comments are posted by guys driving their “vintage 1994 Toyota”.........The internet has made experts and opinion makers out of people that are as dumb as a box of rocks.

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2 hours ago, alsancle said:

And you are welcome for posting the cross reference in the comments.    The dinks were crapping over your advertisement which I thought was more than good.

I did take a bit of offense in the one guy that said I provided no information.  Must be he has never seen the ads most people post on craigslist or facebook.  No price,  no description,  one crappy photo taken while the car is still wet. Some internet ads don't even give any idea to location.  Usually a very large factor in the sale of a car,  especially those under 10 grand as proper transport can add another 25% or better , at the 10G mark,  to the total price.

 

Yup it's not running but I clearly stated up front it most likely needed every mechanical system completely rebuilt.  

Of course maybe he only read the title?

 

I did also state price was a starting point based on gut feel.  Yup it hasn't sold yet,  but that can mean a few things.  The most likely being it's priced above what the flippers will pay for it.  They are often the fast sale.  It's a unique car that's going to need to find just the right buyer.  I knew that when I marketed it. I haven't tried real hard to sell it.  Looks good where it sits.  It's mechanically not going backward and of course with Vicky not likely to be headed for prime shop time.  It's in a dry Dehumidifed, Heated, and Air conditioned garage.  It will probably look just about like it does in 10 years if I don't sell it or swap it.  Just looking at it gives me quite a bit of pleasure,  like the Advertising I have hanging on the walls around it now.  I know we are suppose to drive them,  but I do the others and have commissioned plenty of other old cars to go back on the road and moved them on.   

I just figured maybe someone wanted to give her a go and I would give her that chance if they came along.  

 

I have had one guy pretty serious about it,  but he's trying to work out a difficult trade angle so that may pan out some day or maybe not.  It's interesting to see what he turns up, so I don't mind it. 

 

We all know Cords are for special people and those that have them tend to love them once sorted.  This one requires an extra level or two of special person,  so a much smaller pool of interest.   I knew that before even trying to offer her. 

 

If nothing else,  the right donor car will come at the right time and I'll pick it up,  then maybe my efforts on her will be reignited and she will get put back in operating condition. 

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4 minutes ago, auburnseeker said:

I did take a bit of offense in the one guy that said I provided no information.  Must be he has never seen the ads most people post on craigslist or facebook.  No price,  no description,  one crappy photo taken while the car is still wet. Some internet ads don't even give any idea to location.  Usually a very large factor in the sale of a car,  especially those under 10 grand as proper transport can add another 25% or better , at the 10G mark,  to the total price.

 

Yup it's not running but I clearly stated up front it most likely needed every mechanical system completely rebuilt.  

Of course maybe he only read the title?

 

Welcome to my world brother. We post 1000+ words describing every car (and not 800 words copy/pasted from Wikipedia and 200 words about shiny paint), 80-120 photos of each car including well-lit undercarraige shots and relevant numbers/details, plus a video with a cold start and run from both engine bay and exhaust.

 

90% of E-mails and calls still start with, "So what can you tell me about the car?"

 

source.gif

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I think they might be testing you Matt to see if your words match the description.  

I know i tend to talk people out of cars when I talk to them on the phone as I try to gauge what they are looking for and usually can tell it's not the right car.  Usually by the time the guy shows up to look at the car I'm pretty sure he's going to take it,  or not find anything that will make him walk away.  As you know it's difficult with alot of old cars,  as many are just not that good.  I really love selling an all original untouched car,  as there are no excuses. I'm sure you are the same way.   Unfortunately too many are not that way. I'm starting to learn to just point them in the direction of the car and let them look it over,  within my eye and ear shot but to not interject myself unless necessary.  

I've learned that no one was there pointing out all the issues when I bought any of them and most were actually trying to hide stuff.  My Dodge would be the perfect example of this and I haven't even driven it yet. 

Even the guys that looked it over for me,  that were both suppose to be professionals missed ALOT, even though I asked them to look at specific things that were clearly not right when I got it.  

 

Chalk it up as a learning experience.  

Now mechanics aside (still unknown, but bought accordingly) Victoria has been the exact opposite, which I will take any day.  I would rather have my Dodge turn out to be a turd than my Auburn. ;) 

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 2/25/2020 at 2:31 PM, trimacar said:

My sympathy (and empathy!) to the person replacing the top.  Not the most complicated in the world, but enough so to be a real pain.  The worst top to put on in my experience (see picture) is a Packard Darrin, there's no front top bow, just a couple of pieces of metal, but that's another story.....

2a.jpg

Horrid cars to put tops on - lots of extra work involved - my upholsterer says if I bring him another he will smack me silly. 

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