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1932 (31) PA got here, and the sorting out BEGINS


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2 hours ago, Brooklyn Beer said:

The dome light switch is shot and I see no way to take it apart.  Looks to be one piece contained with the dome insert itself.  Anyone making repo's? Quite an odd switch and dome light unit all in one.

Well, it may be like this 1931 Dodge Brothers unit. There are slots on the sides & ends and it probably slides a little to come off of the pins. Worth a try....

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Edited by keiser31 (see edit history)
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It is a pull off type cover. The switch itself that is attached to the insert part and contains the socket is shot.  Power to the socket. Good ground. New bulb. No power through the switch at the dome light to the socket and I do not see anyway to take the switch out of the dome light itself.

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Be very careful with that dome light.  Mine shorted out years ago but  I caught it just in time.  I never tried to fix it . I did not want to chance it happening again.  There is a lot of flammable material (padding, headliner) in that roof area and the chicken wire which could be a nice conductor.

There have been a few posts of various makes of dome light shorting problems.

Just a thought

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By the way.  That chicken wire I referred to was in the roof to act as a radio antenna.  The Plymouth ( and possible other Chrysler products) closed cars had a wire attached to the chicken wire and it ran down the inside passenger side of the cowl behind the interior trim to be attached to a radio.

Edited by 31plymouth
typo (see edit history)
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  • 2 weeks later...

Well the rebuilt DRT-08 showed up this evening after a total rebuild from Bob Clark to get things up to snuff. So tomorrow I am going to pull off the manifolds and change that gasket and see about getting the carb installed and the exhaust flange connection fixed.

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Here are a couple comparisons of the old incorrect carb and the new correct carb.  Will be a couple more days till I get it installed as I seem to have contracted the crud.  But I did get the new manifold gasket installed. This was more then shot. I trued and polished up the manifold ports as best as possible and used a skim coat of permatex ultra copper on them before mating to the gasket. Same with the gasket to block. Heard good stuff about it (700 degrees) so lets see how it works. The new gasket though was extra thick and extra crushable with equally good reviews. twice as thick as the one I took off that failed in more places then worked. The lack of any flange on the exhaust pipe though has me bummed. Guess i will just contact a muffler shop to see if they can make me a 1 1/2 inch flanged adapter piece with a swedged end to act like a coupler. Might have to do a "Rube Goldberg" repair with some muffler tape as a temporary fix just to get it running.

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Rand Broadstreet came through on the old stock carb and Bob Clark did the rebuild.  Just happened to get lucky this one was available.  It really is a work of art and can't wait too hear the old girl fire up and see what she will do. Comparing to the wrong carb the differences are night and day.

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about the exhaust flange.it's been awhile back but i think I clamped the pipe in the cast mounting flange and carefully hammered the edge  of the pipe down into flange groove.can't remember if a torch was needed or i did it cold. i did have new pipe held in bench vice.then i used the heavy metal reinforced exhaust gasket mat. and cut gasket to fit  i also used the same matieral for the manifolds . the first time i used the store bought gaskets i could'nt get good seal.i had machine shop surface  manifold and used home made gaskets.the center section of manifold was badly burned. so when it was resurfaced a thicker gasket material in the center was nessary . ok i just remembered . my muffler shop could not make a tight enough lip on pipe to fit the cast moumting flange.( it was a goofy fit ) so i cut it off and tamped it over just enough to hold in the flange and seal to the gasket.

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Thanks , me and buddy did them today . First time was two year ago for mine . We used an old crusty auction machine he been storing . Your shop probably has a machine capable . But operator who doesn't know how . Wish I remembered my pic phone to show . We had to do two practice ones . You have to swag out to 1-1/2" id , the use pointed cone to start lip . This being part taking a little practice . Then flip cone over to flat side and finish ,without splitting or over rolling .

  Then added a kick to match what was on my engine . That angle get tube heading straight down to hole in gravel pan .

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Well after a set back thanks to the flu I grabbed a couple parts from the garage to work on inside. I re-torqued the manifold bolts as well to be sure after they now sat for a week.  Will do again after she runs up to temp which will hopefully be very soon this weekend. So today I brought in the air cleaner to see about getting it back to where it should be to work with the DRT-08. It seems they had put in 3 different shims inside it to fit the wrong carb throat intake and tac welded it. These shims all have a number 64 stamped in them and look like some over the counter part.  Must have been in a long time. Love undoing wrong crap. The more I repair the "make do" repairs from decades past on the fuel supply side the more things I see that could be causing the lack of power issue I felt on hills.  Thanks to Tom and his exhaust piece maybe I can get her back together for our near 70 degree Sunday coming up !

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Well here we are.  Everything ready to go once I get the exhaust tied back up.  Leaving vacuum advance off for now. Made a new hand throttle cable as well. After things get running well I start to replace the fuel lines back to steel.  What size are they so I can get a roll of tubing ?

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They are 1/4" from tank to front in steel . Then change to copper before going in engine bay . At least thats what was on mine . I used two pieces of brake line to get to front and changed to copper by wheel well . You may want to check you BOI to see if fuel pump should be tuned on angle . Would effect running ,just looks .

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  • 2 weeks later...

OK, was able too combine two parts of the exhaust adapters with a little welding and finished up getting everything put back together.  Started cranking and after the bowl to the carb filled it fired over but immediately I saw that gas was dripping from the air inlet for the air cleaner. Cannot get a hold of Bob Clark to see if he adjusted the float level or not so am guessing I will have to remove it and start there.  It drips with no choke and no throttle. I have the crappy one I removed to do a trial run and see if I can figure it out.  Bob did send a chart on what the float level should be just no instructions on how to do it.  DRT-08

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12 minutes ago, Brooklyn Beer said:

OK, was able too combine two parts of the exhaust adapters with a little welding and finished up getting everything put back together.  Started cranking and after the bowl to the carb filled it fired over but immediately I saw that gas was dripping from the air inlet for the air cleaner. Cannot get a hold of Bob Clark to see if he adjusted the float level or not so am guessing I will have to remove it and start there.  It drips with no choke and no throttle. I have the crappy one I removed to do a trial run and see if I can figure it out.  Bob did send a chart on what the float level should be just no instructions on how to do it.  DRT-08

This?

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