Brooklyn Beer

1932 (31) PA got here, and the sorting out BEGINS

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This was a rebuild on a NOS carb done by a person with a lot of experience (not me) in these carbs.  All the parts you mention are new. I will pull carb off again and check the needle (new).  It is not pouring gas out but dripping out at a good rate.

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Benefits of AACA Membership.

Quote "It is dripping just when turning over and not at RPM and worse when it fires over."

 

When the engine is turning over, vacuum should prevent the drip. When it fires over, even more so. Would suggest a compression test. Guessing you have a sticking intake valve. There still may be something wrong with the carb; but these symptoms are telling you something else is wrong.

 

Jon.

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Car ran and drove good prior to changing the carb out with none of the issues I am seeing now.  Started right up and idled down when at operating temp. Just some lack of power when climbing hills due to vacuum leaks on the acc pump connection.  The drips I see are after turning over when I walk around to the side of the car.  I have not tossed on a remote starter switch yet.  That was the plan today BUT 60 degree's had me installing 2 new storm doors instead.  Grr chores.

Edited by Brooklyn Beer (see edit history)

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Do you have a fuel pressure regulator in the line?

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No I do not.  it is still running the same mechanical pump that had been on it and has not been altered in any manner.

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my car did this until I worked on carb.i replaced float and lowered float level.(float bowl to full or nedle not seating completly.there is something to the vacuum leak.( leaking valves)up draft carbs are going to do this if they are over cranked. fuel has no where to go but on the ground.you should have a pretty strong suction with hand over carb throat while cranking.but yes i would check compression first all four cyl should be equal.

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The bowl vent hole is on motor side and near inlet . make sure it is not pushing out there . Time to someone help hit starter so you can watch for leak . Also use proper PPE and extinguisher .

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Picked up the makings to install a temp pressure gauge today and will see about getting that in. Will hook up a remote starter switch. Remove air cleaner. And move the fire extinguisher closer. Do not have a compression gauge and will get one. What should I be looking at for both fuel pressure and compression numbers? Is there a recommended compression gauge that I can grab off amazon prime.?  Would this fit the bill?

 

https://www.amazon.com/Compression-Automotive-Cylinder-Motorcycle-Snowmobile/dp/B07C78JH65/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?crid=M2FWH8V0F414&keywords=engine+compression+tester&qid=1579558386&sprefix=engine+compression%2Caps%2C291&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEySUVENE5GM1QwUE03JmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMDYwMjM0M1ZBVjhCTDZZRzAyMyZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUExMDI2NDUxMUtOQzY3MjFYV0hWNiZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=

Edited by Brooklyn Beer (see edit history)

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compression # is not that important,all cyl. should be equal  70 lbs.or more would be good.if you have a problem with a valve you will knowit .if avalve is stuck or leaking you could tell this buy just sticking your finger in the spark plug holes and turning over engine. of corse a very small leak would need gauge to detect.make sure you got the manifolds sealing .i don't know fuel pump presser  i think there pretty low like 7 lbs. or so. i have seen people turn the intake manifold around and mount brand new  down draft one barrel carb. and fabracate accelerator linkage . my orig. carb works pretty good but it took quite abit of effort and i still have a pretty black tail pipe.

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I have a fuel regulator on my '31 DB and it is set at 2 1/2 lbs.

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I have been running with the mechanical fuel pump for 49 years.  I think I rebuilt the pump once because of low pressure.  I don't see how it could be  too much pressure. Lots of PA's running with that mechanical pump and no regulator. Also, I think my compression is about 50 psi .  If it was running with the old carb,why would a sticking valve be suspect now.   How many miles on the car?

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Mileage is unknown. But it is a well cared for car with no rust repair. Cold rain today but a mid 60's weekend coming up. Have a fuel pressure gauge to toss in just to see. 

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OK, tomorrow first thing going to dig into the car as today was just too nice to work and instead exercised everyone in the 68 degree temps.  I have a question

 

When I first attempted to fire things up after the carb change I only adjusted the idle mixture as described. It seemed mighty rich in the 20 seconds it ran. Is there any other adjustment needed on the ACC pump perhaps? Or perhaps I just flooded it and it was running bad burning off? Float is set and gas is not pouring out. It just drips out if it doesn't fire over.

 

Will see if I can get her to run with the aid of the remote starter switch and being next to the carb to work the throttle and choke. Just a simple jump over from negative battery side to starter correct ?

 

I have a regulator here and pressure gauge just in case it I need to move forward in that department. Going to remove air cleaner prior to attempting restart.

 

 

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my idle mixture screw is like only 3/4 turn from close or less.there is a acc. pump screw. it also does not need to be opened more than one turn or even leave it closed until you get it running . its the small  screw just below acc. pump body.idle mix screw is the big brass one.also remember you will only have vacuum when throttle plate is closed.(very low idel}

you cant use remote starter.it will only turn start motor.bendex is ingaged manually by foot control.to check timing remove pipe plug on cyl. head at rear cly drop straight coat hanger wire 10- 12 inch long down hole.rotate engine over by fan blade with spark plugs out until wire is pushed up to top dead center remove distributor cap roator should be pointing at number one cyl. wire post.if not loosen clamp bolt and rotate.  a mark on dist. housing be for you remove dist. cap will help locate rotor contact . also I.D. tag on dist.should be facing you.after that in all in order with engine running you can  tweek the timming with vacuum gauge to peak vacuum or (sweet spot).wile your plugs are out clean them with wire brush and solvent or replace them . check points .020.remember fuel filter . that tank is probaly filthy.

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OK, so this morning I did has been suggested and set the idle mixture by screwing it all the way in then backing out 3/4 of a turn. Backed off the idle screw itself so only foot throttle was controlling things.  55 degree garage. Car has sat since last saturday. No choke. Pumped gas twice and it fired instantly. Timing was fine prior to only removing and replacing the carb. Nothing was fiddled with. But oh the blue cloud of a rich running motor. I kept RPM's up some until the blue cloud of running way rich got worse, say 35-40 seconds and shut it down. Puddle of gas.  So something is overloading the needle valve me thinks. Going to let cool some and install the regulator I have first before removing carb and checking float and needle valve. Already checked float once but not the  needle valve. Will set at 2.5 pnds and see what happens there first. This is a rebuilt carb by a quality rebuilder. All new parts. Was a great carb before rebuild. Replaced the wrong RJH with the correct DRT-08

Edited by Brooklyn Beer (see edit history)

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Thinking it has to be the needle valve.  Will get off a little later after yard work. Yeah, already mowing the lawn down here. near 70.

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OK, disconnected accel pump and am seeing no difference in the amount of fuel dripping out when it was to run. It will run but can tell it is loading up by the blue cloud. I shut it down after 15 seconds but is still dripping a lot of gas when running

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Yes and no reply from builder so am going to pull it off today.  Does anyone know of the correct rebuild kit for DRT-08.  Here is what was used. If it is correct then I need to start looking to see any washers were omitted as when turning over and running it is sucking way too much up. I have never worked on a carb like this but figure I might as well learn now.  Just want to be sure the correct kit was used before I order a spare.  Looking at paperwork from Broker-len there is not many places that fuel can get sucked through unmetered.

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OK.  carb off.  Bowl and float off.  Needle valve and seat new.  Needle is rubber tipped.  I noticed throttle shutter is not 100%$ closed when throttle lever is all the way closed.   Going to take off top assembly and look at guts.  If needle valve is seating where else would too much gas be getting pulled through ?

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Another observation after removing top assembly. Venturi choke assembly needs pushed down to fully seat even with choke spring installed.

 

Unscrewed ball check housing screw and see nothing behind that screw.  

 

Low speed jet tube is not attached to the screw by any means. It mentions a soldered "sir tight" seal in the casting.  Is this tube soldered to the screw then ? 

 

Stand pipe assembly (for choke venturi) has number "153" stamped into it followed by some symbol with a number 12 opposite side of the 153.  There is no gasket for this underneath after unscrewing.

 

Accel pump inner spring is new as is gasket

 

Here is the jet size   48   13S ?

20200202_113555.jpg

Edited by Brooklyn Beer (see edit history)

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