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diverter/ valve replacement question


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The cabin heater has a valve or diverter right behind the radiator that was leaking. We found this part (pic1vid1) and its pretty close although the orientation of the nipples is not exactly correct. And more importantly the little bracket that holds the diverter doesn't hold the new diverter in the same way the old one was held. I took videos as well that i included links to. 2nd pic old diverter

As you can see the nipple on the right side (pics) of the new one goes a different direction.

Any suggestions?

 

Thanks for all the help on this awesome forum! Happy Holidays!

 

 

Bracket part number#844

Old diverter # 4462375 and 30595

New diverter #74777

New diverter.JPG

old diverter.JPG

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  • 2 weeks later...

If you don't care about 100% originality you can try to find a J-hose that is shaped so that you can use a splice connection to your heater hose.

 

These diverter valves are known failure points for anything that uses them (Fords do, too).

 

You also have the option of removing the valve all together and just bypassing it. The only side effect is that you may feel heat from the driver's floor vent and the A/C might not be *as* cold. But, it's a convertible, so...meh.

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  • 3 weeks later...
On 1/6/2020 at 11:52 AM, Reaper1 said:

If you don't care about 100% originality you can try to find a J-hose that is shaped so that you can use a splice connection to your heater hose.

 

These diverter valves are known failure points for anything that uses them (Fords do, too).

 

You also have the option of removing the valve all together and just bypassing it. The only side effect is that you may feel heat from the driver's floor vent and the A/C might not be *as* cold. But, it's a convertible, so...meh.

@Reaper1

I bought a diverter valve from rock auto that is basically the same as the original...but now she is leaking antifreeze worse than before. I'm going to work on her this weekend to find out where the leak is coming from. I might just remove the valve and bypass it. Does this affect the heat temperature range to the cabin? I'm not worried about the ac as much.

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On 1/24/2020 at 5:07 AM, Hemi Dude said:

IF YOU BYPASS THE VALVE, you may find that as you drive, the temperature gauge will be erratic. Showing large temperature fluctuations as the engine is in warmup stage.

Interesting. I personally haven't had that happen, but I suppose it's possible. I know folks that bypass the heater core seem to have overheating issues for some reason. I am still trying to wrap my head around that one.

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Because when the thermostat is closed during warmup, you cut off the bypass which allows water to circulate prior to the thermostat opening.

Other engines like the /6 and 318 for instance, have bypass hoses that we are familiar with. The 3.0L also has it's bypass hose if you recall.

The 2.2/2.5 engines run the bypass water through that heater shut-off valve which is also the path for the coolant bypass system.

Edited by Hemi Dude
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19 hours ago, Reaper1 said:

Interesting. I personally haven't had that happen, but I suppose it's possible. I know folks that bypass the heater core seem to have overheating issues for some reason. I am still trying to wrap my head around that one.

 

will12 wrote "You also have the option of removing the valve all together and just bypassing it. The only side effect is that you may feel heat from the driver's floor vent and the A/C might not be *as* cold. But, it's a convertible, so...meh."

That is because you are using the heater core as your bypass circuit. Doing it that way eliminates the bypass problem but as you can see, gives you hot water through the heater core at all times. In Arizona where summerr temperatures are between 110 and 125, the last thing you need is hot water through the heater core.

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4 hours ago, Hemi Dude said:

Because when the thermostat is closed during warmup, you cut off the bypass which allows water to circulate prior to the thermostat opening.

Other engines like the /6 and 318 for instance, have bypass hoses that we are familiar with. The 3.0L also has it's bypass hose if you recall.

The 2.2/2.5 engines run the bypass water through that heater shut-off valve which is also the path for the coolant bypass system.

Ah, ok. Makes me wonder why those guys didn't just run a bypass hose? Would have been pretty simple. I don't get rid of the heater core because you need to be able to defog the windshield, even at the track.

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