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How to disassemble exterior handle 1937 plymouth


Mark in SA
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Per the factory service manual.

The handle is held in place by a keeper inside the door lock, to prevent loss of the door handle in the event the escutcheon attaching screws are removed. To remove the handle, remove the screws which attach the escutcheon to the door, turn the remote control door handle to the released position and hold it there- While pulling on the outside handle turn it back and forth to align the door lock latch with the keeper and withdraw the handle. 

I've got a '37 Plymouth that will need this procedure done prior to painting hopefully in the spring of 2020.

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Thanks Carolina Chevrolet for your quick response.   Sure glad I joined this site and Forum cause I have a long way to go.  Once the door handle is out of the door, the handle and the escutcheon are together on the handle but separate pieces.  I would like to separate the escutcheon  from the actual handle so each can be chromed individually.  Would you know how to separate the two pieces for chroming?

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You'll notice that on behind the escutcheon plate there is a sleeve that is dimpled into the main shaft. This sleeve hold the handle together. There should be 2 dimples. What I did on my '36 was to take a small Dremmel cutting wheel and carefully grind away the part of the sleeve that is recessed in the dimples. Mark the very end of the sleeve on the shaft for reference  to reinstall it in the same location.Carefully tap the end of the shaft while holding the escutcheon to start the sleeve moving and it can be worked off of the shaft. You should find a spring and a small washer inside.At the mark on the shaft, using a drill bit to fit a small retainer pin, I just used a small finish nail. carefully drill though the shaft. After reinstallation of the parts and sleeve, insert the retainer pin and this should hold the assy. together. Hope this helps. I have to assume that the handles on your Plymouth and my Dodge should be almost, if not , the same.

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12 hours ago, Carolina Chevrolet said:

WOW... sounds a little tricky.  I will give it a shot  I'm certain you won't find this procedure  in any manual.   I have learned to take pictures with my iPhone on any thing I need to pull apart.   Memory just doesn't seem to be there.  I know chroming now days is never cheap but my guy does a really good job.   Would you or anyone know if there are any after market handles out there which may be a consideration as another option.  I have looked with several companies such as Berbaum and Drake but neither had anything.  Any suggestions would be appreciated.    

 

Jpage…. I have been looking over the handle.  The bushing that is apparently pushed into the handle which holds the square shaft appears to recess into the handle.  When I cut loose the top exposed portion which looks like a washer, will there be an issue with getting the remainder of the retainer out of the handle?  Additionally, after reinstalling and inserting the finishing nail in the hole you drilled, is there a risk of the pin falling out or did you JB weld it or just found a nail that had to be driven in tightly.

 

 

 

Edited by Mark in SA (see edit history)
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These parts were never designed to be repaired or taken apart so there would not be any instructions on how to do so. Post some photos of the handle from behind the escutcheon so I can see if they are the same or similar to the '36. They may be completely different but I don't know that. The shaft is cast or fastened into the handle so it cannot be removed, only the escutcheon needs to be removed. You could cement the pins in the handle, mine were just a press fit.the photos would really help.

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7 minutes ago, Carolina Chevrolet said:

There's a NOS set of '37 external handles up for sale now at the large online auction site. 

Here....https://www.ebay.com/itm/1937-1938-PLYMOUTH-DODGE-EXTERIOR-DOOR-HANDLE-VINTAGE-MOPAR-NOS/283700815738?hash=item420de2e77a:g:RGAAAOSwBY5d6sH0

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Thank  you guys for your responses.   Went to  E bay and yes those are the handles.   Very nice but pretty pricey.  I flagged it in case the price is dropped.   I think I can get mine chromed for $30 each so will try to remove the shaft like suggested by jpage.   I will try and attempt to post some pictures of my handles to see if they are like the 36.   I'm betting they are but lets try to make sure first.    thanks for all your advice!

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2 minutes ago, Mark in SA said:

Took 3 photos but cannot get them to download.  Not sure if it's me or what???  

Thanks for the suggestion on the handle man!

Try to reduce the photo sizes.

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I have the photos selected as small and they are 34 to 46 kb.    When I attempt to insert them on the line that says drag files here, it appears like it 's going to take them then a box jumps up and says  "Allowed file extensions are gif,jpeg jpe jpg and pmg but when I click OK the box goes away but nothing posts.

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I suggest don't "drag" the files, but instead click on the "choose file" option. then a box will pop up and choose your computer pictures folder.

 

 

Drag files here to attach, or choose files...
Accepted file types gif, jpeg, jpe, jpg, png · Max total size 9.77MB

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I've looked at the photos and they are a little different than the '36's. Without closer inspection, I have no real idea of how to disassemble them. I really doubt that you could have handles plated for $30 today and have a quality job. I would expect at the very least between $100- $175 each depending on condition. The ones on Ebay that Keiser posted, look very nice, not perfect, but very nice and I think it would behoove you to consider them, especially if your car is a driver. Sometimes, you get a seller who will allow you to return them if you're not satisfied.Good hunting.

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9 hours ago, mike6024 said:

I suggest don't "drag" the files, but instead click on the "choose file" option. then a box will pop up and choose your computer pictures folder.

 

 

Drag files here to attach, or choose files...IMG_0938.JPG.825f5be073b560614e5fdda4b76e4b15.JPGIMG_0939.JPG.7b54d18d1cc4b8eedc43d14926ca14e7.JPG
Accepted file types gif, jpeg, jpe, jpg, png · Max total size 9.77MB

 

IMG_0937.JPG

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I finally got the pictures loaded.  It didn't like the ZIP file I was using and had to reload them in a normal file.    Regarding the price on the rechroming, I will check with my chrome company today and get a price as if I was someone out of state.  they have done lots of work for me and I have known them for 20 years.  I don't know if I was getting a special price because I knew the owners father or if  all there work is cheaper then you guys may be paying throughout the US.  I'm here in San Antonio, Texas so I will check and post his normal price for the handles.  I have lots of work done there in the past and always reasonable and extremely good work.  I'll let you know!

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Thanks Mike and Jpage .  I think you guys are right on.   I looked it over pretty closely and I believe those "punch dimples" are the key.  Although it looks in the picture like  it might have a set screw that's not the case.   Sure wish it was!   I went back to JPage's post  and some of the others that posted previously and they have used that term dimple before.  I think the handle on JPages 36 should be the same.  So I will need a dremmel to cut out those dimples which will allow me to slide the whole collar off.  Must remember to mark the square shaft and mark it where the collar rests over it.  My biggest concern would be marking the shaft so that when I drill the hole through the square shaft and insert a nail or set screw, that the collar will not slide on the square shaft because of the long groove created when I cut out those dimples.   Once I drilled and inserted the new pin, i'm wondering about filling that groove with JB Weld so that both the pin and the collar are locked together with the JB Weld.  I think Jpage has done this procedure previously.   Am I on the right track with my concern about securing the collar to the square shaft or am I off track???   Originally I thought the pin would be drilled through the square shaft directly next to the top of the collar which would prevnt it from sliding on the shaft.  What do you guys think???    Also, once I remove that collar which is about 3/4" long, round on one end and has a square opening on the other end,   will that free up the escutcheon to be removed or will there be other step(s).  thanks for all your help guys!   Mark

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I don't think I would try to cut the dimple out, it might be better to use a slightly larger drill bit and just drill it away. The ring at the end of the sleeve has me puzzled. It might be the main keeper. It's hard to see, but the shaft may be swedged at the corners to retain that ring. If that's the case, it might be possible just to relieve the swedged part to release the sleeve. As mentioned before, you might want to contact the Handleman and ask his advice.

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