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Finally getting started on my interior. Pulled the rear lower seat and made it this far. Parts are from Clarks.

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Clark’s have good stuff. One exception is the vinyl button covers come off. In three years I’ve had to re attach about 10 button covers. I use 2 part clear expoy to secure the vinyl button top to the metal button dome.

Hopefully, your buttons stay put.

Turbinator

Edited by Turbinator (see edit history)
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19 minutes ago, dr914 said:

I agree, Clark's is great, but several of my buttons have come off as well

As you see, I left the buttons off on purpose for these reasons and more. I actually like the look without them.

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1 hour ago, crowvet said:

As you see, I left the buttons off on purpose for these reasons and more. I actually like the look without them.

Win win situation. Only reason I put buttons on was an effort to stay stock. I’d just as have no buttons for practical reasons.

Turbinator

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Your springs look to be in good shape. Did you have to rebuild any of them?

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2 hours ago, RivNut said:

Your springs look to be in good shape. Did you have to rebuild any of them?

No, I wire brushed then sprayed them with rubberized undercoating.

 

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22 hours ago, crowvet said:

Tore more apart today

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Does anyone perusing this thread have a source or suggestion for the insulation found under the console?

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I just removed mine and used dynamat style insulation there instead. Its superior to the old batting insulation and also provides additional sound deadening on the tunnel.  I actually put down stinger roadkill insulation (similar to dynamat but better amd cheaper) in my entire interior when I recently redid the upholstery and carpeting. I also put it behind the dash and on the underside of the dash cover panel and on the panel behind the rear seats. If you want to stick with something similar to that original batting, lowes and home depot sells similar batting insulation with foil on one.side.  its sold near the plumbing pipe insulation in like 10 foot rolls. I put some of that on my firewall and behind the desk where the roadkill wouldn't fit or.didnt  make sense. 

 

Raul

 

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12 hours ago, 64Rivvy said:

I just removed mine and used dynamat style insulation there instead. Its superior to the old batting insulation and also provides additional sound deadening on the tunnel.  I actually put down stinger roadkill insulation (similar to dynamat but better amd cheaper) in my entire interior when I recently redid the upholstery and carpeting. I also put it behind the dash and on the underside of the dash cover panel and on the panel behind the rear seats. If you want to stick with something similar to that original batting, lowes and home depot sells similar batting insulation with foil on one.side.  its sold near the plumbing pipe insulation in like 10 foot rolls. I put some of that on my firewall and behind the desk where the roadkill wouldn't fit or.didnt  make sense. 

 

Raul

 

Much appreciated!

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I purchased the Fiberglass rear package tray from Clarks. How did those of you that have used this attach it? Or did you just lay it in place. It comes with no holes. if you screwed it down, what type of screws did you use and how did you determine where to drill the holes?

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Did you not keep your old onecas a guide?  I know that there are three exposed screws under the window but it's been a long time and I'm not sure of the rest.  I think that the body manual has an illustration  in it.

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I do have my original, just seems these holes need to be pretty precise. By laying the old one on top of the new, I would think you could be off at least 1/8 inch. Also a tapered screw seems like a poor fit into the fiberglass? My thought was the ones with the chrome washer built on to them?

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22 minutes ago, crowvet said:

I do have my original, just seems these holes need to be pretty precise. By laying the old one on top of the new, I would think you could be off at least 1/8 inch. Also a tapered screw seems like a poor fit into the fiberglass? My thought was the ones with the chrome washer built on to them?

This is def making me second guess buying the rear package shelf from Clarks...

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1 hour ago, DrownedRiv said:

This is def making me second guess buying the rear package shelf from Clarks...

Anything you buy in the way of a package tray is going to take some work on your part to get it to fit exactly. Clark's is still the way to go.

 

One idea - If the tray will go into place by laying it in with out sliding it, slap some paint around the hole, lay the shelf in place, and the paint will transfer to the shelf. You'll then know where the holes are.  Or, pick out where you want the trim screw to be seen, mark the shelf, put it in place, then drill through the shelf AND the body making both holes so you know that they will line up.  The more you think about it and play with it, the sooner you'll come up with a solution. I checked and you cannot reach the level where the shelf lies by climbing into the trunk and working from the back side. 

 

Makes me wonder if Fisher Body predrilled the hole in the first place or whether they worked with a jig and drilled the holes in the shelf and the body at the same time.

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23 hours ago, crowvet said:

I purchased the Fiberglass rear package tray from Clarks. How did those of you that have used this attach it? Or did you just lay it in place. It comes with no holes. if you screwed it down, what type of screws did you use and how did you determine where to drill the holes?

 

Hi Daryle,

 

Can you post a photo of your original package tray, and a pic of Clars tray for comparison?  

 

I'm considering replaing the package tray on my '65 and wonder how similar the Clarks tray is to the original. 

 

Do I assume correctly that you have to paint the Clarks tray to match your interior?

 

Thanks

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2 hours ago, 65VerdeGS said:

 

Hi Daryle,

 

Can you post a photo of your original package tray, and a pic of Clars tray for comparison?  

 

I'm considering replaing the package tray on my '65 and wonder how similar the Clarks tray is to the original. 

 

Do I assume correctly that you have to paint the Clarks tray to match your interior?

 

Thanks

I will post some pictures in a couple days. I had them cover mine with vinyl to match the interior. It really does look and fit nice. Just don't want to mess up on the holes

 

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9 hours ago, RivNut said:

Anything you buy in the way of a package tray is going to take some work on your part to get it to fit exactly. Clark's is still the way to go.

 

One idea - If the tray will go into place by laying it in with out sliding it, slap some paint around the hole, lay the shelf in place, and the paint will transfer to the shelf. You'll then know where the holes are.  Or, pick out where you want the trim screw to be seen, mark the shelf, put it in place, then drill through the shelf AND the body making both holes so you know that they will line up.  The more you think about it and play with it, the sooner you'll come up with a solution. I checked and you cannot reach the level where the shelf lies by climbing into the trunk and working from the back side. 

 

Makes me wonder if Fisher Body predrilled the hole in the first place or whether they worked with a jig and drilled the holes in the shelf and the body at the same time.

Excellent ideas, my thought was modelling clay balls in the holes with some Prussian blue on it. The tray really is high quality, I just don't see how the normal tapered screw heads will countersink into the fiberglass. I also had the tray covered in vinyl, so I thought they might grab and roll the vinyl? This is why I am leaning toward screws with the chrome

 washers attached. At $300 I don't want to make a mistake.

 

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Posted (edited)

I'm pretty sure that the factory screws were ones that had a trim washer on them.  Even if they didn't the new ones will look professional (and who's going to know anyway?)

 

I just remembered this.  A number of years ago, I bought a couple of 1963 parts cars.  One. was pretty much a rust bucket, but it was complete.  My step-son and I took every single trim screw from the car, put each in a sandwich bag, and labeled it. I then sent all of the labeled sandwich bags to Glenn at Mr. G's Enterprises. He proceeded to take them a make a complete kit which he now has for sale.  Check his website for it.  The screws in the kit will replace every screw that is visible in the interior.  There is also a complete list of the screws and where each goes.  Might be worth looking into.

 

You'll find Glenn's website at Mr G's Enterprises

www.mrgusa.com 

Part number GM1117. 

Download the PDF for GM interior kits

Edited by RivNut (see edit history)
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I second the kit from Mr. G.  I bought an interior kit and it's been great as I redo the interior. Each bag is individually labeled and numbered tying back to a master list of where the screws go. Most are indistinguishable from original hardware though not all are perfect reproductions. 

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I just started the install of my package tray from Clarks.  You should be able to see the center hole for the screws under the rear window from inside the trunk (there are three screws).  I laid my package tray in place and drilled out the center hole from the trunk using a long bit.  Once I had the center hole I measured and made new holes for the two remaining screws, from the inside of the car, so they looked evenly spaced and at the same level. I was not overly concerned with using the original holes for the two outside screws.

 

The screws from the Mr G's kit are shown in the attached pic

 

Hope that helps

Doug  

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I recently installed a rear package tray from Clarks myself.  I bought a roll of heavy duty velcro and used it across the back so that i didnt need to drill those 3 holes.  Worked really well.

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