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Exhaust pipe Question..??


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Hi everybody.. It is me again.... trying to figure out how to get this 1930 Franklin back on the road as my daily driver... but not really concerned about having it be all original....  I read somewhere, in one of the Airman news back issues, that someone put a straight exhaust pipe, without a muffler on their 145 series sedan.. and it sounded good and worked fine......  Now as I work on this Franklin, I bought... I see that the exhaust from the Flange up by the carb heater to the muffler is 2" threaded pipe (with two elbows) and after the (burned out) muffler it is that flexible stainless tail pipe....  I have taken  all of this off, and am thinking of having a muffler shop, build a 2" pipe for me that has the same bends.... but no muffler.... just straight out the back... about 10 ft long after the second bend by the master cylinder....... My question is..... is the muffler necessary to create some back pressure for the exhaust system..?  and would the long straight pipe,  keep cool air from getting to the hot engine, once the engine is shut off....???   Has anybody that you know, of run a straight exhaust like mentioned above..?    with what results..? 

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Someone in club has reproduced the header pipes - keep asking (when you see an original there is no going to a muffler shop done one) - Also they are wrapped (at least the originals I have seen).

 

You should also be able to find a nice reproduction muffler

 

As to the tailpipe - Franklin narrowed it down and if you go say 2" out the exhaust you should pick up some horsepower. 

 

Perhaps Paul Fitzpatrick has some better advise as to where to find parts. 

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Engine pipe to the muffler was 2-1/2 inch diameter. The tail pipe was 1-3/4. No flex pipe used for the exhaust, just the heater system. The exhaust pipes can all be bent up, and exhaust gas heater mounting flange welded on by any competent muffler shop. Or buy the pipes from the Club's Parts Project on their website. Yes, the 2 inch tail pipe helps, but then it gets tricky using the original tailpipe mounting brackets and clamps.

 

If you like your Franklin sounding like a modified 60's muscle car with burned-out Cherry Bomb glass-pack mufflers, then just use the straight pipe. If you want it to sound like it should, then get your muffler shop to use a muffler that matches the Franklin drawing on the website.  All you need for all the exhaust system measurements is in the drawing files in the Members Only section of the Club website. They are found by using the numbers in the parts books - downloadable free copies also available there. FYI, the Franklin part number is the actual drawing's number.

 

I used to get the mufflers made by Kepich Exhaust when they were in Florida,. They had the correct measurements to make up Franklin mufflers.  Then, I'd have the pipes made and fitted locally so that I know they clear as they should and fit all the brackets.  

 

Walden's lists Franklin exhaust systems, too. http://waldronexhaust.com/cart/index.php?cPath=61_38

 

Paul

Edited by PFitz (see edit history)
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If you run a straight pipe straight out the back with out going over the rear end properly your going to have some not so good problems. The club makes and sells new stainless exhaust pipes and mufflers.

 

Bill

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  • 2 weeks later...

Thank you PFitz.... For this link...  http://waldronexhaust.com/cart/index.php?cPath=61_38    I did order from them the exhaust pipe and tail pipe.. but had them make the tailpipe section in 2" instead of the 1 3/4" stock..... giving me a little better breathing....  I don't want it loud.... I want to hear the subtle engine sounds, so that I can listen to what it has to tell me...... about It's needs and overall running condition.....

 
 
 
 
 

1924-33 Franklin 6 & 12 cyl All Aluminized Single Exhaust

Starting at: $392.00

Single exhaust system includes crossover pipe, exhaust pipe, muffler and tailpipe.

Photo depicted is of a 1933 Franklin.

For systems requiring pipes 2" and up, we use 14 gauge aluminized steel tubing. For pipes less than 2" we use 16 gauge aluminized steel tubing. Mufflers are also constructed of aluminized steel, for longer life.

Our exhaust systems are made to order. For our current lead time, please refer to our home page.

For orders shipping within the 48 USA contiguous states, the shipping charges will calculate correctly. For orders shipping outside the 48 USA contiguous states, please contact us at waldron@waldronexhaust.com to get accurate shipping charges.

 

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SB,

You can still use the original muffler and tailpipe mounting brackets on the chassis if you get new exhaust pipe clamps and instead of using them with the "U" shaped bolts as they are, put several nuts on the threaded ends to protect the threads and bend the ends in slightly and  then parallel, around a piece of two inch pipe so that the threaded ends of the u-bolts line up with the holes for the original 1-3/4 pipe mounting brackets.  

 

I use 2-1/4 or 2-1/2 inch "light duty" clamps (made from thinner, easier to bend bar stock) so that the u-bolts are plenty long enough to wrap around the 2 inch pipe and bend in to line up with the 1-3/4 holes of the mounting brackets. Then just slip the u-bolts on  the pipe and slide them into position before installing the pipe.

 

Paul

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