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Restoration of Victory Six sports roadster.


Mattml430
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  • 3 weeks later...

My engine is of to the engineers tomorrow to get bored and new hardened valve seats. It will get new pistons and valves. Going . 030”oversize. Will have it back in a few weeks if all goes well so it might be a nice little job to do over the Christmas holidays. Hopefully the border opens and my brother can come down and give me a hand. Proper dodgey brothers there. 
I think I’ll get the block decked as minimal as possible as well as the head. Give them a nice new surface. 
Got a box of bits from Tom & Cindy at Myers today. New head bolts , plugs , orange radiator hose,distributor cap and rotor  and a heap of other bits and pieces. They are so good to deal with and make it easy. 

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Edited by Mattml430 (see edit history)
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Nice!  Definitely get the block and head skimmed (or at least checked) - it’s not easy to do the block later:)

 

have you thought about taking a little more off to give a bit more compression?  Not sure how much difference it makes on the 6s but am sure it would help (and they were very low as standard)?  Perhaps someone out there has tried it and knows what works well.

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12 minutes ago, RichBad said:

Nice!  Definitely get the block and head skimmed (or at least checked) - it’s not easy to do the block later:)

 

have you thought about taking a little more off to give a bit more compression?  Not sure how much difference it makes on the 6s but am sure it would help (and they were very low as standard)?  Perhaps someone out there has tried it and knows what works well.

Yes mate we have raised the piston height by 1.5mm. Pete is helping me with all the engine mods for the victory. He gets them going pretty well. 

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Machined my flywheel down today after dropping the block of for machining. 
Took just under 3kg off it. 12.5% of its weight, the theory behind it is to help the engine slow to make gear changes smoother. This is from 2 very experienced fellas with the dodge 6 engine so I’m pretty convinced it will work. Also cleaned up the clutch face which had a bit of runout. 

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25 minutes ago, aunty norm said:

Matt, there are arguments either way and you not convince  everyone. But it's your motor!  I personal think a little of the flywheel is a good thing, but it's a fine line.  Can't  wait  to  see it on the road!

It will be definitely interesting to see how it goes. Hopefully will have the engine back in a few weeks. 

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Made a mess of re assembling my water pump but have corrected it with the help of my good friends on here. 
 

Made a start today rebuilding my starter today. It’s in a pretty sorry state. I completely disassembled it and cleaned it all up. I managed to find a pull starter button on eBay a while ago and it’s in great condition. I have to make all new parts for that as it was just the diecast shell. Also found a brand new Bendix spring on gumtree that is identical. The lady gave me a spare second hand one also with the new one. Got 2 for about $15. 
 

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Edited by Mattml430 (see edit history)
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I was lucky enough to be able to borrow a starter switch of Pete to copy all the parts. I’m going to build all the internals tomorrow which will be a little tricky but that’s part of it all. I used an old dipper switch for my button. I dug into the old coin collection for some round copper coins to use for the contacts. I think they will work quite well. Only cost me a penny. 😁

tried to find one from 1929 but was unable to. Might be a hard to get one. 
And yes I will be removing the Phillips head for a slotted screw it’s just there for assembly purposes. 

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Edited by Mattml430 (see edit history)
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Mat, once again that starter looks great. If I may ask ,Do you happen to have a picture of your bendix spring? Ever since I’ve had my 28 the starter seems to have a harsh “clunk” when engaging. It might be perfectly normal but seems a bit harsh. It appears they made different strength springs and I’m thinking if I have one that’s weak it could cause this?   Thanks

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11 hours ago, Kenendcindyc said:

Mat, once again that starter looks great. If I may ask ,Do you happen to have a picture of your bendix spring? Ever since I’ve had my 28 the starter seems to have a harsh “clunk” when engaging. It might be perfectly normal but seems a bit harsh. It appears they made different strength springs and I’m thinking if I have one that’s weak it could cause this?   Thanks

Thanks.
This is the brand new one. 

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5 minutes ago, Kenendcindyc said:

Ahhhhh Matt, I hate to say it but,I didn’t notice it till I saw the box but I’m 90% sure you need a right hand spring. 

You’d be a100% right haha. 
I didn’t even know there was a left and right. Thanks. 
lucky the old one is ok. 
Lots to learn with these old girls. 

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Hay Matt, 

I was just looking at some of the pics from this topic. I’ve noticed in the pic with your beautifully smooth and painted engine block that the main bearing cap studs appear to have been removed. How did you get them to unscrew from the block? Mine appear to be pined  in to prevent them from turning? 

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Matt, will be really interested in the switch rebuild. Did mine some years ago and can't really remember exactly what I did. I have only just started using it and it sometimes the switch does not work. I suspect I have not got the length of the shaft quite right.

John

 

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1 hour ago, Bullfrog_eng said:

Matt, will be really interested in the switch rebuild. Did mine some years ago and can't really remember exactly what I did. I have only just started using it and it sometimes the switch does not work. I suspect I have not got the length of the shaft quite right.

John

 

After a bit of adjustment of my coins to get them the correct height it seems to be working a treat. 
Bench tested a dozen or so times all good. They have a lot of kick the old starters. 
I had to turn up a few insulating bushes for all my bits. Definitely a fiddley job and my way is probably not the norm. 
I used some devcon on the inside of my casting because some numb nut dropped it and cracked it. I think I’ll finish that bloke up this afternoon 😁

It went back together quite well and won’t break now. 
Ready for paint now so I might have to keep the numb nut on for a bit longer. 😂

 

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Edited by Mattml430 (see edit history)
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2 hours ago, nearchoclatetown said:

Some days you eat the peanuts, other days you eat the shells. I think the original housings were pot metal. The ones being repoped are aluminum.

This one was pot metal. It’s a shame it cracked but shit happens. 

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I received a text message last night that my engine block is all finished and ready to pick up. My flywheel and pressure plate is also ready and has been balanced. He tells me it’s within 1.87 grams. The weight of a business card apparently. So I think that’s close enough. 
pretty excited!! 

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Picked up my engine from the machine shop today and very happy with the results. They did a great job on the whole engine. 
Fitted hardened seats and new valves. Also did all the guides. 
They also took a fraction off the head and deck. 
 

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8 hours ago, Ian_Greenlaw said:

Those wheel centres look stunning......great job mate. Starter motor rebuild too looks fantastic.

Keep the photos coming !

Thanks Ian , Steve in Queensland is rolling me up some new rims so as soon as he gets time to do them he’ll send them down and I’ll get them painted too. 

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2 hours ago, Mattml430 said:

Thanks Ron just waiting now on a gasket kit for the engine and I can start the assembly process. 

 

2 hours ago, Mattml430 said:

Thanks Ron just waiting now on a gasket kit for the engine and I can start the assembly process. 

I had better get my ring into gear or you will have yours finished before me 

 

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