Receiving 1926 Buick Master Six soon.

[MiniCJJ64]

Hi my dad and I is about to be owners of a 1926 Buick Master six soon.  It was bought brand new in 1926 by my great great grandfather.  What I was told about it is it ran last in the late 60’s and has been in a garage since then.  Someone in the family has said the engine is seized, but I am sure it’s seized from just sitting.  Anyways when we receive this car I was wondering what should we start doing to it to get it running again.

 

Thanks for the replies

[Bloo]

If it were mine, the very first thing I would do is take the spark plugs out and spray penetrating oil in the cylinders. Get it soaking as soon as possible, because it is going to take days, maybe months. After that, just start cleaning it up and seeing what is bad and what is good. Figure out whether the doors are floppy, and how much wood work it is likely to need.

 

I like it. It looks like a great project, and it is extremely cool that it has been in your family so long.

 

Welcome to the forum!

 

[Hubert_25-25]

 

     Welcome to the forum.  You have a really nice car to start with.  Much better than what a lot of us have started with.  You will get lots of help.  We will need to know what level of detail you want to do your restoration to.  There is a lot to do and I don't need to tell you that.  This is a long term project.  It can overwhelm you quickly so tell us what you want to tackle first.   Pasted here is what I send most new owners as it was very helpful when I was given this same advise.

 

Hugh

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New Buick Owners Guide & Prewar Starting guide.          Hugh Leidlein                  2-19-20   C

Welcome to Buick ownership.  Here are some tips to get you started.

The following books are necessary for Pre war Buick Ownership.   They come based on 4 cylinder or 6 cylinder models prior to 1925, or for Standard or Master 1925 and up.  Basically around 115” wheelbase is the smaller Buick series and 120 to 128” wheelbase is the larger Buick series. 

The Buick Heritage Alliance sells the following books.  The quality of the copies is only “fair” in many cases.  This may work for some people, depending on how many pieces your car is missing or needing.  I suggest buying an original book of parts if you can find it due to the better print quality.   

1)      The “Book of Parts” for your year.  

2)      The “Shop Manual” for your year

3)      The “reference book” for your year (of lesser importance if you can find a shop manual).

It is helpful in many cases to obtain copies of the parts books for 1 or 2 years before and after your model year.  Many times there is additional information or photos that will help with your understanding.

Note: Only a handful of parts used on a 4 cylinder model fit a 6 cylinder model.  Same with so few Standard parts will fit a Master.  The 4 cylinder line became the Standard, and the 6 cylinder line became the Master so there is interchangeability in that order.  Parts interchange is closest based on wheelbase of the models      

There is also available a big book of parts “Buick Master Parts List 1916-1932”.  This 3” thick book provides a listing of the years and models for each part.  You will have better luck finding a part knowing it’s year and model range rather than just looking for a single year.   This book does not have a lot of pictures and will not be a good substitute for the book of parts for your year, but I refer to this book frequently.   Some find it of little use - based on how many parts they are missing.

There are almost zero “exploded views” of parts, so take a lot of photos and notes during disassembly. 

------------ Precautions------ THESE ARE NOT MODERN ENGINES------Damage can occur.

The first order is usually to see if the engine will turn over.  Do the following first.

1)      Pull the Water pump hoses

 The water pump is on the side of the motor.  The issue is that the camshaft gear is fiber on 1924-1928 Buick 6 cylinders, and it drives the waterpump.  If the water pump is frozen or drags, it will destroy the timing gear teeth.  Parts will fall in the engine.  The camshaft gears are expensive and new gears are not of the same quality as the originals.  The first order of business should be to remove the water pump hoses to ensure the pump rotates on the shaft.   Without the hoses, it should rotate 180 degrees. Note that some earlier models have a water pump housing bolt that also needs to be removed.       

Water pump shafts are steel unless a recent replacement to stainless.  The water pump bearings are bronze.  If the antifreeze was not cared for, rust on the WP shaft could wear the bronze bearings out quickly.  The WP seal is graphite packing.  The wear surface should be smooth and the packing should only be tight enough to prevent major leaks of the waterpump.  It should drip a little bit here and there.  If it does not, the packing is too tight.  Most people replace the shaft with a stainless steel shaft.

2)      Change the oil (and filter if it has one).  Strongly consider dropping the oil pan as well. 

An oil change is probably long overdue.   Don’t cut corners and skip dropping the pan.  Pre 1926 cars had no oil filter.  Non detergent oil was used for years, and there is likely a lot of sludge in the oil pan.  I have seen the oil pick up screens clogged from sludge, and this will starve the engine and could suck the screen in.  Bob’s Automobilia or Olsons Gaskets has an oil pan gasket set.  This is not a hard job.

3)      Oil the Cylinders

Pull the spark plugs, put some oil in the cylinders.  If penetrating oil or Marvel mystery oil was used in the cylinders, you must follow it with regular oil once the engine begins to turn. 

4)      Pull the valve cover. 

Squirt oil on the rocker assembly.  Bump the rockers with a rubber mallet over the valve springs to ensure that all the valves move.  Drip oil on the valve stems if you can.

5)      Pull the engine side covers.

Squirt oil on the cam shaft rollers (and cam bearings if you can get to them). 

After doing the above 5 items, you could rotate the motor, even crank it with the starter.  If the engine is or was frozen, let the cylinders soak for at least a week in penetrating lube.  It is best to try to unstick a frozen engine from the flywheel end and not the hand crank end.  The handcrank is not that strong.  Put the transmission in 1^st gear.  Use 4 people (2 in front and 2 at the back) to rock the car back and forth in an effort to free the pistons.  Parts frozen by rust come apart easier if you work the frozen part back and forth rather than continually forcing the rotation thru the rust.  Reversing rotation allows some rust to move out of compression between the parts.

Note that the pistons are removed only from the bottom of the engine on early Buick motors.  If you do get the engine to rotate, strongly consider pulling the pistons out the bottom and cleaning the cylinder walls and the ring grooves and doing an inspection - prior to reinstalling and firing the engine.     

It would be great to get a compression tester.  Around 60 lbs pressure in each cylinder is a good motor.  There should be less than 10% deviation in each cylinder.  Spark plug adapters are available from Ford Model A parts suppliers.    

Cranking the motor is a good thing to check off the list.  A compression test gives a good check on the health of the motor. 

Preparing for starting – knowing that the motor turns over:

1)      Pull the carburetor. 

a)      Clean out the fuel bowl. 

b)      Use carburetor cleaner to ensure all internal passages blow thru. 

c)       Consider installing a Nitrolphyl float – available from Bob’s Automobilia or Gregg Lange. 

d)      Check that the air valve lays smooth against the carburetor inside diameter and that there is a narrow gap at the base of the air valve.  You may need to file the pot metal venturi block.  There are AACA forum posts on this – search using the quote “Marvel Carburetor Rebuilding”.

2)      Check that the exhaust manifold valve (on the front end of the exhaust manifold) is open.  There are AACA forum posts on this – search using the quote “Buick Exhaust valve removal”.

3)      Rebuild the distributor.  The distributor should rotate by the advance levers on the steering column.  Several years of distributors were pot metal and the distributor housing will grow and freeze into the generator housing.   Replace with a steel Buick distributor from other years.  Do not force the movement as there are potmetal gears at the base of the steering column that are not that strong.  There are AACA forum posts on this – search using the quote “Distributor Replacement”.  Also search for “Distributor rebuilding”.

4)      Rebuild the Water pump. (see the forum for upgrades to the seals and shaft). There are AACA forum posts on this – search using the quote “Water Pump Rebuilding”.

5)      The fan hub is an old design that requires frequent oiling and will leak oil all over the motor.  Replace it with a sealed bearing hub – Several suppliers for this.  Search the AACA Forum “fan hub replacement”.

6)      Rebuild the vacuum tank and gas tank * I prefer to do the “fuel supply” system later as there is a lot to this.  For a first start, I hang a 1 quart used lawnmower tank and feed the carburetor with this from a reinforced rubber fuel hose, or just pour gas in the vacuum tank.  It will hold about a quart. Search the AACA Forum “vacuum tank rebuilding”.

 

Other notes:

Oil and grease is usually long overdue for removing the old and installing new (and not just installing new.)  Clean out as much of the old as you can first.

 

Engines that have laid dormant for decades may have significant rust in the engine block.  You do not want this in your honeycomb radiator as they cannot be rodded out.  Consider installing a Gano filter into the top radiator hose to catch sediment and keep rust out of the radiator.  Also consider removing the engine freeze plugs and cleaning any rust out of the block, or at least reverse flushing out the engine water jacket with water and without radiator hoses just prior to start up.

The firing order is 142635.  (Reverse of a modern engine)

Pot metal failures cause problems.  The following areas will likely need attention

1.       Distributors – housing growth prevents spark advance.  discussed above

2.       Carburetor – venture growth – prevents easy starting and idling – discussed above

3.       Ignition switch – switch shaft grows, housing hole grows smaller-  Bob’s Automobilia has parts-replace both housing and switches.

4.       Speedometers – internals freeze up.  Disconnect the cable to prevent cable damage. 

 

New Buick Owners order of work 2.

 

1) Pull the water pump off first.   The 2 hoses are old and need replacement anyways.  The pump can now be rebuilt .  

2) squirt some oil in the cylinders.  About a tablespoons worth in each.  Consider even using engine fogging spray to lubricate the cylinder walls

3) Are you willing to drain the oil and drop the pan.  I have not found a person who has ever said dropping the pan was a waste of time.  If nothing else, you have peace of mind that any old engine sludge is not lurking.  Most people are glad that they dropped to pan and cleaned the pan out.  Inspect the oil pump and the oil pump screen.  Consider pulling the oil pump and having it checked.    Egge can rebuild it if necessary and install a new pressure relief valve spring.  I have seen several broken springs. 

4) Pull the valve cover and side covers.  Oil the valve train.  Check that each rocker arm and cam roller  moves.  

5) Put 6 volts on the starter and see if it operates on the floor.  You can use 12 volts if you keep the time short.  Say 15 seconds, then rest time for any heat to be removed.  Consider having it rebuilt while it is out.       

6) Install new gaskets on the Oil pan.  Add Fresh oil and a new filter.    

With the water pump off, and the valve train checked and oiled, you should be able to turn the engine without damaging anything.  If you have the hand crank, a couple rotations should tell if everything is moving.  Do the initial cranking with the spark plugs out.  If it hand cranks well, put the starter motor in and give it a few more rotations.  

Install the valve cover and side covers and gaskets after you have witnessed that all the valve train parts are operating properly.  

After this, we work on ignition and carburation, so lets start with the above first to keep the work manageable.  The goal is pumping fresh oil thru the motor and that it turns over.      Hugh 

Edited May 23, 2020 by Hubert_25-25 (see edit history)

[MiniCJJ64]

Thanks for the awesome reply.  I sure am glad you have great details.  I am going to try my hardest not to break anything.  Also I forgot to add.  We will start with the easy free/labor stuff first.  Learn as much as possible and free up the motor and get it running.  Change oils and do adjustments.  All in all get it running and enjoy it as is until we decide how much we want to restore it.  Leaving it as original as possible. 

 

Edited December 21, 2019 by MiniCJJ64 (see edit history)

[Mark Kikta]

My 1922 Buick had been sitting since 1959 when I bought it.  I soaked, soaked and soaked the cylinders for 2 1/2 months with a rotating combination of PB blaster, Marvel Mystery oil and ATF.   Loosened one connecting rod and was able to move #1 piston about 1/2 inch using wooden dowl with relatively light impacts with a hammer. That was at about 2 months since I started soaking. Finally after the 2 1/2 months I moved the crank ever so slightly using a flywheel turner and then I used a back and forth motion turning the flywheel until I could easily make a 360 degree turn.

 

I do believe the tappets could have contributed since some were very difficult to move/ remove.  I soaked them with PB Blaster about as long as I soaked the pistons. I made sure my valvetrain was removed before trying to turn the crank so I had no chance of breaking anything.

[MiniCJJ64]

Should I removed the engine head before I try rotating the engine? 

[Crazyfamily]

Our ‘27 sat for some 20-ish years and I followed Hugh’s list and didn’t have any issues.  I did pull the plugs and every two weeks I’d squirt Marvel Mystery Oil and Kroil into the cylinders.  Then two weeks later I’d repeat and after a month or so I slowly started to hand crank the engine over.

 

I was worried their would be rust on the cylinder walls so I was very careful.  
 

🤞🏼🤞🏼 No issues that the folks here haven’t been able to help me resolve yet!!

 

Invaluable resource here to say the least.!!

 

EDIT:

I want to add that my engine was free and not seized in anyway, I mentioned putting MM and Kroil in the cylinders every two weeks due to the fact that the car sat for 20+ years in a non climate controlled garage and I didn’t want to have any issue if possible!!

 

My statements above earlier made it sound like my engine was seized and I wanted to clarify!

Edited December 25, 2019 by Crazyfamily (see edit history)

[Morgan Wright]

Don't put more than 7 ounces of liquid in each cylinder to soak. If you do, you won't be able to turn the engine if the spark plugs are in due to hydro lock. Your engine is 274 cubic inches which is 46 cubic inches per cylinder. If the compression ratio is 4.5 to 1 your combustion chamber is 13.1 cubic inches which is 0.9 cups  ≈ 7 ounces. 

 

46 + x = 4.5 x

 

46 = 3.5 x

 

46 / 3.5 = x

 

x   ≈  13.1

[Hubert_25-25]

The pistons come out the bottom on these engines. You don’t really need to pull the head at this point.  You want the plugs out to put lubricant into the cylinders. I like the idea of working from the flywheel end and not the hand crank for getting the engine to turn.  The hand crank assembly is not that strong.  Soaking and patience are key.  After the soaking, leave it in gear and get 4 people (2 front 2 back) and push the car back and forth and see if that bumping is enough to get it to break free. Be sure the water pump is free or removed. 

Edited December 22, 2019 by Hubert_25-25 (see edit history)

[Morgan Wright]

After you put the soaking solution in, put the plugs back in so the acetone doesn't all evaporate. It probably will anyway which is why people mix it with something that will stick around for a while. The acetone dissolves the varnish and the ATF replaces it when it evaporates. The reason engines get stuck is the oil and gasoline residue turns to varnish. 

[Bob Atkinson]

1926 and 1927 models are virtually the same. But, I believe you may have a 1927 Model 47. Quick ways to tell are 1. the data plate on the firewall (if still there) will say 26-47 or 27-47. 2. The visor in 1926 wrapped around the windshield header. In 1927 it attached to the front of the header - from the pictures, this is what makes me think it is a 1927. 3. New for 1927 was a funnel in front of the engine oil filler tube to catch air and ventilate the crankcase. 1926 did not have this. 4. The exhaust manifold for 1927 had studs in the head at the front and rear outer edges. 1926 did not have. 5. The spare tire carrier has the year stamped into it on the riveted on strap that attaches to the frame cross member. You should be able to see it looking down standing behind the car.

[dibarlaw]

Bob is a great resource for this particular model car. Photos when we visited on our way to the BCA nationals in 2017

[27donb]

16 minutes ago, dibarlaw said:

Bob is a great resource for this particular model car. Photos when we visited on our way to the BCA nationals in 2017

 

WOW!

[DonMicheletti]

I dont feel that just changing the oil would be OK if the car has just sat for a long time. If it were mine I'd drop the pan and clean as much as possible, including the oil pump.

Droping the pan is easy and cheap insurance - but dirty.

I believe Bobs Automobilia will have the gasket necessary

[Morgan Wright]

1 hour ago, DonMicheletti said:

I dont feel that just changing the oil would be OK if the car has just sat for a long time. If it were mine I'd drop the pan and clean as much as possible, including the oil pump.

Droping the pan is easy and cheap insurance - but dirty.

I believe Bobs Automobilia will have the gasket necessary

 

You absolutely need to drop the oil pan. Make your own gasket if you can't buy one. Buy the cork gasket material, it usually comes in 36 inch rolls. That's long enough, make 2 gaskets, one for each side. Buy the gasket hole punch by Pittsburgh Tools at Harbor Freight they are cheap:
https://www.harborfreight.com/9-piece-hollow-punch-set-3838.html

.
 

[Mark Shaw]

2 hours ago, Morgan Wright said:

Make your own gasket if you can't buy one.

You can buy one from Olsen's Gaskets.  https://www.olsonsgaskets.com/

 

But, first and foremost, oil everything!  Start with the hood & door hinges so you don't bend or break them while working on other items.  Don't get ahead of yourself by diving into the big jobs first.  Take your time and only do what you know how to do.  Leave the expert jobs to experts.

Edited December 23, 2019 by Mark Shaw (see edit history)

[neatcars]

I have a 1926 Buick Roadster I hope to get going, this thread is helpful and hope to order the reference books. Btw, my family was in the car business in Nashville and my father traded for this car. I never saw it run but I think I have something to work with. Some parts have been removed(spark plugs, starter, maybe fuel pump(I know someone said that wasn't working at one time), but the restoration is showing some age, I had is stored in not the best place for a while. Looking forward to sharing and getting some feedback on steps to take, and what to watch out for. Shelby in Nashville. 

 

 

[Hubert_25-25]

Shelby, 

   Welcome to the forum.  Thanks for posting the pictures.  It looks like you have a solid car as well to start on.  These are a lot of steps to sort thru so we just need to break things down into maneagable pieces.  I hope you have read the new Buick owners guide above.  Next the question is where do you want to start.  My suggestion - getting the motor to turn over first:  

1) Pull the water pump off first.   The 2 hoses are old and need replacement anyways.  The pump can now be rebuilt .  

2) squirt some oil in the cylinders.  About a tablespoons worth in each.  Consider even using engine fogging spray to lubricate the cylinder walls

3) Are you willing to drain the oil and drop the pan.  I have not found a person who has ever said dropping the pan was a waste of time.  If nothing else, you have peace of mind that any old engine sludge is not lurking.  Most people are glad that they dropped to pan and cleaned the pan out.  Inspect the oil pump and the oil pump screen.  Consider pulling the oil pump and having it checked.    Egge can rebuild it if necessary and install a new pressure relief valve spring.  I have seen several broken springs. 

4) Pull the valve cover and side covers.  Oil the valve train.  Check that each rocker arm moves.  

5) Put 6 volts on the starter and see if it operates on the floor.  You can use 12 volts if you keep the time short.  Say 15 seconds, then rest time for any heat to be removed.  Consider having it rebuilt while it is out.       

6) Install new gaskets on the Oil pan.  Add Fresh oil and a new filter.    

With the water pump off, and the valve train checked and oiled, you should be able to turn the engine without damaging anything.  If you have the hand crank, a couple rotations should tell if everything is moving.  Do the initial cranking with the spark plugs out.  If it hand cranks well, put the starter motor in and give it a few more rotations.  

Install the valve cover ande side covers and gaskets after you have witnessed that all the valve train parts are operating properly.  

After this, we work on ignition and carburation, so lets start with the above first to keep the work manageable.  The goal is pumping fresh oil thru the motor and that it turns over.      Hugh  

[neatcars]

Hugh, thanks so much. I'm already behind but this is great start. A couple of questions, rebuilding the water pump? how difficult is that? Hoses? any source info on that? I'm willing to drop the oil pan, actually still have a lift. Battery sizing? Gaskets. Oil and filter specs. Also, at this point I can't put my hands on spark plugs, availability of those? The fuel pump which I heard is some type of vacuum operated unit was supposedly not working. 

 

I'm going to look for the books referenced above and see if I can learn a bit about the operation of this thing. 

 

Thank you again, this is very helpful and I have plenty to do. 

 

S. 

[critterpainter]

Bobs Automobilia will have the water pump kit, wingnuts for the spark plug cover and a tune-up kit.  careful with the Dist as yours looks like its pot metal.

  Original plugs disappeared over  50 years ago. Replacements are available but are longer and can short out on spark plug cover.   Bobs Automobilia  805-434-2963

[Oregon Desert model 45]

search for Spark plug Autolite 3076. these are the short plugs that fit under the cover

Your local Napa auto parts store might even have them in stock.

[Hubert_25-25]

Shelby,

Egge machine can rebuild your water pump.  The water pump is not that difficult to rebuild.  I have no understanding of your experience level and access to tools.  At least yours is less complicated than mine having a single seal instead of a double seal.  Here is the pump rebuilding procedure.

https://forums.aaca.org/topic/322398-1925-earlier-buick-water-pump-rebuilding-procedure/?tab=comments#comment-1843255

Regarding a battery, My preference is a 6 volt Optima red top battery.  Basically only 1 size.  The reason I mention using a 12 volt battery, is if you buy a 6 volt now, it will probably be out of life or a lot older just sitting by the time you are ready to really need it and go out on the road.  You can get by with a 12 volt and jumper cables for now.  It will turn the motor over with the plugs out.  Once you are ready to put gas into it, then think about getting a 6 volt battery.  Same with tires.  Delay that purchase as long as you can.  New tires and batteries are easy to do, but these are long term projects and these items should be purchased as late as possible to have the newest stuff when they will be actually put into service.

 

Start with a set of Champion W89D plugs.  You can get them at any auto parts store.  They will fit under the spark plug cover.

You can get the gaskets direct from Olsons gaskets.

No oil filter in 1925, so ask Bob's about a filter.   Any oil you use is better than the oil of the 20's.  Clean out the pan and use a 10W40 or SAE 30 brand that you like.  I prefer a multigrade.

 

I like my vacuum tank.  They are easy to put back into service.  Flush out the gas tank, blow thru the gas lines.  Remove the vacuum tank from the firewall, clean it out and reassemble it.  Bob's has the tank kit.  I have a vacuum tank rebuilding procedure when you are ready for it.  I also have procedures for rebuilding the carburetor (it has defective potmetal parts inside it) and distributor replacement (If a magnet will not stick to your distributor housing-it needs a replacement), and your fan hub will need an upgrade, and your ignition switch will need pot metal replacement parts.  Do a search on the forum for my procedures or ask when you are ready to work on them.  I could load all the links here, but it would be premature.  The most value you obtain on your car is in this order.  Can you safely crank it and pump oil thru it.  Will it start.  Will it drive.  Focus on cranking it.   Hugh  

 

 

   

 

 

Edited April 18, 2020 by Hubert_25-25 (see edit history)

[Morgan Wright]

Finding a filter element for that oil filter will be as hard as finding an N95 face mask. Do NOT throw out the old one, you might need it when rigging a new filter element to fit the cannister.

[neatcars]

11 hours ago, Hubert_25-25 said:

Shelby,

Egge machine can rebuild your water pump.  The water pump is not that difficult to rebuild.  I have no understanding of your experience level and access to tools.  At least yours is less complicated than mine having a single seal instead of a double seal.  Here is the pump rebuilding procedure.

https://forums.aaca.org/topic/322398-1925-earlier-buick-water-pump-rebuilding-procedure/?tab=comments#comment-1843255

Regarding a battery, My preference is a 6 volt Optima red top battery.  Basically only 1 size.  The reason I mention using a 12 volt battery, is if you buy a 6 volt now, it will probably be out of life or a lot older just sitting by the time you are ready to really need it and go out on the road.  You can get by with a 12 volt and jumper cables for now.  It will turn the motor over with the plugs out.  Once you are ready to put gas into it, then think about getting a 6 volt battery.  Same with tires.  Delay that purchase as long as you can.  New tires and batteries are easy to do, but these are long term projects and these items should be purchased as late as possible to have the newest stuff when they will be actually put into service.

 

Start with a set of Champion W89D plugs.  You can get them at any auto parts store.  They will fit under the spark plug cover.

You can get the gaskets direct from Olsons gaskets.

No oil filter in 1925, so ask Bob's about a filter.   Any oil you use is better than the oil of the 20's.  Clean out the pan and use a 10W40 or SAE 30 brand that you like.  I prefer a multigrade.

 

I like my vacuum tank.  They are easy to put back into service.  Flush out the gas tank, blow thru the gas lines.  Remove the vacuum tank from the firewall, clean it out and reassemble it.  Bob's has the tank kit.  I have a vacuum tank rebuilding procedure when you are ready for it.  I also have procedures for rebuilding the carburetor (it has defective potmetal parts inside it) and distributor replacement (If a magnet will not stick to your distributor housing-it needs a replacement), and your fan hub will need an upgrade, and your ignition switch will need pot metal replacement parts.  Do a search on the forum for my procedures or ask when you are ready to work on them.  I could load all the links here, but it would be premature.  The most value you obtain on your car is in this order.  Can you safely crank it and pump oil thru it.  Will it start.  Will it drive.  Focus on cranking it.   Hugh  

 

 

   

 

 

Thanks again for this, not like I don't have enough on my plate right now but this is inspiring. Thanks to all. Maybe we can get this old girl going again. 

[Hubert_25-25]

Shelby,

    For some reason I could not find my vacuum tank rebuilding procedure in my search, so I am posting it here. 

 

Yes,   your car will go.  It looks to be in good shape overall.  The troubling part is seeing the starter motor out, and the plug wires off and not marked.  Are the spark plugs still in it?     My caution is pulling too many things apart, and then life gets in the way at times.  Better to have some stuff finished in the time you have to work on the car.  I have bought several cars in diassembled shape, and I really wish the owner had just left the car alone.  He would have gotten more money for it.    Hugh

  

[neatcars]

Thanks Hugh/everyone, I have not been able to find the vacuum tank at this point. Are these available? One thing after another. I also noticed quite a bit of corrosion on the bottom of the radiator. Not sure if this is a separate piece from the outside bezel? so I may have more problems. In addition, I need to set this aside and deal with some other fires at this point. I will be back but may be a couple of weeks. 

[neatcars]

Well, I found part of it. drip drip drip. 

 

[Hubert_25-25]

Shelby,

It would be good to pull the radiator out and have it checked.  Make sure they do not overpressure it or paint it black.  The radiator holder (between the shell and the radiator) should be blasted and I suggest powder coating it.  The shell can be renickel plated as well.  Be very careful with that original honeycomb radiator.  Be sure you go to the right radiator shop.   Someone else on the forum will need to give you the dimensions of the vacuum tank and the type.  It would be a Stewart Warner.  Mine is a 215 T for 1925 Standard.    They are on Ebay ocassionally.     Hugh

[dibarlaw]

Hugh:

According to the AACA Dave Chambers articles Stewart #215-A for 1925-1926. #215-T for 1927-1928 Standard 6s. My 1925 has a 215-A.

 I know I have at 2 spares now that one came from the Oregon parts. But as I told you my tank has become erratic and I will need to check out the others I have to check on the best to rebuild.

 

Edited April 25, 2020 by dibarlaw (see edit history)

[Hubert_25-25]

Larry, 

    Thanks for the note because it gave me a chance to look over my vacuum tanks.  I have four tanks in total.  All came from 1925 Buick Standards, but obviously swaps ocurred over time.  All cans are 215_.  The can diameter is 4 1/2" and the can "straight side" length is 8 1/8" (these are longer overall).

My car 215T

Michigan Car 215A - needs minor external tank bottom repair to be servicable.

Oregon blackberry patch car - Too much pitting on the aluminum to tell.  No tank bottom.  

Bend Oregon parts - 215F

So for Shelby, any 215_ tank should work for you.  The letter designation may be differences that are internal, or just basically a time stamp.   The thing to watch for is the condition of the inner tank steel, the cone bottom steel, and the condition of the potmetal top.       Hugh  

Edited April 25, 2020 by Hubert_25-25 (see edit history)

[neatcars]

Thanks, at least I know what I am looking for on the tank. My tank may have been a problem all along, because I remember some conversation and research on that. I don't see a model designation on the top the part I've located and don't know enough at this point to know if what I have is all I need aside from the tank but progress from a couple of days ago anyway. Thanks also for the game plan on the radiator, I may have to research out a good shop for that. The one we used years ago is long gone. This all has been very helpful Thanks Larry also. Oh yeah the headlights bezels seem to be nickel plated but the radiator housing seems to be chromed(?) is this correct? Also, is this what the plugs look like? No joy on those at this point but appear to be available. 

[Morgan Wright]

I'm using Champion 589 in mine and they don't foul like the Autolite ones did. They cost a lot more but worth it.